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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my wife a pair of Hayes Stroker Trails and they were great for a good long while, good power + modulation, but over the past few weekends the lever seems to retract very slowly after pulling the brake and there is no modulation what-so-ever.

Anyone know what could be wrong? I bought 'em new OEM on Ebay so no warranty :madman:
 

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big_mountain_biker said:
I got my wife a pair of Hayes Stroker Trails and they were great for a good long while, good power + modulation, but over the past few weekends the lever seems to retract very slowly after pulling the brake and there is no modulation what-so-ever.

Anyone know what could be wrong? I bought 'em new OEM on Ebay so no warranty :madman:

I read something on the Hayes site today that said they had some issues just like what you're explaining and they have a cheap rebuild kit for them. Check their site or call them up!
 

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ride hard take risks
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Is this a new prob for the Mrs. since the last ride?? :confused: Let me know if ya need some help sounds like a little lube N bleed will fix er up, not that lube either bro. :rockon:

Hayes are awesome people give em a hollar. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
dogonfr said:
Is this a new prob for the Mrs. since the last ride?? :confused: Let me know if ya need some help sounds like a little lube N bleed will fix er up, not that lube either bro. :rockon:

Hayes are awesome people give em a hollar. :)
Its been going on to some extent over the past few weekends, this past weekend it got really bad, wound up locking up the front a couple of times but she bailed to her feet which was cool :thumbsup:

I'll see if I can get any help from Hayes, I typically find that manufacturers aren't too responsive to customers who don't buy stuff through one of their dealers. Hopefully that is not the case, although just a quick lube and bleed doesn't sound too painfully expensive.
 

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big_mountain_biker said:
Its been going on to some extent over the past few weekends, this past weekend it got really bad, wound up locking up the front a couple of times but she bailed to her feet which was cool :thumbsup:

I'll see if I can get any help from Hayes, I typically find that manufacturers aren't too responsive to customers who don't buy stuff through one of their dealers. Hopefully that is not the case, although just a quick lube and bleed doesn't sound too painfully expensive.
Glad to hear she didn't re-injure the re-injured thumb. :thumbsup:

Hays is good they are one of the last survivors of quality customer service. If you want you can head on over here & we can work it out, promise I wont start drinking beer till after repaired & no face plants. :cornut::cornut:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
dogonfr said:
Glad to hear she didn't re-injure the re-injured thumb. :thumbsup:

Hays is good they are one of the last survivors of quality customer service. If you want you can head on over here & we can work it out, promise I wont start drinking beer till after repaired & no face plants. :cornut::cornut:
Sweet, will see what I can pull off.

I'll definitely let you know if I can't figure it out :p
 

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dirt visionary
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Mine just started doing the same thing. I can apply the brake and the lever takes a few to go back to its proper spot. So If I have to feather or apply go apply I damn near lose my rear brake. I am just going to order another rebuild kit and hope that will fix the issue . $25 for a rebuild is alot better than a few weeks waiting for an answer or return .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Where did you find a master cylinder rebuild kit? The only rebuild kits I'm finding are the caliper kits, this sounds like its a master cylinder issue.
 

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Thats funny I am putting my old xt 4 pots back on this weekend.

Sorry it was a caliper rebuild kit. I think its a warped/sticky piston.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
According to the issues that others have reported it is an ungreased o-ring in the master cylinder causing the problem. If you rebuild the caliper and it works let me know and I'll try the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update!

They got back to me, the CSR was out of the office when I emailed him. His was SUPER nice and is sending out the repair kit via express mail today, for FREE, even without the warranty.

They really are one of the few remaining companies with great CS.
 

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BrassBalled DropbarNinja
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big_mountain_biker said:
Update!

They got back to me, the CSR was out of the office when I emailed him. His was SUPER nice and is sending out the repair kit via express mail today, for FREE, even without the warranty.

They really are one of the few remaining companies with great CS.
One thing about Hayes is that they always see that their customers are taken cared of... Mad props to Hayes :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
mrpercussive said:
One thing about Hayes is that they always see that their customers are taken cared of... Mad props to Hayes :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Yep definitely, mad props to Hayes :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Now we've just got to wait with bated breath until the Stroker Aces come out.



If they manage to make them feel as nice as the Stroker Trails then they definitely have another winner on their hands.
 

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big_mountain_biker said:
Yep definitely, mad props to Hayes :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Now we've just got to wait with bated breath until the Stroker Aces come out.



If they manage to make them feel as nice as the Stroker Trails then they definitely have another winner on their hands.
Those my friend are going to be the catz meow. They should be out pretty soon. :cornut:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Makes me kinda wish I would have waited instead of buying my Formulas. Or it can be an excuse to buy a V-10 or something to put those on :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
2nd Update.

So I got the lever repair kit from Hayes last week.

It consisted of some really nice clear instructions, 4 packs of grease, 4 extra snap rings in case you need them, a bleed fitting and an applicator for the grease.

I had to buy a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the push rod retaining clip, don't mind having an excuse to add new tools to the collection ;) Besides that the only other tool needed is a 2mm allen wrench.

I had to remove the lever pivot by unscrewing the set screw, then the lever was unscrewed using the tools free reach adjuster. The lever was then removed. Next I had to remove the pushrod. In order to do this I had to use the snap ring pliers to remove the push rod retaining ring. With the pushrod out the master piston/cylinder were accessible.

I used the supplied grease and applicator to push the piston down and grease in the inner surfaces of the cylinder. The piston then popped up and with some coercing I lifted the piston out a tiny bit to access the o-ring that was not greased. This was the most delicate part of the procedure since lifting the piston too far would let air into the system.

I then replaced the pushrod and retaining clip, screwed the lever back on. Then tested them out, they felt AMAZING. They really hadn't felt this nice the day we got 'em. In comparison the rear brake which I previously thought was good felt like crap. I decided to do that one too. Now they are both really nice.

I would suggest that any Stroker owners that feel that their levers are a bit sluggish try this out, it makes a huge difference.
 
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