[capoz77]

Before :eekster:




The next bit I don't understand the SC video shows a spanner on the hex section and pliers loosening the end off where the knurled metal is, tried this over and over and just ended up burring the end of the gun ??

The only part I could get off is this





Have they changed the design again so the knurled cylinder doesnt seperate form the hex nut?




How much grease should you put in? the video just shows a few pumps, I waited till it overspilled out the edges and flowed clean blue






Took me a while to get the grease actually flowing through the gun, ended up having to squeeze the tube while pumping the handle. Not entirely sure of the purpose of loosening the end then tightening once connected to the bike, and loosening once finished?

Overall a very satisfying chore though!

 

[capoz77]

I wonder have they changed the design so the knurled part doesnt come away from the hex?

video showing it splitting...
Grease Gun | Santa Cruz Bicycles


It fitted no problem and twisted off no problem as per this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3o0SQP-xGE

 

[Gman086]

My guess is they are being assembled in an area of high ocean humidity and they are rusting together because they definitely do NOT come apart with normal force (first one I had to cut off with a dremel tool before Willie sent me another). But yeah that nozzle is supposed to separate from that nut! There's a thread about how lame these grease guns are...

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[capoz77]

My guess is they are being assembled in an area of high ocean humidity and they are rusting together because they definitely do NOT come apart with normal force (first one I had to cut off with a dremel tool before Willie sent me another). But yeah that nozzle is supposed to separate from that nut! There's a thread about how lame these grease guns are...

Have FUN!

G MAN

In the end took a rubber glove to it, stopped any more metal getting trashed on the end of the nozzle and gave it the force needed along with a long spanner for leverage







Theres a spring in this part of the assembly which when unscrewed take the pressure off the zerk clamp at the end of the gun, so well worth persevering with.

 

[Eric Peden]

Good question on the amount of grease?? I need to grease my new bike but don't want to pump too much and have it collect dirt.

 

[hillharman]

I usually grease and then disassemble to clean.

 

[sooner518]

i usually disassemble the link itself, clean it up, then put the axles back in the link and pump grease thru, then reassemble.

for some reason, when the bike is all put together, I cant get grease to flow, but when the link is off the bike, I can.

and i agree on trying to get that stupid tip to unscrew. it is very difficult. I tried many times and never got it, but finally managed to loosen and unscrew a few months ago. its very difficult as the guns are not real high quality.

 

[Gman086]

You need to loosen the link shafts in order to pump grease thru. Then I tighten back up and clean out excess grease as best I can. The whole purpose of the zerks is that you don't need to take the whole thing apart!

I have a question on those shaft torque values... SC's values haven't been that accurate in the past (remember torquing off a shock mount bolt on my BLT because SC's stated value was way too high) and they call for 35 in/lbs but a video on Pinkbike says just tighten to that of what you would a headset. I don't know of anyone who would tighten a headset to 35 in/lbs! More like 10-15 in/lbs. Which is it? What are you all tightening to?

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[sooner518]

You need to loosen the link shafts in order to pump grease thru. Then I tighten back up and clean out excess grease as best I can. The whole purpose of the zerks is that you don't need to take the whole thing apart!

I have a question on those shaft torque values... SC's values haven't been that accurate in the past (remember torquing off a shock mount bolt on my BLT because SC's stated value was way too high) and they call for 35 in/lbs but a video on Pinkbike says just tighten to that of what you would a headset. I don't know of anyone who would tighten a headset to 35 in/lbs! More like 10-15 in/lbs. Which is it? What are you all tightening to?

Have FUN!

G MAN

Yea, I guess that would work too. ive gotten pretty quick with taking the link off, cleaning it up and re-greasing. i can do ti in about 10 minutes. and it gives me a chance to inspect the axles and see that the bearings are still spinning smoothly.

but ill try loosening it up and pumping next time.

 

[vfrrider]

I just got my bike a couple of weeks ago and it's been too cold to ride on the trail but ive taken it around the block a couple of times...have you guys find that brand new bikes need some grease, or do they lube them up nice and good from the factory?

 

[Gman086]

Mine was greased but the shafts and bolts were definitely not tightened at the recommended values which further has me guessing that SC's published torque values are wrong (again - too high).

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[Rhialto]

I just removed both upper and lower links from my Blur LT and re-greased all the bearings. I was following the SC instructions and when I tightened the axles to 35 in-lbs, there was a lot of rotational resistance in the linkages. Basically I tightened the axle to a point where I met with some resistance to further tightening and backed it off a tiny bit. This allowed the linkages to rotate freely, well almost freely - there was still some slight rotational resistance but I don't think I am anywhere near 35 in-lbs. And I didn't want to go any looser as I felt this might allow for side-to-side movement.

