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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Sub-22 pound full-suspension build project is moving right along. I'm buying all components first, then frame/fork. Probably Titus Racer-X.

My next step is purchasing the drivetrain components (Derailleurs, Cassette, Chain)

From this forum posting, I hear that going with road components like the Dura-Ace 12-27 cassette and derailleurs is the way to go...

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=60677
"One of the best ways I have found to loose weight on a mt. bike is to swap the mt. cassette for an Ultegra or Dura-Ace 12-27. Along with this you will need a compact drive up front. This reduction of chainring and cassette material results in some major weight loss of around 150-175 grams."

So, here's my spec list. Let me know if you have better ideas...

CURRENT COMPONENT | SPECED COMPONENT | WEIGHT SAVINGS:

Cassette
XT 270+ gr | 12-27 Dura-Ace (CS-7700) 180 gr | -90 gr

Rear Deraileur
XTR 952 short 211 gr | Dura-Ace 7800 10speed 185 gr | -26 gr

Front Deraileur
LX 145 gr | DA 7700 + adapter clamp 86g | -59 gr
[NOTE: I'm not going to buy the front derailleur until I buy my new frame.)

Chain
SRAM PC48 292 gr | KMC X-10 SL 240 gr | -52 gr

TOTAL WEIGHT SAVINGS: -227 grams! That's 1/2 a pound folks!

[Tune the Derailleurs with AL bolts and knock off another 30 grams!]

I already have a crankset. Last month I bought a NIB (new in box) Race Face Next LP crankset:
* Compact 94/58MM
* Square Taper
* 44/32/20 rings
* Aluminum SRP bolts
* All Aluminum rings (Yes, granny is al too!)
* NICE!

I want to go with 9 SPEED, NOT 10 Speed.

Let me know if this all sounds good, or if you have other better suggestions.

Also, where do I buy the KMC X-10 SL Chain???

Thanks! :)
 

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I love Pisgah
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3,406 Posts
Good choice in cranks/BB style:).

With the roadie cassette, throw away the 14t cog, then add an 11t from your XT. You'll need an 11t compatable aluminum lockring from Cambria($4 last year) or just use you old steel XT for now. Now you'll have 11t, 12t, 13t, 15t, 17t and so on....This mod will give back a small chuck of the overlap lost(from going to a road cassette) between front chainrings gear ranges. Altho it affects all 3 rings, most importantly you've otherwise shortened your middlerings useful speed/power range from both ends(12t/27t).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Note to self: Buy X10 SL (and Syntace F99 Stem) from Dirt Boy

Yeah Duckman,

I'm old school and want NOTHING to do with that ISIS or Outboard bearing crap. :D

I'll be buying the Action Tec bottom bracket too! Good stuff.

Thanks for the gearing tips. I'll do it. :)
 

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Recovering couch patato
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I think you're spending a fortune for just a couple grams. Next to the grams you save, note what you spent per gram. You may well find other places to save more weight with the same money. If you;re not on a budget, hey, enjoy the game!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey Cloxxki,

I gotta buy all this stuff anyway, as my old parts are now on my "wife's bike" (which I ride a lot!)

Wife's Bike - Built with Old Parts - Frame and Fork cost $220...







So for me I'm building a full-suspension bike from scratch and want it to be around 22 pounds. This will be a little tough as I'm going to buy a Titus Racer-X (which isn't super-light) and put disc brakes and a sturdy fork on it to make it light AND STRONG. In other words, I have to save weight everywhere I can and the drivetrain is a good place to save an extra 200-250 grams.

Most of this stuff can be bought cheaper on eBay...
 

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Rutnick said:
don't let axe here you say that. He's going ape over the fact that people still use square.
You are rude and you are misinterpreting completely what I have said. I was discussing with you presuming that you have an honest opinion, but now I think you are just rude and dumb. Have a nice day.
 
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