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NICE KID...NICE
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Hey Guys

I am looking for some info on lowering a Solo Air totem. I cant see to find any creditable info/procedures on it. Is it as easy as just adding spacers? Are they the "Rockshox all spacers" or do the come with the totem. I would like to set one at 150mm 160mm ideally. Any info you can provide is greatly appreciated. Thanks...



Wook
 

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Chillin the Most
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I used PVC pipe cut to 20mm, giving me 160mm. You can get the instructions from the RS website, it's the same procedure for any solo air fork (reba, revelation, etc). Basically the spacer gets installed on the Solo Air side, I believe between the bottom out bumper and air piston. I just did mine recently, it was a snap.

Here is a pic to show orientation of spacer...
 

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biking is fun
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here you go, i wrote this out on the intense forum but copy and paste works amazing.

ok here we go

step 1
so first off you have to get the lowers off. to do this clamp your fork to a work stand by the steer tube. then let all of the air out (very important). then use a 24mm wrench to take the air valve top cap off. then you remove the rebound knob on the right side (just pull it out) then loosen the hex bolt that it was in. also loosen the hex bolt on the other leg. when they are almost all the way out tap them with a rubber mallet. you will feel the lowers slide come down a little. when they feel free then remove the bolts on both sides and get ready for all the oil to come out on the ground (put a bucket or something to catch it. slide the lowers off and set them aside.

step 2
look up in the left side (solo air side) and you will see a C clip. remove this and then pull out the internals. here is a diagram that illustrates what should come out when you pull it all out
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/...ev C_web.pdf
its on page 66. sorry it honestly took me 1 hour to try and figure out how to cut an image from adobe and i could not figure it out.

step 3
now that you have the rod with all the parts on it out you want to take some spacers and put them between part 15 and 14. 15 is just the cap with an oring on it. part 14 is the mushroom shaped rubber stopper and the oring cap. so in other words the part directly under 15 is a rubber top out bumper that is kind of mushroom shaped. put the spacers right inbetween them.
now for spacers you can make one or use totem preload spacers. the only important part is you don't use a skinny one because that will make the topout bumper squish to the side or something and it might not lower the fork. so don't use the rock shox all mountain spacers. i used the totem preload spacers. The amount of spacers you use will determine how much it lowers. it will lower it exactly the same amount.

step 4
put everything back together. this involves putting everything back in the way you found them, put the C clip back in and then put the lowers back on and the top cap back on. then turn the fork upside down and using a small funnel put new oil back in the lowers by putting the funnel in where the hex bolts go in. i believe its 30cc's 15wt oil in each leg but check sram.com to find out for sure. keep it upside down, put the hex bolts back in and then screw them in. some oil might come out but thats fine.

wipe off the extra oil and put the correct air back in and enjoy.

wow that was a long description.
between this description and the diagram im sure you can figure it out.

let me know how it goes and if you have anymore questions.
 

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Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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You can do it without pulling the lowers, FYI. It's easier if you have the fork off the bike and somewhere flat, but I've messed with it on the bike - wheel and brake caliper removed so as not to get oil on them. Have it on some rags/plastic, because you'll lose a bit of oil. Not a ton on the air spring side, but enough to make a mess and screw with your brake if you get it on there.

1. let the air out
2. undo top cap
3. undo bottom bolt most, but not all the way
4. tap with a rubber mallet, or something gently to unset the bottom of the air spring shaft from its seating in the lowers
5. undo bottom bolt rest of the way and remove
6. compress the fork as much as you can
7. use something like a long 6mm allen to pop the rod up from the bottom of the lowers
8. you should then be able to grab the air spring guts and pull out from the top - careful, it'll spooge out some oil when you do this

This will give you easy access to the bits you need to work on, as per Red5's posted pic.

Space it down however much you like, and reverse the process. Don't forget to add oil to the air spring, and the lowers via the Speed Lube ports. (or the bottom bolt hole, before you have everything seated too firmly to do so. Just make sure to clean it all up nice and good from whatever is on you work surface, and to not mess up any of the o-rings and you'll be good to go.

15wt, 20ml in the lowers and 6ml in the uppers for air spring lubrication.

I've got mine down to 160mm because I found a stupid cheap deal on a Totem Solo Air in good shape for way, way cheaper than any price I was able to find a Lyrik for. It's still decently light, and really freakin' stiff. Very confidence inspiring for this hack rider.
 

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:confused: i see the talas riden around town by many street riders, when they lower it, it runs at such high pressure that you gotta rebuild the seals all the time, lowering a totem for street riding is retarded, for the money get a marz 4x, best for street ripping and jumps by far
 

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Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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EDizzleVR6 said:
:confused: i see the talas riden around town by many street riders, when they lower it, it runs at such high pressure that you gotta rebuild the seals all the time, lowering a totem for street riding is retarded, for the money get a marz 4x, best for street ripping and jumps by far
You're going on the assumption people are buying new forks just for the purpose of lowering. Some are doing it to a fork they already have, and want to run on a different or lower travel frame. I'm guessing the OP already has the Totem, and wants to run it on something lower travel, or wants to steepen his geometry up or something like that.

