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Hi,

I have done a fair bit of research on the E13 "XC" cranks (these are the ones previously under the brand "Fifteen G") but am unable to find any opinions/reviews on wether these are suitable for enduro/all mountain type setup.

Most reviews of the single speed and triple versions only have positives to say.

On the E13 website they do describe them as a "lightweight XC / All Mountain " crank - but most websites refer the the DH version as the "AM/DH" version.

These will be going on a Ragley mmmBop (most likely taking the big ring off and using a bash). Usual set up of short stem wide bars, 140mm fork etc.

Thanks for any info.

Cheers,
Liam
 

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Liam,
Run the fifteen.G/Hive SS version 2010 crankset, and feel this info may also help on the AM/DH model. They're are light, and the 30mm axle sure is beefy. The key to set up is the spacers, as the left arm needs resistance to keep the bolt tight. Too many and they spin poorly, too few, and they kept coming loose. When dirty/gritty they sound horrible, but the bearings are well protected. Imagine the outer shields will need replacing yearly.
The wavey washer does the job, just pay attention to how many spacers are needed.

Two peeves are the sharp outward edges - when and if your ankle meet - you'll know,
and the alloy chainring bolts are too wimpy for HD or Clyde use.
 

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And of course, if you want some (slightly ;) ) biased opinions and or installation info, feel free to shoot me an email!

Passing along some of the comments I've had from customers...most people are happy that the cranks are easy to work on, are strong, and replacement parts are easy enough to come by...especially with our distribution ramping up right now (new webstore right around the corner).

Cheers,
philip @ theHive/e*thirteen
 

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I'm considering to buy one of those, only the review on mtbr that mentions the left arm cannot get tight correctly makes me think it's not the best choice
so does it really get loose all the time, or everything is about the spacers ?

does the single speed model is only sold without chainrings, or it is really a single speed model that does not accept more than one chainring ?

Is the triple for 9 or 10 speeds ?

thanks ;)
 

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Hi Kali,
The trick to keeping the cranks nice and tight is to ensure that the crank bolt is torqued to 40-48 Nm...I tend to err on the higher side for initial installation, and then check it after a ride or so. This is assuming the spacers are all correct, and there isn't anything odd such as a grossly oversized BB shell. If the cranks are ridden where the crank arm and spindle are not making 100% contact then you would run into issues, as the strength of the design requires that full contact.

Of course, we're pretty understanding that sometimes things do happen...but by and large we've seen very very few issues.

The SSK cranks are only sold without rings, as gearing is mostly up to rider preference. We do offer our ShiftRing kit that essentially lets you convert our cranks (XC and DH models) into a dual ring setup. Currently we have the 22-36 in stock, and the 24-38 should be along before too long. It certainly isn't a product for everyone, but the option is there. Both are also bashguard compatible...4x104 bolt.

All of our rings are compatible with 10 speed chains.

Cheers!
philip @ The Hive
 

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I have just bought a pair of these for my DH bike.
But I am facing some issue w/ the installation. :madman:

The bb bumps into the ISCG (old version) backplate.
I check w/ a e thirteen LG and a Superstar Plasma, but the bb does not fit w/ any of them. :madmax:

Any advice ?
 

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o_farf said:
I have just bought a pair of these for my DH bike.
But I am facing some issue w/ the installation. :madman:

The bb bumps into the ISCG (old version) backplate.
I check w/ a e thirteen LG and a Superstar Plasma, but the bb does not fit w/ any of them. :madmax:

Any advice ?
Hi Max,
Give us a call...800.801.9936. If you could also provide your Frame Make and Model Year, as well as current BB spacer setups, we should be able to help explain the process for fitting the guide correctly to your frame.

Cheers! -philip
 

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Have tried again yesterday.

One only trick. :
Chain guard has to be mounted and tight on the frame before the bottom bracket.
Then, w/ appropriate spacer(s) everything took its place. :cool:

Thank you for your assistance
 

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ok, mine is mounted on the bike, torque is is about 48nm, but the crank is not smooth when turnung by hand, when I push it down without the chain on, it only makes a quarter of a turn

is that normal ? does it need to break in ? should I remove one spacer ?

thanks for the anwser
 

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Same issue w/ mine.
Not sure but it seems the axle is either too short or the spacer is too thick.
Hi guys!
The cranks should be tight, but smooth. You should get about a good spin when the wavy washer is properly preloaded.

I will need the following setup info:
  • BB shell width
  • BB spacers under BB cups
  • Crank spindle spacers and Wavy washer setup
  • Has BB shell been faced or confirmed to be exactly 68/73/83mm (use calipers)?

Cheers,
philip @ thehive (freshly back from the US Open) :thumbsup:
 

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BB shell width : 73mm
BB spacers under BB cups : drive 1 - nondrive 0
Crank spindle spacers and Wavy washer setup : wavy washer + 2 spacers
BB not faced or controlled

I think I'm going to remove one crank spindle spacer
 

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BB shell width : 73mm
BB spacers under BB cups : drive 1 - nondrive 0
Crank spindle spacers and Wavy washer setup : wavy washer + 2 spacers
BB not faced or controlled

I think I'm going to remove one crank spindle spacer
(See attached...using the DH cranks as an example)
This is generally what you're looking to do for proper preload. The wavy washer should be nearly flat. With most BB shells, you'll only need the wavy washer. If your BB is slightly undersized, then you can add in some of the 0.5mm crank spindle spacers as well. Again, with a fresh install you should be getting nearly a full spin. This should break in as you ride. You want to be sure that your crank arm and the spindle are making full contact (the crank bolt should be bottoming out!) and that you're hitting between 41-47 Nm on the bolt with your torque wrench (I aim right for 47 Nm personally).

Cheers,
philip
 

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