 

[hillharman]

I just removed both upper and lower links from my Blur LT and re-greased all the bearings. I was following the SC instructions and when I tightened the axles to 35 in-lbs, there was a lot of rotational resistance in the linkages. Basically I tightened the axle to a point where I met with some resistance to further tightening and backed it off a tiny bit. This allowed the linkages to rotate freely, well almost freely - there was still some slight rotational resistance but I don't think I am anywhere near 35 in-lbs. And I didn't want to go any looser as I felt this might allow for side-to-side movement.

You did it exactly right. Tight enough to remove play and no tighter.

 

[capoz77]

Good question on the amount of grease?? I need to grease my new bike but don't want to pump too much and have it collect dirt.

I'm going to keep pumping it in until the old stuff spills out, as after only a few weeks of muddy wet riding the old stuff was rather filthy and gritty! The excess new grease can be wiped off easy enough

I usually grease and then disassemble to clean.

i usually disassemble the link itself, clean it up, then put the axles back in the link and pump grease thru, then reassemble.

for some reason, when the bike is all put together, I cant get grease to flow, but when the link is off the bike, I can.

and i agree on trying to get that stupid tip to unscrew. it is very difficult. I tried many times and never got it, but finally managed to loosen and unscrew a few months ago. its very difficult as the guns are not real high quality.

You need to loosen the link shafts in order to pump grease thru. Then I tighten back up and clean out excess grease as best I can. The whole purpose of the zerks is that you don't need to take the whole thing apart!

G MAN

Don't fancy taking it all apart, coming from a single pivot Heckler which needed zero maintenance, I want VPP to be faff free so i'll just regrease every few months through the ports and once a season check the bearing tightness.

Yea, I guess that would work too. ive gotten pretty quick with taking the link off, cleaning it up and re-greasing. i can do ti in about 10 minutes. and it gives me a chance to inspect the axles and see that the bearings are still spinning smoothly.

but ill try loosening it up and pumping next time.

Once your gun is pumping the grease well you shouldn't have to loosen anything on the pivot?

I just got my bike a couple of weeks ago and it's been too cold to ride on the trail but ive taken it around the block a couple of times...have you guys find that brand new bikes need some grease, or do they lube them up nice and good from the factory?

There seemed to be ample in my Blur LT2.3, but worth doing just to learn the ropes as such.

I just removed both upper and lower links from my Blur LT and re-greased all the bearings. I was following the SC instructions and when I tightened the axles to 35 in-lbs, there was a lot of rotational resistance in the linkages. Basically I tightened the axle to a point where I met with some resistance to further tightening and backed it off a tiny bit. This allowed the linkages to rotate freely, well almost freely - there was still some slight rotational resistance but I don't think I am anywhere near 35 in-lbs. And I didn't want to go any looser as I felt this might allow for side-to-side movement.

Be good to know the proper torque settings as everyone seems to disagree with this 35 in- lbs stated by SC

 

[capoz77]

Picked up the Hilka grease gun and what a difference in quality and grease flow VS the Santa Cruz MKII.

Plenty of attachments to lengthen the hose to boot.



The hex and the nozzle to loosen the nipple jaw unscrewed by fingertip, no vice required

 

[happyriding]

I have a question on those shaft torque values... SC's values haven't been that accurate in the past (remember torquing off a shock mount bolt on my BLT because SC's stated value was way too high) and they call for 35 in/lbs but a video on Pinkbike says just tighten to that of what you would a headset. I don't know of anyone who would tighten a headset to 35 in/lbs! More like 10-15 in/lbs. Which is it? What are you all tightening to?

Have FUN!

G MAN

35 in-lbs is just under 3 ft-lbs, and is about 4 Nm. That isn't much, but it is probably more than you will use to tighten a headset.

When I replaced my warrantied rear triangle on a Blur LT2, I tightened to 3 ft-lbs, and (without the rear wheel mounted) the rear pivot action felt like it was binding, so I didn't know what to do. I decided to back off the torque until the rear seemed to pivot easily. But I didn't know if that would create side to side play, so I compromised and tightened the bolts a little tighter.

According to pinkbike you should recheck the pivot bolts after a month(?) or so of use on a new bike. At that point, I tightened to the full 3 ft-lbs, and I can't feel any binding when I ride my bike--the rear pivot feels smooth when I bounce up and down on the pedals.

Torque standards like "hand tight" mentioned in the pinkbike video are ridiculous. I think you should torque to the specs, and if you snap a bolt or wear out the bearings then that's on the manufacturer.

 

[happyriding]

Good question on the amount of grease?? I need to grease my new bike but don't want to pump too much and have it collect dirt.

Pump till you see clean grease coming out the sides of the pivot. Them wipe off the grease the best you can. Don't be meticulous at that point because after you ride, the pivots will continue to weep grease. The grease is going to collect dirt. If you don't want that, then you'll have to disassemble and grease by hand.