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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 Lefty Speed DLR2 and after several miles of moderately bumpy riding over the normal rocks and roots the lockout lever "drifts" or "walks" its way from the off position to the lockout position.
I have to position the lever back to the off position several times during an 15 mile ride.
Anybody else dealt with this issue? :eekster:
 

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Fixin' shocks Day & Night
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Yes, Lots of folks here have had this issue. You need to remove the lockout lever and tension the top cap. It is the same wrench that is used for the shimano and FSA outboard bearing bottom brackets. Make sure it is good and tight and that will resolve this issue.
 

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I'd also check the 10 mm nut below the lockout lever itself (not the one that holds the lever inplace, the one under the lever!). They're supposed to be Loctited in place. Careful, they are aluminum, and strip easily. Just make sure it's snug.

Ever had the issue prior to now? There was a problem with negative springs that were wound backward, which caused the same thing to happen....:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I guess this is the top cap mentioned previously? I'll try that. I don't know if the Lefty always did that. I got the bike 2nd hand. The seller did mention that the fork was recently serviced and I'm hoping the top cap/10mm nut is just loose. Lefty's are to expensive to buy and replacement cost would cut into the good deal I got on the complete bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
MendonCycleSmith said:
I'd also check the 10 mm nut below the lockout lever itself (not the one that holds the lever inplace, the one under the lever!). They're supposed to be Loctited in place. Careful, they are aluminum, and strip easily. Just make sure it's snug.

Ever had the issue prior to now? There was a problem with negative springs that were wound backward, which caused the same thing to happen....:thumbsup:
Just looked at the Cannondale manual for the DLR2 and it cautions not to loosen or tighten this nut and makes no mention of loctite. And that is curious because the diagrams do mention where to apply grease for reassembly.
 

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Shawn Bruderly said:
it cautions not to loosen or tighten this nut and makes no mention of loctite.
Because loosening it too far causes things farther into the cartridge to potentially get out of place. Problem is, you'd never know till you tightened it back up, and found out you ruined some stuff.:madman:

They don't mention loctite since it's done as part of a factory assembly process, (not end user maintenance) and they just told you not to mess with it;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The more I tightened the cartridge bolt, the harder it was to turn the lockout lever, so in the end I compromised and tightned the bolt to a point that was still comfortable to use the lockout lever but would most likely keep the cartridge torqued properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
MendonCycleSmith said:
Because loosening it too far causes things farther into the cartridge to potentially get out of place. Problem is, you'd never know till you tightened it back up, and found out you ruined some stuff.:madman:

They don't mention loctite since it's done as part of a factory assembly process, (not end user maintenance) and they just told you not to mess with it;)
You mention the damage from leaving the nut to loose, but if the reverse happened and it was overtightened what could be the damages?
I'm just uneasy with trying to adjust to a snug setting when I don't have an inch lbs. to guide me and worry that my feel for what is snug might be overkill and ruin something in the fork cartridge.
And in the back of my mind in red flashing letters are Cannondale's admonition of do not tighten or loosen this nut. Now I'm afraid I've unlocked pandora's box inside my fork. :confused:
 

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If the lockout is still turning on and off, you're fine. Too loose? That nut will walk itself looser. Too tight? You're tightening an aluminum nut, onto an aluminum shaft. Stripping is what will happen. The Loctite allows for a nice snug of the nut, and then assures it stays there.

If you can turn the lockout knob freely, then it's not too tight, as you discovered already. I'd get some blue loctite, remove the lower nut in question, don't push or pull on the shaft, put a drop down low on the shaft, near the black top cap, then resnug to a level you found worked before, and leave it. Use care, it's easy to cross thread the nut onto the shaft, it should go easily with fingers only....
 

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I have a similar issue. Same as what he describes only opposite. If it is not locked out, it is fine. However if it is locked out, a few good bumps and the lockout lever moves to off. I think my bike is telling me "why are you riding this locked out you idiot" =) Would tightening that same nut help my issues as well? I don't ride locked out to often so I'm not to worried about it, but I would like it to operate properly.

Thanks guys!
 

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XtoZ said:
I have a similar issue.
Worth checking on, albeit, carefully, as outlined above. If it doesn't have any impact, I'd have the negative spring looked at, it may be one of the reverse wound ones that got into a bunch of forks by accident....
 
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