Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Gnarbar
Joined
·
320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Currently running DT Swiss 340's. 20mm front and 12mm x 150mm rear (bolt on).

If I go to CK then I don't lose me any weight, unless I drop from a steel to aluminum driveshell - sweet as hell though. Hadley awesome hubs, but the same, no weight loss.

Hope Pro II's will drop over 100 grams but that's with an aluminum driveshell.

So as I'm a big boy and ripping DH trails hard, often, including bike park, should I stick to steel driveshell for durability ?

Not a weight weenie deal :nono: I just need to trim weight of a big DH rig while having good solid hubs that will last a few years.
 

·
moaaar shimz
Joined
·
9,125 Posts
Depends..... do you have an aluminum cassette or a steel cassette? Do not mix an aluminum drive shell with a steel cassette!

If you want solid long-lasting hubs then Hadley is the perfect choice. Either aluminum or steel will last a long time.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
16,457 Posts
You can get a ProII with the SS driveshell.

However, I don't think you'll really get an appreciable difference. The 340's engagement system is very strong, owing to a few parts and 360 degrees of engagement, solidly locking the driveshell and hubshell together on power. I have a 240s, a 340, and the ProII. I like them all, but there's something elegantly simple of the few mechanical parts in star ratchet hubs.
 

·
Bike Hustler
Joined
·
822 Posts
scorpionsf said:
hubs arent really the place to drop weight, rims and tires are where its at, rotational weight is killer

your 340's are solid hubs and will last
I agree... mass at the rim/tire is weight loss you can feel in the responsiveness of the bikes handling.

you probly allready know that though
 

·
Gnarbar
Joined
·
320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
LoozinSkin said:
I agree... mass at the rim/tire is weight loss you can feel in the responsiveness of the bikes handling.
Yeah I'm on that, it's my #1 priority.

I'm still not sure about this steel v aluminum gig. I'm a big guy doing lots of hard DH and bike park. I hear that I need s/steel for sure. If I could go to aluminum then I'd lose another 100g easy e.g. with the CK.
 

·
Glad to Be Alive
Joined
·
43,010 Posts
tacubaya said:
Depends..... do you have an aluminum cassette or a steel cassette? Do not mix an aluminum drive shell with a steel cassette!

If you want solid long-lasting hubs then Hadley is the perfect choice. Either aluminum or steel will last a long time.
I agree,.....another 5 year plus same hub hadley fan
 

·
Bikes Rule
Joined
·
1,133 Posts
You can also go with a hub that has a Ti freehub body. I know Profile make a 12 x 150mm rear with a Ti freehub. I have an older FR440 set on my DH that has a Ti freehub body as well. Saves a little weight over the steel and is far stronger than aluminum.

I have been running Profile hubs for a good amunt of time and I love them. Currently running a SS rear hub with Ti shimano splined cassette driver on my DJ and a Profile 10 x 135 rear hub with Ti shimano body on my FR bike.

But I would keep the hubs and go with a lighter rim build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
I have to ask, "What's the point of losing 100g in the Hub?"

I mean, you say you are a heavy guy riding hard DH action. It's not like you are a XC racer.

100g at the hub is going to be barely noticable (purhaps psychologically). And if you are riding DH it's not like being lightweight is a top priority.

Reliability and strength are much more important here. Isn't it better to wait till the hubs explode before changing them? unless you are rich...

in that case buy me a set too (scrap that, I have Hadleys, they will last forever!)
 

·
moaaar shimz
Joined
·
9,125 Posts
TheDon said:
I have to ask, "What's the point of losing 100g in the Hub?"

I mean, you say you are a heavy guy riding hard DH action. It's not like you are a XC racer.

100g at the hub is going to be barely noticable (purhaps psychologically). And if you are riding DH it's not like being lightweight is a top priority.

Reliability and strength are much more important here. Isn't it better to wait till the hubs explode before changing them? unless you are rich...

in that case buy me a set too (scrap that, I have Hadleys, they will last forever!)
Not really.... reducing mass in the rear wheel/chainstay/whatever may improve suspension action a bit and ultimately improve small bump compilance.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top