Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Addicted
Joined
·
749 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's been nearly 2 years since I've had a full suspension trail bike and I'm getting antsy to build something up to fit that postition in my stable. As it sits right now I've got a Trek Session 10, Foes Fly, Giant Faith, Cannondale Chase, Niner EMD, Giant Iguana(steel rigid SS yo!), Premium Harrington and Litespeed Ultimate(1999 edition!) filling my garage.
I've been looking at the Rune for a few weeks now trying to decide if I should go for one or something else.
I really like the geometry of the Rune(large). I'm 5'11" with a 35" inseem and a short upperbody. I also ride fairly aggressive due to the fact that 90% of my time is spent either on the DH bikes or my jump/slalom rig. Thus I find the 24" tt and 18" ST quite attractive.

I will be using this bike for day to day trail riding, mini-DH runs, 40+ mile epics and a bit of freeride at places like Post Canyon. Keeping this in mind, I'm trying to decide on a fork that will suit me best. I'm looking at either a Totem Solo Air lowered to 160mm, or a travel adjustable 160mm fork like a 36, lyric, 55, Wotan or Maveric DUC32. How many of you drop your travel down when you start to climb? I know on some of my past bikes I've had to drop the travel to climb well, but others it's not been neccasary.

Next question. Air or Coil rear shock? If I go coil it will be ti sprung no doubt to keep the weight down. Does anyone notice any significant differences with an air shock over a coil or vice versa.?

Finally my proposed build is as follows any tips or suggestions, problems?
Frame: Banshee Rune(large)
Fork: Totem Solo Air(lowered to 160) or Magura Wotan
Headset: King
Stem: Thomson, Point One, Sunline(70mm)
Bars: Syntace Vector carbon(710mm), Sunline Carbon
Grips: Odi Rouge
Brakes: Magura Louise BAT Carbon w/Venti discs(203/160mm)
Shifters: Sram X0 gripshift
Rear derailleur: Sram X0 midcage
Front derailleur: Shimano XTR or Saint double ring
Cranks: Shimano XTR
Chainrings: Blackspire 7005 24t/36t
Bashguard: Gamut
Chainguide: MRP, E13 or Gamut dual ring
Chain: KMC X10SL
Cassette: XTR 11-34t
Pedals: Crank Bro Mallet or Acid
Bottom Bracket: King
Wheels: Crank Bro Iodine or a custom built set with American Classic or King hubs, DT Swiss Supercomp spokes alloy nips and Stans ZTR Flow rims.
Tires: Maxxis Ardent upfrotn and Larsen TT out back for summer, maybe some Schwable for the winter.
Seat: WTB Deva
Post: Crank Bros Joplin or Thomson

I am rather particular about how my bikes ride. They need to ride light, be stiff and finally be fun. An answers to my concerns and ideas for my build would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,310 Posts
Hey Kevin,

Wow, it sounds to me like you are going to end up with a fantastic build no matter what frame you go for, but let me answer those questions for you about the rune.

Personally I think the rune feels best with 160mm travel up front, and infact I like to do every type of riding with a 160mm fork (In my case it was a lyrik). I didn't find that the fork caused me too many issues on really steep tech climbs, well I never really thought about it while on the climbs at least, so I guess it wasn't an issue. I certain had no issues finding traction, or with the front end lifting.

When I go out for a ride I tend to like to set and forget, and just ride. So might set the bike up a bit before heading out, but don't like to interupt a ride much with changing settings. With a 160mm fork up front, the geometry feels great... on the aggressive side of all mountain, and really excels when riding hard.

As for shock. The best shock in my opinion for the rune is the Manitou IXS 6. It is easy to tune, and infinately tunable. It is light (like all air shocks) and also cane take abuse better than most. I have never had the slightest issue with mine, and have been running it for almost 2 years now.

In the carpark saddle pressing test, the air shock will not feel as plush, as they tend to have a little more stiction. However I can't say that I find this very noticable on the trail. Sure when going fast over the rough stuff the coil may be slightly more supple if you really are trying to compare the 2, but the difference isn't all that apparent while riding. I certainly feel that the weight saving is worth it.

Hope that helps some?
 

·
Perpetual slow motion
Joined
·
480 Posts
builttoride said:
Hey Kevin,

Wow, it sounds to me like you are going to end up with a fantastic build
Speaking of fantastic builds... I heard of a Banshee proto named after a certain WWII fighter is in the works, maybe with adjustable geometry, 5-5.5 inches of travel, tapered head tube maybe...

Care to comment?
 

