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2020 Specialized Rockhopper Expert 1x / 2010 Specialized Hardrock Disc
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello, I have a 2020 Specialized Rockhopper Expert 1x that I got to 23.86 lbs.

I have done a few things to it already like (updated)


Fox Float 32 fork 100mm
Lizzard skins fork covers
SRAM Eagle GX cranks 165mm
DUB 73mm BB threaded english
26t North Shore Billet chainring.
SRAM 11-36t PG 1070 cassette
29x2.0 race kings tubeless 2 ounces stans.
Aluminum presta tubeless valves.
Sram CLX 160mm rotors front/rear
Titanium brake bolts 4 front/4 rear.
KMC SL chain.
Crank Bros #3 Egg beaters.
Selle Italia SLR saddle.
Thompson Elite X4 stem.
Controltech 600mm flat handlebar.
Titanium stem bolts 6.
Thompson Masterpiece seat post.
Titanium bottle cage bolts 4.
Titanium headset bolt.
Titanium jockey wheel bolts 2.
Risk seat post collar w/titanium bolt.
Ultegra pulleys
Saint Derailleur
KCNC eva grips




Any advice or comments on anything of my build?


Thanks for any help or advice, i will check back here soon.
 

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Bikes in jeans
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Hello, I have a 2020 Specialized Rockhopper Expert 1x that I am trying to get to 25lbs.

I have done a few things to it already like

29x2.0 race kings tubeless 2 ounces stans.
Aluminum presta tubeless valves.
Sram CLX 160mm rotors front/rear
Titanium brake bolts 4 front/4 rear.
KMC SL chain.
Crank Bros #3 Egg beaters.
Selle Italia SLR saddle.
Thompson Elite X4 stem.
Titanium stem bolts 6.
Thompson Masterpiece seat post.
Risk seat post clamp.
Titanium bottle cage bolts 4.
Titanium headset bolt.
Titanium jockey wheel bolts 2.
Sram 1070 11-36 cassette.

I am waiting for a few parts to come in so i can weigh it but I'm getting close to my goal of hitting 25lbs.


Any advice or comments on anything of my build? At this point i am waiting for the rear cassette so i can install it and weigh the bike for a final weight which i will report back here. Also I have a 30t stock chain ring in the front which I think is good for the 11-36t cassette? My stock cassette must be 600+ grams with only 1 additional 42t cog which I'm not sure I will need even on climbs?

I do have a question, where can I find the exact specs of my bike on the web? When I go to the specialized web site it is a very general description that doesn't tell me the specs of everything. If I wanted to swap out my cranks or bottom bracket etc. I have no idea what specifications they are. I had to dig pretty hard to even find info the few modifications i have already made. I wish there was in depth info about bikes measurements and parts etc. which i cannot seem to find.

Thanks for any help or advice, i will check back here soon.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/r...060?color=263514-171060&searchText=91220-3301

The tech specs are at the bottom of the page. Viewing on a PC so have no clue if the page looks the same on a phone. It obviously doesn't list the weight by component but does list what's on the bike so some quick searching should come up with an approximate weight for the individual components.

What is the weight at currently?

These come with fairly low end components, so dropping weight wouldn't be terribly difficult. You may want to wear things out and then replace with a lighter option, but you can replace working stuff if you really want to shed some lbs.

The chain you removed is only slightly heavier than the SL version, I would definitely save and reuse it. Chains IMO aren't great ways to save a lot of weight.

Easy stuff:
Bars - Swap for carbon something
Grips - Swap for ESI or other foam grips
Cassette - Swap for higher end Shimano, SRAM, or Garbaruk
Crankset & Bottom bracket - Swap for external cup BB and carbon or high-end aluminum crank

Major stuff:
Fork - Could probably lose a full pound upgrading to a higher end fork
Wheels - Could drop a bunch here if you ever want to do a major upgrade on it
 

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Discussion Starter #3
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/r...060?color=263514-171060&searchText=91220-3301

The tech specs are at the bottom of the page. Viewing on a PC so have no clue if the page looks the same on a phone. It obviously doesn't list the weight by component but does list what's on the bike so some quick searching should come up with an approximate weight for the individual components.

What is the weight at currently?

