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I am Walt
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I posted this in the Drivetrain forum and am also interested in the local perspective:

"The last few rear cassettes I've had have been 11/34 (very latest is SRAM), but now I'm looking at going to 11/32 (Shimano). Primary reason is being stronger after doing alot of SS-ing at 32:18. Biggest difference seems to be that the gearing on the large cog (32T vs. 34T) will be slight taller, thus slightly "harder" when I want granny-like spinning.

What do you think? Go with 11/32 or stick with 11/34?"

I had no idea this would get so technical.
 

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waltaz said:
I posted this in the Drivetrain forum and am also interested in the local perspective:

"The last few rear cassettes I've had have been 11/34 (very latest is SRAM), but now I'm looking at going to 11/32 (Shimano). Primary reason is being stronger after doing alot of SS-ing at 32:18. Biggest difference seems to be that the gearing on the large cog (32T vs. 34T) will be slight taller, thus slightly "harder" when I want granny-like spinning.

What do you think? Go with 11/32 or stick with 11/34?"

I had no idea this would get so technical.
I say go with 11/34 because it's SRAM. I can't stand Shimano cassettees, but that is my opinion.
 

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sprocket
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waltaz said:
I posted this in the Drivetrain forum and am also interested in the local perspective:

"The last few rear cassettes I've had have been 11/34 (very latest is SRAM), but now I'm looking at going to 11/32 (Shimano). Primary reason is being stronger after doing alot of SS-ing at 32:18. Biggest difference seems to be that the gearing on the large cog (32T vs. 34T) will be slight taller, thus slightly "harder" when I want granny-like spinning.

What do you think? Go with 11/32 or stick with 11/34?"

I had no idea this would get so technical.
I had that same thought and went with the 11-32. I now wished I hadn't spent the cash on it. I keep looking for that extra gear when I am in the middle chainring up front. On my full susser, it really is needed on those steep, technical climbs. I ride my SS quite a bit, and everytime I get on the full susser, I have to use every gear that is available to me. SS only gives me a smoother and consistent spin all around the mountains.
 

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Ouch, I am hot!
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I changed my entire drivetrain and switched from Shimano chainrings and a Shimano 32 cassette to Race Face chainrings and a 34 Sram cassette. Ever since the change, my drivetrain has been running poorly. First, when backpedaling, the chain skips down to the granny (this never happened before). Second, the drivetrain continues to drive even after I stop pedaling (that is, if the wheel is spinning, the chain will be rolling forward (this is seen when on the workstand or walking the bike). Finally, when riding but coasting, the chain will sort of snag and loose tension rather than stay taut. I have no idea is this is due to the Race Face chainrings, the Sram cassette, hub issue, whatever.

On to your question. I like having a 34. More choices. Having a 34 instead of a 32 will decrease your larger gear options, ie: bigger spacing between the lower gears. However, 90% of my riding is in the three smallest gears, thus I like to have more options there.
 

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Beyond the stars
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G if you changed your rear cassette . . .

from Shimano to Sram you would have needed to re-adjust your rear derailaierialdlkjf(dang I can't spell) Did you do that, or did you just assume "what the heck, 9 spd is 9 spd" that MIGHT be why you are having problems.

The best way to adjust rear D's are to break the chain and remove it, then set the "high" and "low" limit screws on the rear D. If that doesn't fix the "backpedaling" problems, then your D Hanger is bent, even just 1mm off and you will have problems. I've ran RaceFace chainrings as replacements and had no problems. As far as dragging your chain in the dirt, maybe it's too long (check the lenght and remove a link or two if needed) but I'm sure you thought of that, right?

Give the "ole drivetrain" a little fine tuning and she'll be running smooth a "butta baby"

As far as the 32/34 Q's: isn't this a mathamatical kinda thing? when you guys run a single speed, you talk about 2 to 1 or whatever ratio you are running, so think about the ratio's that are NOT possible with a 32 and/or the ratios with a 34 and your answer will be "self-evident"
 

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I think I need to Upgrade
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waltaz said:
I posted this in the Drivetrain forum and am also interested in the local perspective:

"The last few rear cassettes I've had have been 11/34 (very latest is SRAM), but now I'm looking at going to 11/32 (Shimano). Primary reason is being stronger after doing alot of SS-ing at 32:18. Biggest difference seems to be that the gearing on the large cog (32T vs. 34T) will be slight taller, thus slightly "harder" when I want granny-like spinning.

What do you think? Go with 11/32 or stick with 11/34?"

I had no idea this would get so technical.
Go with a 12-34. I am running an 11-32 and I find myself always looking for that 34 on long steep climbs. By going with the 12-34 it helps prevent having a bigger jump between gears, also how often do you get into the 11t?

