list your favorite fix for common disk brake problems
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268 Posts
my problem: my magura martas were ok when i initially bled, but then would lose power over the first 2-3 rides
solution: warranty master cylinders!!!! yay!!!!
no but really, the most important thing i've ever done to get power out of my brakes besides replace faulty pieces was to face my disc tabs.
solution: warranty master cylinders!!!! yay!!!!
no but really, the most important thing i've ever done to get power out of my brakes besides replace faulty pieces was to face my disc tabs.
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6,494 Posts
problem = brake fluid on pads
solution = 20 minutes in the oven @ 450
problem = too much free throw
solution = squeeze levers once w/o rotor in there
problem = hfx9 little plastic bleed cap fell out (happened with both levers)
solution = replace with cable caps
solution = 20 minutes in the oven @ 450
problem = too much free throw
solution = squeeze levers once w/o rotor in there
problem = hfx9 little plastic bleed cap fell out (happened with both levers)
solution = replace with cable caps
Joined
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707 Posts
Avid BB7 Emergency parking brake/lock (When you absolutely must have to leave your bike alone for a minute or two but you forgot to bring a bike lock) - turn the pad adjuster knobs all the way in till the brake pads lock up the wheels. Chances are, the thief will not know how to undo it, and if he does, it will take some time before he can take off with your bike.
Consult the disc brake FAQ.
Reset your pistons before installing new pads.
If the pistons will not completely push back into the bores the system may be overfilled. Level out the lever, open the bleed port on the lever and then reset the pistons.
If your lever is squishy or inconsistent inspect for leaks, wet spots, etc and then bleed.
If the lever pulls too far you can overfill the system or pump out the pistons.
Avid and Formula need a bleed kit to bleed the brakes.
If your rotor rubs after removing and reinstalling the wheel it's because the wheel isn't sitting in the dropouts exactly as it had before. Center the caliper.
If the rotor rubs intermittently, the rotor needs to be trued.
If the rotor rubs constantly, the caliper needs to be centered.
If you pulled the lever without something between the pads, reset the pistons.
If the brake is new, performance will improve after the bedding process.
There are many different pad compounds.
If the brake howls, make sure there is no contamination (clean rotor, replace pads if necessary), check all mounting hardware for torque, check spokes for looseness, check hubs and pivots for play.
Reset your pistons before installing new pads.
If the pistons will not completely push back into the bores the system may be overfilled. Level out the lever, open the bleed port on the lever and then reset the pistons.
If your lever is squishy or inconsistent inspect for leaks, wet spots, etc and then bleed.
If the lever pulls too far you can overfill the system or pump out the pistons.
Avid and Formula need a bleed kit to bleed the brakes.
If your rotor rubs after removing and reinstalling the wheel it's because the wheel isn't sitting in the dropouts exactly as it had before. Center the caliper.
If the rotor rubs intermittently, the rotor needs to be trued.
If the rotor rubs constantly, the caliper needs to be centered.
If you pulled the lever without something between the pads, reset the pistons.
If the brake is new, performance will improve after the bedding process.
There are many different pad compounds.
If the brake howls, make sure there is no contamination (clean rotor, replace pads if necessary), check all mounting hardware for torque, check spokes for looseness, check hubs and pivots for play.
Joined
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799 Posts
Issue : Avid BB7 have too much/too little power/modulation
[Fix] : Moving inboard (spoke side) adjuster knob to bring the inner pad closer to rotor increases 'snappyness' and power but may make the brakes a bit too twitchy.
*Use outboard board to adjust contact and inboard to adjust feel.
(!!!) Always make sure you onlt take off cable slack, do not use lever barell adjustment to compensate for pad wear.
[Fix] : Moving inboard (spoke side) adjuster knob to bring the inner pad closer to rotor increases 'snappyness' and power but may make the brakes a bit too twitchy.
*Use outboard board to adjust contact and inboard to adjust feel.
(!!!) Always make sure you onlt take off cable slack, do not use lever barell adjustment to compensate for pad wear.
Joined
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1,725 Posts
Dilemma: Brake fade towards the end of long descent (5X)
Solution: Replace brakes
Dilemma: Leak between hose fittings and caliper
Solution: Get correct fittings
Dilemma: Rivet on rotor rubs on caliper
Solution: File the area on the caliper down (helps that the caliper are silver in colour)
Dilemma: Spongy feel to levers
Solution: Bleed brakes
Dilemma: Slight warp of rotor
Solution: Use fingers to bend rotor the other way
Dilemma: Rubbing of rotors
Solution: Realign calipers
Dilemma: Rubbing of rotors
Solution: Realign calipers
Realignment of calipers occurs a bit more often ...
Solution: Replace brakes
Dilemma: Leak between hose fittings and caliper
Solution: Get correct fittings
Dilemma: Rivet on rotor rubs on caliper
Solution: File the area on the caliper down (helps that the caliper are silver in colour)
Dilemma: Spongy feel to levers
Solution: Bleed brakes
Dilemma: Slight warp of rotor
Solution: Use fingers to bend rotor the other way
Dilemma: Rubbing of rotors
Solution: Realign calipers
Dilemma: Rubbing of rotors
Solution: Realign calipers
Realignment of calipers occurs a bit more often ...
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212 Posts
:thumbsup:Chriffer said:
unless you've just finished a 45 minutes downhill and want to char them up a bit...
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830 Posts
Ouch.
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