These come with fairly low end components, so dropping weight wouldn't be terribly difficult. You may want to wear things out and then replace with a lighter option, but you can replace working stuff if you really want to shed some lbs.

The chain you removed is only slightly heavier than the SL version, I would definitely save and reuse it. Chains IMO aren't great ways to save a lot of weight.

Easy stuff:
Bars - Swap for carbon something
Grips - Swap for ESI or other foam grips
Cassette - Swap for higher end Shimano, SRAM, or Garbaruk
Crankset & Bottom bracket - Swap for external cup BB and carbon or high-end aluminum crank

Major stuff:
Fork - Could probably lose a full pound upgrading to a higher end fork
Wheels - Could drop a bunch here if you ever want to do a major upgrade on it
Thank you for the reply.

I now see the tech specs at the bottom of the page. Which is good. Although sometimes it doesn't say the exact model of the component they used so I can cross reference check vs aftermarket components, but good enough I suppose.

The bike in stock configuration weighed in at 29.87lbs bone stock this is a 2020 Rockhopper Expert 1x.

The way it sits right now it weighs in at 27.10lbs. Although I don't have the foam silicon grips which supposedly weigh 30 grams. I don't have the light seat collar that supposedly weighs 11 grams. I also am waiting on the upgraded Italia saddle that has the titanium rails that has a claimed weight of 145 grams. These are all items that are still in the mail being delivered to me. I should have them in about 2 weeeks hopefully & installed.

I have the SRAM PG1070 11t-36t cassette sitting here brand new waiting to be installed. But I am not sure If I am fully going to commit to going through with it. I currently have a 11t-42t stock with the stock 30t chainring. It is a very good set of gear ratios but I was wondering if I wanted to go 11t-36t instead to shave a lot of weight off the rear cassette. I'm thinking at this point if I could get to my financially realistic goal of hitting 25lbs on my hopper I could skip the cassette and keep the larger 42t cog on the stock shimano, but i know the stock shimano 11t-42t cassette is what almost 600grams? I'm not sure because as I was saying there is no model number on the specialized tech specification page lol. I'm thinking the SRAM 11t-36t will shave upwards of 200 grams because i know for a fact this cassette is about 365 grams-ish give or take last i checked.

Another thing is I wanted to keep the bike in all aluminum no carbon. I know carbon is superior and lighter but for some reason I like the old school look of shiny metal lol.

So yeah this is where I'm at right now. I know 25lbs isn't a very weight weenie-ish goal, but I am on a tight budget during this time.
I bought the bike for 700 used in very good condition and have spent almost 500 about including everything I have mentioned and that is in the mail still coming. So if i hit 25lbs for just about $1300 i consider that a victory right? lol
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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The titanium bolts that I do have, on my stem on one bike and a few various in other places, seem to like loosening up. I could take some additional measures I suppose, but I don't find them as good as steel bolts. I'd rather keep steel on *most* stuff and go aluminum bolts in the low-torque applications, like bottle cage bolts, brake/shifter pinch bolts, etc.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
The titanium bolts that I do have, on my stem on one bike and a few various in other places, seem to like loosening up. I could take some additional measures I suppose, but I don't find them as good as steel bolts. I'd rather keep steel on *most* stuff and go aluminum bolts in the low-torque applications, like bottle cage bolts, brake/shifter pinch bolts, etc.
Are you using "lock-tite" or some similar product to keep your bike bolts from coming loose? They have different versions like medium or hard to make the bolt very stiff in the thread and basically almost impossible for it to come loose unless with a lot of torque from a wrench.

On a side note, I made one last purchase. A "Controltech" 7075 handlebar that weighs 158 grams.

As soon as the handlebar, stem, saddle, clamp, & grips come in I will post up the bike with a few pics, all its upgrades, and weight. Hopefully I can break into the 25lbs range which is my goal even it It's 25.99lbs lol.
 

