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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm riding an 05 Gary Fisher Rig, my Bontrager Mustang 29 inch wheel has a Shimano LockRing on it. However it is not your typical size, it is a bit larger than the typical one found on most cassettes. Does anyone know what tool I need to use to remove the lockring? My friend is thinking that it is an old school bottom bracket tool that I need, and I called a mechanic from Jax in Long Beach (Scott) whom singlespeeds and he reinforced my friends theory of needing such a tool. He was saying it is like a "claw" type looking tool and is very old school. I'm guessing my best bet is going to be having to take my wheel into a shop to see what I exactly need, unless someone here can help me out. Unfortunately I dont have a pic of it right now, but can post one on Monday. The "top" mechanic according to an employee at Performance in FV didn't even know what I was talking about.
 

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Sweep the leg!
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I use my VAR #16 lockring tool on my Rig. I didn't remember paying anywhere near $60 even with an employee discount. It looks like the #601 tool would work well too, and it's significantly cheaper.

http://www.melpintoimports.com/varbottombrackettools.html

Also, you'll need a chain whip if you take the wheel off the bike. If you leave the wheel on the bike, you'll just have to secure the crank to keep it from pedalling backwards when you put torque on the lockring. An old leather toe strap around the stay and the crankarm would work.

Chain whip halfway down the page: http://www.bikyle.com/Tools.asp

Other lockring tools look like your finger with a hook at the end. Campagnolo, Park, Shimano and other companies make them and they range in price from $8 on up and come singly or in kits.
 

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Drevil said:
If your lockring looks like the on this:



Then you'll need this:



and this:

I have rarely been happy with that type of lockring tool, even for BBs. The pliers type (that I can not find anymore) were my favorite. Several of my LBSs had them among their shop tools.

My dirty little secret is I use Channel-lock pliers. Open the jaws to where I can squeeze the handles comfortably and just grab the lockring and turn it. Scars it up but I do not care.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks guys, i did buy a chainwhip yesterday and i'm about to head out to JAX to see if they have the other tool.
 

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Funny, I had the same experience talking to the mechanics at Performance last week. They couldn't figure out what I was talking about either...

Is there a name for that style of lock ring and threaded (yet also splined) hub?
 

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VTSEAL said:
Funny, I had the same experience talking to the mechanics at Performance last week. They couldn't figure out what I was talking about either...

Is there a name for that style of lock ring and threaded (yet also splined) hub?
How quickly they forget or had never learned. The lock ring is the same size as the BB adjustable cup lockring that was the standard before Shimano forced the one-piece cartridge BBs on us.
 

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shiggy said:
I have rarely been happy with that type of lockring tool, even for BBs. The pliers type (that I can not find anymore) were my favorite. Several of my LBSs had them among their shop tools.

My dirty little secret is I use Channel-lock pliers. Open the jaws to where I can squeeze the handles comfortably and just grab the lockring and turn it. Scars it up but I do not care.
I did something similar with some adjustable pliers - but I put a little bit of black hockey tape over the channels to protect from the scarring you refer to. There is just enough "tackiness" to the tape that it holds well and the lock ring will turn and loosen pretty easily. :thumbsup:
 

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psycho cyclo addict
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^^ Adding a bump because it was precisely the right tool for the job earlier this week to swap out a 20t for an 18t cog on my '09 Rig :thumbsup:
 
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