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Discussion Starter #1
A question about suspension setup, I understand that it is important to run a decent amount of low speed compression up front, but what about the back?
I have a dhx-5 and I can come really close to bottoming when "pumping" it like I do in corners and rollers.
It was setup and supposedly tuned to me and my bike (08 Norco Team DH) and the person said that it's normal to bottom out in corners, but I'm not so sure about that.
I have 25% sag, 150psi, and 6 clicks of PP.
 

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Locs on Spokez
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Why bother with PP?

That was the very first thing I tried to eliminate hahahahahah

What boost chamber size are you running? 3 white lines or 1 or what?
Bottoming isn't all that bad, I bottom my bike all the damn time, that's what it's made to do.
 

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maker of trail
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Not sure how many g's you could pull in a bermed corner, but in a g out I imagine you could get maybe 2g? That makes you all of a sudden twice as "heavy", so yeah, you'd expect the suspension to squat a lot more.

If you find your bike overly "wallowy" then a few clicks of PP/LSC will help, but keep in mind you will sacrifice small bump compliance, best thing is to try it out and see.

And yeah, a squish does not pump like a HT lol.

Depending on your trail, and what you do big hit wise, maybe try speeding up your rebound so when you do pump, you at least get of that back!
 

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I've been riding Norcos for years and have ridden my buddy's 08 Team DH (my big bikes are an 08 Shore and 09 Team DH). It is not "normal" to bottom out your suspension on any bike when cornering (unless you intentionally set it up that way, or unless we're talking about a huge wall berm at high speed).

Try setting the shock to the shorter travel (other mounting holes on the rocker arm) - it will significantly firm up the rear suspension. Set in longer mode, it's insanely plush but blows through its travel. I've always preferred the Team DH in the shorter travel mode, feels snappier and more agile and gets more boost off jumps.

I also turn the ProPedal all the way down for better small bump sensitivity. Decreasing the bottom out chamber volume and increasing the pressure helps keep from bottoming, but you'll still blow through the first part of the travel. And you may need to go to a stiffer spring (I weigh 220 lbs and generally go 50-100 lbs stiffer than stock).
 

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go up 50 lbs on the spring and let the air out to the minimum of 75 psi i did this on my demo and it feels alot more lively in the first part of travel without as much air pressure but then the heavier weight spring helps resist bottoming. run 0 clicks of pro pedal unless you need to pedal alot on your trails.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies guys. My dhx needs a min of 125psi and I I'm running it in the shorter travel mode. I like to pre-jump parts on the trails and I can't get as good of a hop if my bike is absorbing 7-8 inches on corners as well.
How do other people on Team Dh's set up their shocks?
 

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I don't think you should reduce the Boost pressure. You're looking for more compression damping. Do add clicks of PP until it feels harsh on small bumps, then back off a click or two. Set the Boost chamber volume 1 turn out from minimum and maybe go up to 160psi.

Are you running more than 2.5 turns of preload? If so you could go up 50lb on the spring and run less prelaod. That would help your situation.

After making any changes to the Boost pressure recheck your sag.
 

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You need more low speed compression damping. To get it you'll wind up increasing the entire compression range. If you're lucky the shock will be valved well enough for your bike that mid/high speed compression damping will still work to your liking.

- Set ProPedal to 8 clicks (middle setting)
- Start adding 10lbs of air pressure at a time then testing until you find the right level of low speed compression. The max you should put in is 200lbs.
- Once you find the sweet spot, micro-tune using ProPredal (it's just working as preload for the same valve the air pressure works on).
 

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Only use propedal on flatter pedally trails....I feel the shock preforms better with propedal all the way off....you might want to have about 170 pounds of air
 

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25% sag and bottoming it out that sounds strange you might want to soften it up and make it more progressive so heres my small advice.
get a 50lb lighter spring to achieve the 30% sag desired for dh
set the bottom out adjuster 1.5 - 2 turns from fully extended
run the air pressure at 175-200psi
and 3 clicks of propedal for good measure
 

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Depending on the year of your DHX you might need to add more pressure to the boost valve. Earlier models needed to be run with a minimum of 175 or 185 psi. As far as propedal goes, I would run all the way in for pedaling up a hill or on flat ground, but all the way out or up to two clicks in from wide open depending on how pedaly the trail was.

You might want to increase your bottom out resistance. To do so it is highly recommended that you let all the air out before doing so then pumping air back in. More bottom out resistance in that shock will make it ramp up more at the end of the stroke.

If you bought the shock aftermarket for your specific frame you might need to re-valve the shock to make it work better with the particular leverage ratios that your frame may have. Although sending your shock to PUSH almost always negates any warranty that Fox has on the shock they're about the best guys around to re-valve that particular shock.
 

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i run my dhx 4.0 with propedal all the way off going downhill and i think 125 psi and 1 and half turns on the preload i run about 27% sag and im 180lbs with gear i havent bottomed out yet but i have only done a couple rides with small jumps.....i wish it wouldnt rain every other day
 

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Set-up data for a shock on one frame is useless for setting up a shock on another frame. A) The suspension rates will be different B) The OEM tunes on the shock are likely different.

DON'T let all the air out of your shock to change bottom out. Remove air to the minimum allowed pressure (75 or 125 depending on the year). If you cycle the shock with less then min pressure you can push oil into places it should be and will need a rebuild.

ProPedal - all that dial does is affect preload on the Boost Valve - it does the same thing as adding/removing air, just in small indexed increments.
 
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