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I just finished doing a yearly checkup of my Recluse and I noticed that the lower link is not rotating smoothly on both axles (tested with upper link disconnected). It isn't stuck or sticky like, i.e. a clutch derailler, but it's clearly less smooth than it should be.

This happened even after a thorough clean/inspection/rebuild of the link with fresh new bearings. All bolts are tighten at the right torque, but I'm starting to thin that for my frame and components (different tolerances?) may be the reason.

Should I try something like 10-20% less torque on the bolts?
 

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Did you try backing off the torque to see if it would free up and still not have play? That would be my best advice, as all you want is everything installed with no play and tight enough to not work loose.
 

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Haven't messed with the Intense linkage in quite a while, but have one here to do a service on, so will see just how it is and remind myself, but AFAIR it's collets and I recall SC used to recommend just making them snug enough to take out the play, never an actual torque value.

The idea is to try this ASAP. I'm just a little concerned in using a lower torque.
 

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Well, I just found this out for myself when I puled my friends bike down and found that the perfectly torqued to spec setup had completely eaten ohne of the bearings and felt like crap. Luckily had a spare bearings, removed, cleaned and repacked the rest with fresh grease and reassembled just tight enough to be snug and remove any play, then made sure to torque the collette bolt properly. The difference was so much we ended up having to add well over 30 PSI of air to get just over 30% sag :eek:ut:

i run the link axles just past snug. its well under specified torque, but it's the only way to get them to rotate smoothly.

i ditched the shitty enduro bearings and run Japanese radials (NSK, etc.).
 

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I've struggled with these bearings - curious "Japanese radials" ... care to elaborate? I've had the bearings disintegrate leaving just the outer race stuck in the link ... %[email protected]#$! to get out. Seems like there is enough play that the bearings can't take the side loads. ( that's my total uninformed opinion )
I thought those Enduro bearings were supposed to be good! ( the "max" ones ... right? )
 

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I've struggled with these bearings - curious "Japanese radials" ... care to elaborate? I've had the bearings disintegrate leaving just the outer race stuck in the link ... %[email protected]#$! to get out. Seems like there is enough play that the bearings can't take the side loads. ( that's my total uninformed opinion )
I thought those Enduro bearings were supposed to be good! ( the "max" ones ... right? )
i'm not an expert to be honest. enduro max angular contact should be great in theory, i just haven't had any luck with them.

japanese radial contact (conventional) bearings are arguably built with better materials to tighter tolerances. phil wood sells repackaged japanese bearings and you can get them direct. gotta be careful with some on ebay though, some are counterfeit.

https://www.philwood.com/products/bearinghome.php

NSK
KSK
etc.

https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/maker/nsk/mech/M0800000000/M0802000000/M0802010000/
 

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Cool thanks - I was googling but wasn't coming up with much for consumers. Alibaba not withstanding...

huh. bummer. for the old spider 29 need 7902s, Phil doesn't seem to carry those.
anytime.

7902 is just angular contact version of 6902. should be same dimensions.

7902 = AC
6902 = Radial Contact.

some engineer will come in here and flame me for suggesting to replace angular contact with radial contact - but they work.

- i will add - its important to check links for tightness often. if they are TOO loose, it will prematurely wear out bearings.

https://forums.mtbr.com/santa-cruz/bearings-vpp-suspension-bronson-988011.html
 

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No engineer, but yes, bad idea as the Intense linkages have no spacer between the bearings to keep you from tightening them too tight and breaking them, while it may work with regular bearings, angular are definitely the best solution.

some engineer will come in here and flame me for suggesting to replace angular contact with radial contact - but they work.

- i will add - its important to check links for tightness often. if they are TOO loose, it will prematurely wear out bearings.
 

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Finally took my Primer lower link off. Two bearings were perfect, one a little crunchy, and the other, seized. I got the seized one moving but I was wondering how to get the bearings out with the crush tube in there? When replacing bearings do you need a new tube like the one that Intense includes with their bearing kits?
 

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So I backed off the torque on my recluse lower link bolts and now I have a popping sound I can't get rid of.

I took it to the lbs and had the torque it to spec that got about 90% of it gone for a few days then it came back full force.
It was silent before no problems it is building up tension then the popping as it releases I can feel it in my non drive side pedal.
 

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Turns out it was the bb making the popping sound. Threw me off because it started right after I made the preload adjustment.
I did learn in the process of tearing my linkage apart several times.
My advice is to tune it with the shock off cycling the suspension as you adjust preload tightening until you feel it start to bind the backing off a little bit.
The factory torque is too much that's why it is notchy. Probably one of those things where they over do it to protect themselves from people who ride their bikes until they fall apart from lack of maintenance.
 

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Turns out it was the bb making the popping sound. Threw me off because it started right after I made the preload adjustment.
I did learn in the process of tearing my linkage apart several times.
My advice is to tune it with the shock off cycling the suspension as you adjust preload tightening until you feel it start to bind the backing off a little bit.
The factory torque is too much that's why it is notchy. Probably one of those things where they over do it to protect themselves from people who ride their bikes until they fall apart from lack of maintenance.
so take shock off and tune the bolt torque then re mount shock?
 

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Yes remove shock and snug them up then cycle suspension tighten a little more cycle repeat until it is stiff with no play but moves freely. (Doing it like factorymatt suggests is best so you can isolate each pivot point).

I then torqued the collet bolts to factory spec.

I am running rwc needle bearing in the bottom shock eyelet on a cc DB inline coil. So a pretty sensitive setup and I can still tell my suspension is more active in a good way.
I suspect if they were torqued like this from the factory alot of the complaints about it being chattery off the top would stop.

This will be one of the first things I do on any new frame I build up from now on.
 
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