To the person that is having drag issues with the chain; It sounds like there is something wrong with your free hub. It is possible that the RF rings and Sram cassette are causing a problem but I highly doubt it. Also having the derailures adjusted properly shouldn't cause a problem such as this. I would look to your hub/freehub first. What kind of hub is it that you have?
 

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DJBiker said:
from Shimano to Sram you would have needed to re-adjust your rear derailaierialdlkjf(dang I can't spell) Did you do that, or did you just assume "what the heck, 9 spd is 9 spd" that MIGHT be why you are having problems.

The best way to adjust rear D's are to break the chain and remove it, then set the "high" and "low" limit screws on the rear D. If that doesn't fix the "backpedaling" problems, then your D Hanger is bent, even just 1mm off and you will have problems. I've ran RaceFace chainrings as replacements and had no problems. As far as dragging your chain in the dirt, maybe it's too long (check the lenght and remove a link or two if needed) but I'm sure you thought of that, right?

Give the "ole drivetrain" a little fine tuning and she'll be running smooth a "butta baby"

As far as the 32/34 Q's: isn't this a mathamatical kinda thing? when you guys run a single speed, you talk about 2 to 1 or whatever ratio you are running, so think about the ratio's that are NOT possible with a 32 and/or the ratios with a 34 and your answer will be "self-evident"
huh? First off, who says you need to adjust the derailleur when going from Shimano to SRAM? Second, take the chain off to adjust the H and L? So, how do you determine of the H and L is set properly. Those settings are to make sure you can't shift into the spokes of off the cassettee, so you better damn well have your chain on when you check these.
 

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Ouch, I am hot!
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AzSpeedfreek said:
Go with a 12-34. I am running an 11-32 and I find myself always looking for that 34 on long steep climbs. By going with the 12-34 it helps prevent having a bigger jump between gears, also how often do you get into the 11t?

To the person that is having drag issues with the chain; It sounds like there is something wrong with your free hub. It is possible that the RF rings and Sram cassette are causing a problem but I highly doubt it. Also having the derailures adjusted properly shouldn't cause a problem such as this. I would look to your hub/freehub first. What kind of hub is it that you have?
I agree. I don't see it being a derailleur adjustment issue. I have a King hub. Worked fine until the change. Thus, perhaps something was done to it during the change, but that seems unlikely. Some people have suggested that the Race Face rings may have something to do with it. The chain may also be a bit stretched.
 

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Beyond the stars
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Ok, clarification

If your chain continues to "spin" when walking your bike, maybe your hub is draging, or maybe your "chain line" is so off that there is minor "binding" on the chain that "everything is just "stuck together"

If your rear derailleur is "significantly" out of adjustment and the "limits of sideways bending" of the chain is the only thing keeping it from hitting the frame, or going into the spokes, well that could cause it. And maybe your very expensive King hub is all "gunked up" (that's a technical term)

However if, as you mentioned in your post, when you pedal backwards your chain "shifts" to a different cog, well then I say your derailleur is out of adjustment. Therefore: "who says to set the limit screws with the chain off? Well, me and ALL THE MANUFACTURES. (that ones is for effhe) The instructions say to "line up the derailleur pully with the largest and smallest cog" to set the limits. (see illustration below) If you try to do this with the chain installed, as Jeff suggests, you will get a "false" reading because of the tension the chain puts on the cables as you try to make the adjustments. It requires nothing more than "pure logic" and a simple glance at the manufacture instructions to see that is the "suggested" method for proper adjustment.

Once you know your "top" and "bottom" gears are smooth, you can "adjust" the middle cog (gears 2 thru 7) "engagements" with the knurled nob at the derailleur or shifters.

If after you have your rear derailleur fully adjusted and working smoothly you will be able to determine if you hub is draging or not. If you skip this step you will never really know if the problem lies in your hub or some other part of your drivetrain.
 

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Sharp rocks hurt...
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You know, this would make a great pole for the home page. I like my 11/34, on long steep climbs its nice to be able to spin at 100 rpm instead of hammering up wishing you had a a few more teath.
 

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Ouch, I am hot!
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DJBiker said:
If your chain continues to "spin" when walking your bike, maybe your hub is draging, or maybe your "chain line" is so off that there is minor "binding" on the chain that "everything is just "stuck together"

If your rear derailleur is "significantly" out of adjustment and the "limits of sideways bending" of the chain is the only thing keeping it from hitting the frame, or going into the spokes, well that could cause it. And maybe your very expensive King hub is all "gunked up" (that's a technical term)

However if, as you mentioned in your post, when you pedal backwards your chain "shifts" to a different cog, well then I say your derailleur is out of adjustment. Therefore: "who says to set the limit screws with the chain off? Well, me and ALL THE MANUFACTURES. (that ones is for effhe) The instructions say to "line up the derailleur pully with the largest and smallest cog" to set the limits. (see illustration below) If you try to do this with the chain installed, as Jeff suggests, you will get a "false" reading because of the tension the chain puts on the cables as you try to make the adjustments. It requires nothing more than "pure logic" and a simple glance at the manufacture instructions to see that is the "suggested" method for proper adjustment.