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If you're not going carbon, then that makes things difficult. Only big ticket item that will drop a lot of weight I can think of is cranks. You can get Ti cranks. It'll cost more than your entire bike.
Wheels is often the other spot, but if not carbon then you'll have to shave carefully with lighter rims, less spokes, alloy nipples, lighter skewers, at the cost of strength.
Forks, again a lot of money.
I actually run a pair of nylon bolts on my secondary bottle cage on cross bike. Cage flexes a bunch, but it has held on fine through some pretty darn rough stuff!
Ti fasteners, please use anti seize! Ti galls.
Technically, once you have the stem/headset adjusted and tightened, you can remove the aheadset stem cap and bolt, and if really weenie, the star nut. But I can't recommend this, if/when the stem comes loose, you won't have any way to tighten it on trail.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you're not going carbon, then that makes things difficult. Only big ticket item that will drop a lot of weight I can think of is cranks. You can get Ti cranks. It'll cost more than your entire bike.
Wheels is often the other spot, but if not carbon then you'll have to shave carefully with lighter rims, less spokes, alloy nipples, lighter skewers, at the cost of strength.
Forks, again a lot of money.
I actually run a pair of nylon bolts on my secondary bottle cage on cross bike. Cage flexes a bunch, but it has held on fine through some pretty darn rough stuff!
Ti fasteners, please use anti seize! Ti galls.
Technically, once you have the stem/headset adjusted and tightened, you can remove the aheadset stem cap and bolt, and if really weenie, the star nut. But I can't recommend this, if/when the stem comes loose, you won't have any way to tighten it on trail.


Yea I like the look of metal so I am keeping this build free of carbon.

You mentioned cranks, do you know what cranks are a good economical replacement for my 2020 rockhopper expert 1x? I think mine are a 1 piece design where the chainring and the crank arms are stuck together? Not sure if this is something new but I don't have a spider or ability to change just the chain ring itself it apprears.

Wheels is something I might do down the line because I know those are going to be expensive. On my last bike I had a set of Rovals which are about $500 bucks and i loved them, but I might take my time on wheels this time simply because I think I can get to my goal weight of 25lbs without upgrading the wheels, I hope lol.

Where did you get those nylon bolts? I can see 6 spots that have the same size bolts on my bike. 4 for the bottle cages and 2 more up in the rear just behind the top of the rear wheel. I have 6 Ti bolts in there but I'm sure nylon is lighter than the Ti bolts. Although all my Ti bolts are gold so I would lose out on the bling factor lol.

A just bought a brand new bottle of loc-tite medium, is this what you mean anti-seize? Or are you talking about a different product? I think I used grease on my rotors center lock bolt also. I can go through and put loctite or grease or whatever I need to on the all the bike bolts I just don't know which bolts require or are recommended to put what on actually. I'm kind of a n00b so knowing what to put stuff on and how much to tighten each bolt is all new to me.( I bought a torque wrench full kit btw)

I already have swapped out the headset bolt to a Ti one. Also have the Thompson X4 stem sitting here waiting for the controltech handlbar to come in the mail so I can install them together. The Italia Ti saddle has also been delivered.
 

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Where did you get those nylon bolts? I can see 6 spots that have the same size bolts on my bike. 4 for the bottle cages and 2 more up in the rear just behind the top of the rear wheel. I have 6 Ti bolts in there but I'm sure nylon is lighter than the Ti bolts. Although all my Ti bolts are gold so I would lose out on the bling factor lol.

A just bought a brand new bottle of loc-tite medium, is this what you mean anti-seize? Or are you talking about a different product? I think I used grease on my rotors center lock bolt also. I can go through and put loctite or grease or whatever I need to on the all the bike bolts I just don't know which bolts require or are recommended to put what on actually. I'm kind of a n00b so knowing what to put stuff on and how much to tighten each bolt is all new to me.( I bought a torque wrench full kit btw)
The nylon bolts I actually got at local hardware store. 10-32 I think was the standard size that is so close to waterbottle cage bolt size that it works. I'm sure you can find proper metric nylon bolts on the net. I use them only on non critcal places, either to block off unused cage/rack mount holes, or on the secondary bottle cage that I only occasionally remove bottle from and/or use to hold my rainjacket for commuting.