·
Addicted
Joined
·
749 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
builttoride said:
Hey Kevin,

Wow, it sounds to me like you are going to end up with a fantastic build no matter what frame you go for, but let me answer those questions for you about the rune.

Personally I think the rune feels best with 160mm travel up front, and infact I like to do every type of riding with a 160mm fork (In my case it was a lyrik). I didn't find that the fork caused me too many issues on really steep tech climbs, well I never really thought about it while on the climbs at least, so I guess it wasn't an issue. I certain had no issues finding traction, or with the front end lifting.

When I go out for a ride I tend to like to set and forget, and just ride. So might set the bike up a bit before heading out, but don't like to interupt a ride much with changing settings. With a 160mm fork up front, the geometry feels great... on the aggressive side of all mountain, and really excels when riding hard.

As for shock. The best shock in my opinion for the rune is the Manitou IXS 6. It is easy to tune, and infinately tunable. It is light (like all air shocks) and also cane take abuse better than most. I have never had the slightest issue with mine, and have been running it for almost 2 years now.

In the carpark saddle pressing test, the air shock will not feel as plush, as they tend to have a little more stiction. However I can't say that I find this very noticable on the trail. Sure when going fast over the rough stuff the coil may be slightly more supple if you really are trying to compare the 2, but the difference isn't all that apparent while riding. I certainly feel that the weight saving is worth it.

Hope that helps some?
The nice build is both a blessing and a burden. The only jobs I've ever worked have been in bike shops(including my own) and because of that I built a high end component ride, and for the last 6 years I haven't been able to build anything with parts that I would want to upgrade. It's got to be good from the get go, it costs me though.

I am really fond of the set it and forget it type of ride. I really don't want any handle bar mounted remotes or travel adjusters or anything of the sort. Although I do want to have good climbing ability and if that means that I need to crank it down to 140 to do so then perhaps I'll suffer through flicking a lever. I think the Wotan and the lowered Totem are right up my alley.
I think that I'll have to try the ISX 6. I don't need something overly plush. My curnutt has a stick to the initial compression. I've been a fan of the Revox's on my Sessions and the ISX 6 shimmed damper on my M3.

Anyone in the Portland/Longview area have a Rune that want to let me test?

-Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
Is that certain world war 2 fighter going to be up against the 5Spot? Any chance it'll have 140mm travel and a slacker head angle? 69 just seems to steep to me!
 

·
Perpetual slow motion
Joined
·
480 Posts
Sorry if i created a shite storm for you Keith, I thought the project was a little further along. Up the travel by 10mm and replace the Pyre, Then increase the travel on the Rune to 165mm and use a 2.5" stroke shock to get a leverage around 2.5-1. Oh, that would be golden:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,554 Posts
The impending Pyre replacement has been brought up on mtbr before, heck there is a discussion on NSMB that even includes pictures - don't get too excited though, they just look like Jay painted the front end of a Pyre grey and wrote 'prototype' on it :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,470 Posts
MartinS said:
The impending Pyre replacement has been brought up on mtbr before, heck there is a discussion on NSMB that even includes pictures - don't get too excited though, they just look like Jay painted the front end of a Pyre grey and wrote 'prototype' on it :D
You go a link for us? I tried a few searches on NSMB but didn't find anything later than 2007.

My .02c: After riding sL4yEr-Rules's rune, I'm curious;)

Seems like 1.5 or a tapered head tube would allow riders more flexibility with fork choice. 530a2c is kind of a weird number, I can't think of any forks that come in that length? It's 510-520 for the fox 32mm stanchion forks, and 545mm for the fox 36 forks... would be nice to be able to run either.

Of course we are wildy speculating, perhaps this new bike will really be a 5" all-mountain touring recumbent, in which case I might still be curious.
:idea:
 

·
Perpetual slow motion
Joined
·
480 Posts
FM said:
Seems like 1.5 or a tapered head tube would allow riders more flexibility with fork choice. 530a2c is kind of a weird number, I can't think of any forks that come in that length? It's 510-520 for the fox 32mm stanchion forks, and 545mm for the fox 36 forks... would be nice to be able to run either.
RockShox Revelation 150.
 

·
screamer
Joined
·
1,379 Posts
Wow, this sounds pretty damn awesome. I was psyched on the corsair marque but it turned out pretty damn heavy for a trailbike. Like the sound of the Evil sect, but could be ages before we see that. So this new Doodlebug could really fill an empty niche. No pressure, but GET THE F ON WITH IT, MAN!

And while we're in wishlist mode, lots of nice standover, short HT, please. Maybe 67-68 degree HA with 140mm fork? In other words not so slack that you never want to climb with it; you've got the wildcard, after all.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top