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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the official tool, that I should use, to remove and tighten the center cap to the hub before putting it back on to the lefty shock? I just finished dishing and truing my rim and want to make sure the center cap is on there tight without messing up the holes via needle-nose pliers or something.
 

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I think it suggests only 13 pounds of torque, which is barely above finger tight.

Couple weeks ago, I actually had mine back out on me on the trail. I screwed it on finger tight, I think it is reverse thread, and then used a single hex head from a multi-tool, inserted into one of the very small holes to tighten the rest of the way.
 

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i use a park tools pin spanner;

<img src=https://media.rei.com/media/438510.jpg>
 

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DFYFZX said:
If you get sick of your CDale cap at some point, an upgrade to the Project321 cap is highly advised;) Use your stock CDale bolt with it if/when you upgrade because the P321 bolt is a soft alloy, not steel, that can be boogered up if you don't use a torque wrench.

http://www.project321.com/bikeleftyhubcapkit.php
I like this idea of the 321, but as above my concern is using a soft blot. Anyone out there had any issues with the softer bolt or 321 cap?
 

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DFYFZX said:
The 321 cap is no softer than the CDale cap but the 321 bolt is. I'm using the stock CDale steel bolt with the 321 cap and have had no issues whatsoever.
Hi guys, we use an aluminum bolt and in the beginning we machined a 6mm hex in
them. We found out that by using a 6mm hex we where to close to the o-ring groove
and after overtorqing or even many installations using proper torque the hex would stretch
out and potentially round out entirely. We corrected the issure by changing to a 5mm hex
that left a little more material between the hex and the o-ring groove. We also replaced the 6mm bolts with 5mm bolts (for free) to anybody that had our kit with a 6mm hex in it. DFYFZX, did you ever get a replacement bolt? We'd be happy to send you one if your willing to try it. Let me be clear about this too, we have never had or been informed of a bolt breakage. This was a hex rounding issue and was never a safety concern. As always feel free to call or e-mail us with any questions.
 

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pumpkinbiter said:
Hi guys, we use an aluminum bolt and in the beginning we machined a 6mm hex in
them. We found out that by using a 6mm hex we where to close to the o-ring groove
and after overtorqing or even many installations using proper torque the hex would stretch
out and potentially round out entirely. We corrected the issure by changing to a 5mm hex
that left a little more material between the hex and the o-ring groove. We also replaced the 6mm bolts with 5mm bolts (for free) to anybody that had our kit with a 6mm hex in it. DFYFZX, did you ever get a replacement bolt? We'd be happy to send you one if your willing to try it. Let me be clear about this too, we have never had or been informed of a bolt breakage. This was a hex rounding issue and was never a safety concern. As always feel free to call or e-mail us with any questions.
I never had problems with my 321 bolt, I just chose to use the CDale bolt since it was there and I don't trust myself with alloy bolts in certain situations. I always use a torque wrench when I'm working at home but when I'm on the trail trying to tighten bolts with my multi tool, I don't want to risk mangling a bolt 25 miles from my truck:nono: To be clear, I never had issues with your bolt, but I have rounded out alloy bolts on the trail in the past and didn't want to chance it with a bolt as vital as the one that holds my wheel on. Just for the record, I own your truing adapters, your hub, your bonded Lefty conversion and the cap. I LIKE your stuff and rock my free 321 T-shirt every chance I get. would recommend your stuff to anyone, anytime:thumbsup:
 

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DFYFZX said:
I never had problems with my 321 bolt, I just chose to use the CDale bolt since it was there and I don't trust myself with alloy bolts in certain situations. I always use a torque wrench when I'm working at home but when I'm on the trail trying to tighten bolts with my multi tool, I don't want to risk mangling a bolt 25 miles from my truck:nono: To be clear, I never had issues with your bolt, but I have rounded out alloy bolts on the trail in the past and didn't want to chance it with a bolt as vital as the one that holds my wheel on. Just for the record, I own your truing adapters, your hub, your bonded Lefty conversion and the cap. I LIKE your stuff and rock my free 321 T-shirt every chance I get. would recommend your stuff to anyone, anytime:thumbsup:
DFYFZX, thanks for the clarification on that. I thought maybe you had a bad experience with one of the first generation bolts. You should use whatever your comfortable with, it does take a little extra effort to not over torque the bolt. I can see how it would get tiresome if you have to remove your wheel for transport. Maybe we'll offer up a titanium bolt option for the cap kit someday. Oh, and thanks for being such a loyal customer!
We hope to have some new goodies for you soon.
 