Galling is a problem with Titanium fasteners, any Ti fastner should use anti-seize, which is a type of grease. Ti specific anti-seize is best, its copper based. You can usually get a big tub of copper based anti seize at car parts store, or small tubes at the local well stocked bicycle shop. Regular grease will do in a pinch, but anti seize is stickier and has solids (the copper) that handle high pressure without getting squeezed out.
Loctite hardens and keeps fastners from loosening up from vibration. It does help to prevent corrosion too like grease and anti-seize by filling threads and keeping moisture out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The nylon bolts I actually got at local hardware store. 10-32 I think was the standard size that is so close to waterbottle cage bolt size that it works. I'm sure you can find proper metric nylon bolts on the net. I use them only on non critcal places, either to block off unused cage/rack mount holes, or on the secondary bottle cage that I only occasionally remove bottle from and/or use to hold my rainjacket for commuting.

Galling is a problem with Titanium fasteners, any Ti fastner should use anti-seize, which is a type of grease. Ti specific anti-seize is best, its copper based. You can usually get a big tub of copper based anti seize at car parts store, or small tubes at the local well stocked bicycle shop. Regular grease will do in a pinch, but anti seize is stickier and has solids (the copper) that handle high pressure without getting squeezed out.
Loctite hardens and keeps fastners from loosening up from vibration. It does help to prevent corrosion too like grease and anti-seize by filling threads and keeping moisture out.
I will check my hardware store for nylon bolts. I can throw them in the 4 cage holders and the 2 additional hoes above the rear tire. Good advice.

The titanium bolts i have are for the brakes. 4 in front & 4 in back total of 8. 2 for each caliper and 2 for each brakes mount. I have coated the entire screw with the mild "medium" labeled loc-tite In an effort to knock 2 birds with the same stone? Prevent vibration or backing out along with coating the bolts to prevent galling. I hope this is correct? Most would say anti-seize but I chose loc-tite as it felt like a better decision to me for the brake bolts in my opinion, am I okay? I definitely don't want any galling with the titanium bolts into the aluminum rockhoppers frame, that would be a nightmare.

By the way I ordered a 29" Fox Float 32 which is in the mail right now. The fork should put me in the low 25lbs range or if I'm lucky maaaaaybe even the high 24lbs range. We'll see. Considering the stock 2020 rockhopper expert 1x weighed 28.87lbs I already have it down to 26.60lbs using no carbon at all It's going pretty good.

Once I successfully install the fork I want to look into a crankset/bb/chainring upgrade.
 

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I don't think those Thompson components are all that light are they?

If you really want to drop a bunch of weight, go singlespeed. Seriously, if you're talking about dropping the 42 cassette, it doesn't sound like you're too worried about climbing. Even more weight? Rigid singlespeed.
 
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I don't think those Thompson components are all that light are they?

If you really want to drop a bunch of weight, go singlespeed. Seriously, if you're talking about dropping the 42 cassette, it doesn't sound like you're too worried about climbing. Even more weight? Rigid singlespeed.
Hi Chazpat. The Thompson Masterpiece seatpost is very light in my opinion at 192 grams uncut. The fit and finish on it is absolutely beautiful.

The Controltech 600mm flat handlebar i got is also incredibly light. As light as a carbon handlebar at 158 grams.

The Thompson X4 stem is a beautiful matching piece in silver to the masterpiece seatpost and It weighs 175 grams but is built like a tank and looks superior to any stem I've ever seen lol.

I was going for an light yet built to last XC build in all alloy for my personal exercise/enjoyment bike. I couldn't do singlespeed because I live In a very mountainous area and the city streets & fire roads/singletracks are very steep around here. That's why I wanted to even drop a gear from 30t to 28t to compensate for going 11-36t from the huge 11-42t set which is massive lol. The 11-42t cassette is 420 grams, the 11-36t i have my eye on is 230 grams. Almost half It's weight for a very small penalty that could be compensated by a 28t chain ring.

Oh & I thought about rigid fork but didn't want to on a mountain bike. The single tracks are gnarly here. And to be honest i do like a little comfort on a otherwise rigid XC hardtail. That's why I ordered the Fox Float 32 which is 1700 grams uncut and on It's way.

I'll post pics next month when It's complete.
 

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Cycologist
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Hi Chazpat. The Thompson Masterpiece seatpost is very light in my opinion at 192 grams uncut. The fit and finish on it is absolutely beautiful.

The Controltech 600mm flat handlebar i got is also incredibly light. As light as a carbon handlebar at 158 grams.

The Thompson X4 stem is a beautiful matching piece in silver to the masterpiece seatpost and It weighs 175 grams but is built like a tank and looks superior to any stem I've ever seen lol.