Once you know your "top" and "bottom" gears are smooth, you can "adjust" the middle cog (gears 2 thru 7) "engagements" with the knurled nob at the derailleur or shifters.

If after you have your rear derailleur fully adjusted and working smoothly you will be able to determine if you hub is draging or not. If you skip this step you will never really know if the problem lies in your hub or some other part of your drivetrain.
Skinny, I think DJ is correct here. Now, why don't you two kiss and make up once and for all. This is still the old wounds from the "jobless" post a year or more ago. Thanks for the advice. Walt, I would normally say I am sorry for hijacking the thread, but to you I say, STFU.
 

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RHRF!
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King Hub Problem/Cassette Advice

Dir -

I have a CK rear hub (pre-ISO) and it has just started to develop some drag. I haven't noticed it while pedaling but if you walk the bike, the crank arms will slowly rotate. I was told I needed a rebuild on the King cassette body and all should be fine.

Walt -

Since I'm old and fat, I would always recommend the higher gearing (11-34). You might even think about a 20-t titanium granny gear for your 45th birthday present...

Pat
 

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I run 11-34 on my Liquid... I'm going with 12-34 when my current cassette finally dies.

I like to run XT because of the spider. I'm also not a fan on the big jump the SRAM cassette has between the 34 and the next smaller one.

I like having the 'bail-out' 34t gear, plus if I want to suffer and grind I have the SS.

AzSpeedfreek said:
Go with a 12-34. I am running an 11-32 and I find myself always looking for that 34 on long steep climbs. By going with the 12-34 it helps prevent having a bigger jump between gears, also how often do you get into the 11t?

To the person that is having drag issues with the chain; It sounds like there is something wrong with your free hub. It is possible that the RF rings and Sram cassette are causing a problem but I highly doubt it. Also having the derailures adjusted properly shouldn't cause a problem such as this. I would look to your hub/freehub first. What kind of hub is it that you have?
 

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Dirdir said:
Skinny, I think DJ is correct here. Now, why don't you two kiss and make up once and for all. This is still the old wounds from the "jobless" post a year or more ago. Thanks for the advice. Walt, I would normally say I am sorry for hijacking the thread, but to you I say, STFU.
You think?

It's a waste of time to take the damn chain off.
 

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Ouch, I am hot!
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skinny-tire said:
You think?

It's a waste of time to take the damn chain off.
I don't know, but can't you guys just make up already and move on. Anger, bitterness, hate, anger, bitterness, distaste, repulsion, revulsion, propulsion, retro-dressing, lost cause, hurt, pain, lost in the darkenss, aversion, horror, loathing revolt.

PS: Skinny, I need a new dishwasher, any tips? I am assuming you recently purchased one because of your house thingy.
 

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Dirdir said:
I don't know, but can't you guys just make up already and move on. Anger, bitterness, hate, anger, bitterness, distaste, repulsion, revulsion, propulsion, retro-dressing, lost cause, hurt, pain, lost in the darkenss, aversion, horror, loathing revolt.

PS: Skinny, I need a new dishwasher, any tips? I am assuming you recently purchased one because of your house thingy.
Hell ya baby. Try Allstate Appliances. They are typically about 20-30% below MSRP. We got a stainless steel dishwasher for just over $300. List price was almost $500
 

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I think I need to Upgrade
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DirDir:
When was the last time you had your hub serviced? How old is it? It sounds like it needs to either be adjusted or it needs a full service done on it. While it is possible I really doubt that the new cassette, chain, and chain rings are the cause of the problem. I have seen the problem you are having on a brand new King hub and it was because the hub needed to wear in and the grease needed to be distributed (from use) in the freewheel in the hub. Another idea that I have about it is that the wheel is not fully in the dropouts and this is causing some binding (it's just an idea).

As far as the chain droping down on the cassette does this happen when you back pedal? Does it happen in the big ring, middle ring, small ring, or all of the above?


DJBiker:

For the initial set up of a rear derailure I do agree with you on how to set it up as far as the limiting screws go. However after you put the chain on the derailure IS going to act differently, you WILL have to adjust the limiting screws again with the chail on because if the pulley is perfectly lined up with the biggest and/or smallest cog (you will see this the most with the biggest cog) the chain may not and most likely will not go onto those cogs. With the low adjustment screw it usualy has to be adjusted so that the der. will go just a little bit past the big cog in order for the chain to move up on to it, but not so far that the chain drops off the inside or the der. hits the spokes. Now if the der. hits the spokes then there is a very high probability that the der. hanger is bent and is in need of being realigned.
 
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