Why buy a new fork if you already have one that'll work just fine with just a little bit of tweaking? Doing it the short version way takes less than 15 minutes.

Also, you don't have to run stupid high pressures on lowered Solo and Dual Air Rock Shox forks.
 

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check your six
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scrublover said:
You're going on the assumption people are buying new forks just for the purpose of lowering. Some are doing it to a fork they already have, and want to run on a different or lower travel frame. I'm guessing the OP already has the Totem, and wants to run it on something lower travel, or wants to steepen his geometry up or something like that.

Why buy a new fork if you already have one that'll work just fine with just a little bit of tweaking? Doing it the short version way takes less than 15 minutes.

Also, you don't have to run stupid high pressures on lowered Solo and Dual Air Rock Shox forks.
+1 :thumbsup:
 

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check your six
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climbingbubba said:
here you go, i wrote this out on the intense forum but copy and paste works amazing.

*SNIP*

let me know how it goes and if you have anymore questions.
That is a great write-up. You make it sound super easy! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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biking is fun
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scrublover said:
You can do it without pulling the lowers, FYI. It's easier if you have the fork off the bike and somewhere flat, but I've messed with it on the bike - wheel and brake caliper removed so as not to get oil on them. Have it on some rags/plastic, because you'll lose a bit of oil. Not a ton on the air spring side, but enough to make a mess and screw with your brake if you get it on there.

1. let the air out
2. undo top cap
3. undo bottom bolt most, but not all the way
4. tap with a rubber mallet, or something gently to unset the bottom of the air spring shaft from its seating in the lowers
5. undo bottom bolt rest of the way and remove
6. compress the fork as much as you can
7. use something like a long 6mm allen to pop the rod up from the bottom of the lowers
8. you should then be able to grab the air spring guts and pull out from the top - careful, it'll spooge out some oil when you do this

This will give you easy access to the bits you need to work on, as per Red5's posted pic.

Space it down however much you like, and reverse the process. Don't forget to add oil to the air spring, and the lowers via the Speed Lube ports. (or the bottom bolt hole, before you have everything seated too firmly to do so. Just make sure to clean it all up nice and good from whatever is on you work surface, and to not mess up any of the o-rings and you'll be good to go.

15wt, 20ml in the lowers and 6ml in the uppers for air spring lubrication.

I've got mine down to 160mm because I found a stupid cheap deal on a Totem Solo Air in good shape for way, way cheaper than any price I was able to find a Lyrik for. It's still decently light, and really freakin' stiff. Very confidence inspiring for this hack rider.
i did it this way first but the only thing that would worry me is damaging the oring when you are pushing them up through the threads.
the oring is really tight and when it hits the threads you have to push even harder.

this may or may not be a problem if you do it once but if you it a bunch it could thrash the oring.

plus its good to do a good cleaning every once in a while so taking the lowers off couldn't hurt.
 

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Chillin the Most
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SamL3227 said:
why didnt you get a lyric if you wanted a shorter fork?
Because the Totem Solo air is so adjustable and can be had pretty cheap if you look around, that it's worth getting right from the git go.

I bought mine because I currently have an 07 Coiler which runs a 160mm travel fork, however someday I may upgrade to something with more travel. Since I'm going to want a Totem then anyhow, why not get what I want now and modify it to fit my current needs, rather than hassle with selling a Lyrik to buy a Totem later.
 

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questions

So is the performance the same? Does it void the warrantee? I love the 40mm legs, but not looking for a 180 fork. Would it be worth buying for my Tranny BR and lowering to 160?
 

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Chillin the Most
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tmarkos said:
So is the performance the same? Does it void the warrantee? I love the 40mm legs, but not looking for a 180 fork. Would it be worth buying for my Tranny BR and lowering to 160?
Can't see how it would affect warranty, since RS suggests this as a mod for their other forks. As far as I can tell the performance has not changed in my mod'd Totem (now 160mm). I bought mine to run on an 07 Coiler and I think it is totally worth, especially if you plan someday to move up to a bigger ride. :thumbsup:
 

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SamIAm
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RED5 said:
Because the Totem Solo air is so adjustable and can be had pretty cheap if you look around, that it's worth getting right from the git go.

I bought mine because I currently have an 07 Coiler which runs a 160mm travel fork, however someday I may upgrade to something with more travel. Since I'm going to want a Totem then anyhow, why not get what I want now and modify it to fit my current needs, rather than hassle with selling a Lyrik to buy a Totem later.
ok thats a good reason.

that 90mm totem should come with pics of it attached to something!
 
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