I was going for an light yet built to last XC build in all alloy for my personal exercise/enjoyment bike. I couldn't do singlespeed because I live In a very mountainous area and the city streets & fire roads/singletracks are very steep around here. That's why I wanted to even drop a gear from 30t to 28t to compensate for going 11-36t from the huge 11-42t set which is massive lol. The 11-42t cassette is 420 grams, the 11-36t i have my eye on is 230 grams. Almost half It's weight for a very small penalty that could be compensated by a 28t chain ring.

Oh & I thought about rigid fork but didn't want to on a mountain bike. The single tracks are gnarly here. And to be honest i do like a little comfort on a otherwise rigid XC hardtail. That's why I ordered the Fox Float 32 which is 1700 grams uncut and on It's way.

I'll post pics next month when It's complete.
I've got a Controltech 565mm flat carbon handlebar you can have for the cost of shipping if you decide carbon bits are ok and you're willing to go even skinnier. I'm not sure of the weight. I've also got several Thompson stems sitting in a box, they are nice but old-school long at 120mm; I've thought about putting them on my road bikes but I haven't, also a Thompson seatpost but I have droppers now. You haven't mentioned where you are located and you didn't list it in your profile so we don't know what kind of climbing you'll be doing or just how rough the terrain is, that's always helpful to know.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
I've got a Controltech 565mm flat carbon handlebar you can have for the cost of shipping if you decide carbon bits are ok and you're willing to go even skinnier. I'm not sure of the weight. I've also got several Thompson stems sitting in a box, they are nice but old-school long at 120mm; I've thought about putting them on my road bikes but I haven't, also a Thompson seatpost but I have droppers now. You haven't mentioned where you are located and you didn't list it in your profile so we don't know what kind of climbing you'll be doing or just how rough the terrain is, that's always helpful to know.
Thank you for the offer Chazpat I will keep that in mind, very nice of you. Yea the thompson 50mm X4 stem is really a beautiful stem, probably best looking stem I have ever seen also regarded as extremely stiff. Thompson stuff is very high quality I love it can't really go wrong. I am in L.A California near Angeles Crest mountains there is a lot of hilly areas & fireroads and some nice single tracks also if you can find them. I used to know them all 10 years ago when I would ride with my LBS but I have since forgotten the secret paths to get to them lol
 

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Thank you for the offer Chazpat I will keep that in mind, very nice of you. Yea the thompson 50mm X4 stem is really a beautiful stem, probably best looking stem I have ever seen also regarded as extremely stiff. Thompson stuff is very high quality I love it can't really go wrong. I am in L.A California near Angeles Crest mountains there is a lot of hilly areas & fireroads and some nice single tracks also if you can find them. I used to know them all 10 years ago when I would ride with my LBS but I have since forgotten the secret paths to get to them lol
Just keep an eye on the faceplate, there was a known problem of some of them developing cracks. None of mine did. My latest trail bike has Renthal stem, also quite light, a bit more “industrial” looking.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just keep an eye on the faceplate, there was a known problem of some of them developing cracks. None of mine did. My latest trail bike has Renthal stem, also quite light, a bit more “industrial” looking.
Thanks for the heads up I will keep an eye on the faceplate and inspect if for cracks regularly. I mostly ride in an "XC" type of riding meaning no jumps no huge drops the most action I would ever see would be some single tracks but I would have huge task of finding the old single tracks we would ride with the LBS years ago. Boy I miss the good ol' days lol.

On another note The Fox Float 32 is on It's way. It weighs a claimed 1700 grams uncut. Looking forward to that should be a huge upgrade shaving about 1.5lbs off my bike. I think my current stock SR Suntour XCR is a claimed 2500 grams. If the literature is accurate that is a 800 gram savings. Let's see what the scale says.

Once this fork is installed I will be considering looking into a SRAM GX Eagle crankset/DUB BB combo. I will keep you all updated as I make progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So went all in! I ordered the sram gx eagle boost crankset with 68-73mm dum bb and a sram 28t 3mm chainring along with the sram 11-36t cassette.

Let me know if the parts I ordered are correct cause if they are not I can at least cancel before they are shipped. I would appreciate it greatly, and thank you in advance.

Lots of stuff coming in soon.
 
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