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FIFI!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i've been using tubeless rims for a bit, been holding up very well to my rough riding style. problem being, i've came to the conclusion that i absolutely hate tubeless and want to go back. selling the wheels to a buddy.

i'm kinda harsh on my wheels, i allways land pretty well, but yeah i'm jumping things all the time. something nice and stout would be preferred, but then again i'm also not doing 20 ft. doubles so i dont need wheels with tanklike qualities either, as i do some commuting on the rig as well. disc only is fairly important to me.

price isn't necessarily an issue really, but that doesn't mean i'm gonna blow my whole wallet on 2 cylindrical pieces of metal.

open to all suggestions, i've been out of the biking thing for a few years so this is where your guys' knowledge comes into play ;)
 

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We want... a shrubbery!
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How much do you weigh--that can factor in significantly to the rims you finally decide on. I run Mavic XC 717 discs--some people have had problems with them, but I'm only at 135lbs, and I have no problems with them at all.
 

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Arrow Racing XCL is one possibility.

The XCL from Arrow Racing is 27mm and comes in at a true 510g. It's the "Weight vs. Width" champ at this point as it is lighter than the Syncros DS28. It's a nice 'tweener rim in that it fills the gap between XC rims which usually top out around 440g and the Freeride products that start somewhere around 560g (real world).

If you want something a little more heavy-duty, the Sun SingleTracks I've received recently have been right around the ad weight of 590g, some even less. That's kind of unusual for a Sun product. The SingleTrack is very similar to their RhynoLite XL model in terms of weight and width, but is easier to mount tires on.
 

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bianchi4me said:
...The SingleTrack is very similar to their RhynoLite XL model in terms of weight and width, but is easier to mount tires on.
Singletracks came on my Coiler DL. Very easy to mount tires on. I was able to mount and remove a Gazzi 3.0 bare handed with no fuss.
 

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Whereas...

shiggy said:
Singletracks came on my Coiler DL. Very easy to mount tires on. I was able to mount and remove a Gazzi 3.0 bare handed with no fuss.
Whereas the RhynoLite/RhynoLite XL have sometimes been accused of being part of a conspiracy fostered by the Tire Lever Manufacturers Association... Put some thick rim tape on those babies and you've got your hands full trying to coax certain tires onto there.
 

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Beyond the stars
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A lot of people are saying the Singletracks are good

reasonable weight, strong, easy to mount tires, etc.

If all this is true, why am I having such a hard time selling my "almost new" wheelset?

(in the classifieds under wheelsets) Is it just that people don't buy used wheels? or folks don't like the Ringle' hubs? What's the scoop? Maybe it's just 'cause it's tax time? Anybody know the answers to these and other pressing questions?
 

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DJBiker said:
reasonable weight, strong, easy to mount tires, etc.

If all this is true, why am I having such a hard time selling my "almost new" wheelset?

(in the classifieds under wheelsets) Is it just that people don't buy used wheels? or folks don't like the Ringle' hubs? What's the scoop? Maybe it's just 'cause it's tax time? Anybody know the answers to these and other pressing questions?
I may be because one can buy a new set with XT hubs, DT spokes, brass nipples, hand-buil;t and tensionometered for $150 online.

I don't know if your RIngle hubs are better, worse, or equal to new XT hubs, but $275 seems a bit too steep for almost new given the price of new.

h1pst3r
 

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Beyond the stars
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Yea, I kinda thought that was going to be the problem, BUT

Here is the deal the XT hubs, Cones and Ball berrings! Cheap to manufacture, require more maintainance (adjusting the cones) and wear out in a shorter time.

The Ringle' hubs, 4 Sealed Cartridge Berrings per hub! Stronger, more costly to manufacture, replaceable, no adjustment, and last longer.

But, hey we all understand why Chris King hubs cost more than XT hubs . . . RIGHT?

For the most part rim cost are kinda even across the board (with the exception of downhill widths or UST) the REAL cost of a wheelset is in the hubs and the build.

It's too bad MOST people don't really know the details of what they are buying or why a part is more expensive than another . . . Sad to think we don't know the difference between Cone and Cartridge berring hubs . . . .
 

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FIFI!
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
DJBiker said:
Here is the deal the XT hubs, Cones and Ball berrings! Cheap to manufacture, require more maintainance (adjusting the cones) and wear out in a shorter time.

The Ringle' hubs, 4 Sealed Cartridge Berrings per hub! Stronger, more costly to manufacture, replaceable, no adjustment, and last longer.

But, hey we all understand why Chris King hubs cost more than XT hubs . . . RIGHT?

For the most part rim cost are kinda even across the board (with the exception of downhill widths or UST) the REAL cost of a wheelset is in the hubs and the build.

It's too bad MOST people don't really know the details of what they are buying or why a part is more expensive than another . . . Sad to think we don't know the difference between Cone and Cartridge berring hubs . . . .
cool. good luck with the sale doors on the left ;)

milroy said:
I don't know the full story but why not just run tubes and ordinary tires on your tubeless rims?
because it's a PITA fixing flats on a tubeless wheel with tubed tires. i'm embarking on a fairly large ride across washington next month and would much rather deal with a standard wheel/rim combo. that and my buddies all amped on tubeless so figured might as well not let mine go to waste and let somebody actually appreciate them.

thanks for all the feedback everybody :)
 
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