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pumpkinbiter said:
DFYFZX, thanks for the clarification on that. I thought maybe you had a bad experience with one of the first generation bolts. You should use whatever your comfortable with, it does take a little extra effort to not over torque the bolt. I can see how it would get tiresome if you have to remove your wheel for transport. Maybe we'll offer up a titanium bolt option for the cap kit someday. Oh, and thanks for being such a loyal customer!
We hope to have some new goodies for you soon.
I've noticed from the several times I have put the lefty wheel back on that when I tighten the bolt, it just stops. I would rather use my torque wrench, but as I screw it in, there does not seem to be increase in tension. This is my first lefty and only have a couple weeks of experience so far with it. So when you say torque, do you find it has a clear stopping point and to not tighten beyond that?
 

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lowpsihighspeed said:
I've noticed from the several times I have put the lefty wheel back on that when I tighten the bolt, it just stops. I would rather use my torque wrench, but as I screw it in, there does not seem to be increase in tension. This is my first lefty and only have a couple weeks of experience so far with it. So when you say torque, do you find it has a clear stopping point and to not tighten beyond that?
By tourqe I mean the specified torque by the manufacturer of the bolt. In our case
it's 90 in lbs. This spec is for the Project321 bolt only, not your stock bolt.

I don't know why you would feel like there is no resistance on you bolt as you tighten it.
The hub bearins are a slight press onto the lefty axle so you should feel some resistance.
Bearing I.D.s are ground and very acurate and consistant. The lefty axle is machined and still very acurate and consistant but I have felt big differences between the way a hub presses onto one lefty and the next. I wouldn't worry about it unless you can feel wobble
in your front wheel after everything is tight. Tighten you bolt until it stops and then properly torque it with you torque wrench. Hope that helps, if you still have questions feel free to call us. Even if you don't have our hub or cap/bolt or adapter we'll try to help.
 

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pumpkinbiter said:
By tourqe I mean the specified torque by the manufacturer of the bolt. In our case
it's 90 in lbs. This spec is for the Project321 bolt only, not your stock bolt.

I don't know why you would feel like there is no resistance on you bolt as you tighten it.
The hub bearins are a slight press onto the lefty axle so you should feel some resistance.
Bearing I.D.s are ground and very acurate and consistant. The lefty axle is machined and still very acurate and consistant but I have felt big differences between the way a hub presses onto one lefty and the next. I wouldn't worry about it unless you can feel wobble
in your front wheel after everything is tight. Tighten you bolt until it stops and then properly torque it with you torque wrench. Hope that helps, if you still have questions feel free to call us. Even if you don't have our hub or cap/bolt or adapter we'll try to help.
Thanks pumpkinbiter!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
:madman: I can not get my lefty rim to where the hub is centered. When I set the dishing tool on the disc side, the check the other side, there's always a lot of room between the center gauge bolt. :madman: What am I doing wrong? I'm using the Project 321 Truing Spacers and the mavic 117 disc rim that came with the 07 Prophet 4. :rolleyes: I'll try again next Friday. :)
 

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mgreen said:
:madman: I can not get my lefty rim to where the hub is centered. When I set the dishing tool on the disc side, the check the other side, there's always a lot of room between the center gauge bolt. :madman: What am I doing wrong? I'm using the Project 321 Truing Spacers and the mavic 117 disc rim that came with the 07 Prophet 4. :rolleyes: I'll try again next Friday. :)
Mgreen, not totally clear on what your saying. Is this a new rim that you laced up?
Is it a rim that your just checking dish on? Are the Project321 dishing spacers up against
the bearings of the hub? There should be no interference by the disc or the plastic cap that Cannondale uses on the left side of the hub. What happens on Friday?
 
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