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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, I'm aware of Project 321 & the lefty-for-all options but I have a different enquiry... I want to use my lefty on a non-c'dale frame but I want to increase the lefty's axle to crown and not lift the stem on the new frame.
I know due to the new frames headtube length I will have 10-20mm of 'slack' to fill with spacers, normally above the top headset. The frame I want to fit my lefty to, normally would have a a-to-c fork of around 520mm, so by using the std setup (510mm) I'd be increasing the head angle and lifting the stem, not something I want to do...
So can you put the "spacers" underneath the lower race?
(using either a project 321 or lefty-4-all conversion kit)

Madness?
Trouble is I've converted my Lefty max to an air damper and since found I prefer 29ers, but am reluctant to sell the lefty and don't like any of c'dale 29er's (sacrilege!). So want to use my lefty (converted for use as a 29er) on either my current 120mm 29er frame (not worried about the drop to 110mm travel) or a new 120mm one without changing there geometry's.

PS: I have emailed Project 321, but had no reply (in a month).
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Come on ppl, 92 viewings and not even one reply just to tell me I'm daft! ;)

Anyway update wise, after I emailed Project 321 again, a very apologetic Jake mailed to say it's not possible using their kit (well definitely not on the tapered kit and just not recommended with the std).
BUT a local C'dales part supplier says it may well be possible (doesn't suggest it a good or bad idea) using the Lefty-4-all adapter... Waiting for him to give me ring, so I can go see an adapter in the flesh... :eekster:
 

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ballbuster
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I dunno what to tell you. On the bonded clamp Lefty Max's, you can't really make them any longer, A to C. Is 510mm correct for the 140mm fork (reduced to 110mm for 29er use)? Somehow, I thought it was longer than that.

On a removable clamped Lefty, you can mess with the A to C a bit, depending on how long your headtube is.

All of my efforts to lengthen a Lefty (like, a 120mm version into a 140mm version) by shortening the bottom piston tube resulted in hard top-out clunking, even with a bearing reset.
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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A Max 140's a2c is 520, which I think, solves the issue, no?

Pimpbot, a 120 to 140 is as simple as cutting 20 off the throat of the upper air piston, (i've done a fair number of them and never heard this complaint) and once you do a bearing reset, should be trouble free. Something else is missing in the equation here.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pimpbot, I'm looking at fitting it to a non-cannondale frame with a headtube of 110mm... so I have 27mm (headset dependant) that could have "underneath" the lower crownrace, rather than above... hense I can increase the a-c

MedonCS - No, the one I have next to me.. it's defintely 510mm

I have now had a reply from Project 321, it's not something they recommend but have come across another MTBR user whose already done it. Had a look a Cannondale Lefty-4-all and as long as I don't go over 10mm, I can see if working fine (though again not recommended by the supplier)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
..it's unused from a service, so I doubt/hope it needs reseting.. and is definitely 510mm A-C.
We are talking about the C'dale Lefty Max 140mm? (2006 flavour)
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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My apologies, just checked, it is 510, yes. No idea, my brain overfloweth this time of year.....

My only thought would be to toss a 5 mm CK base plate on which will raise you half the distance, and ride.

If you actually notice 5mm of a2c in 140 mm of movement, you are far more perceptive than most!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
it more about the bike frame geometry I want to use it on being at the steep end of what I prefer, and would like to make it slacker definitely not steeper, but will live with it trying to keep it 'std'. Will look into the CK base plate
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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I understand that :)

Trying to make the most, with the least, you want to use your existing fork on a new frame.

Hear me out. Frame is built to 520 a2c. This stock geo will be a touch steep for you apparently.

Perhaps you have personal experiences that let you know you are sensitive enough to really, really feel a difference of 5 to 10 mm on a suspended front end, if so, all good. I cannot.

It's 510, hardly enough to even really notice in most cases. Add to that, plunging through 100+ mm of travel is going to be far more noticeable than the 5 to 10mm of overall height loss. Split the difference by using a CK tall base plate, and that gets less, but is still steeper than you'd like.

Please know, I'm just trying to get you over the hump of sweating minutia, and into sweating on the trail!

Since no really solid option appears to work, you can either deal with it, or buy another frame (or fork), which I doubt is in the cards right now....

You might consider using a 2.4 tire up front, a few more mm's taller, or, if it's at all possible, use a Knard 29+ tire and gain even more height.
 

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ballbuster
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A Max 140's a2c is 520, which I think, solves the issue, no?

Pimpbot, a 120 to 140 is as simple as cutting 20 off the throat of the upper air piston, (i've done a fair number of them and never heard this complaint) and once you do a bearing reset, should be trouble free. Something else is missing in the equation here.....
Back to our other conversation.... Is this because of the Brown PBR damper? Did you say the Lefty Max chassis I have is limited to 130mm of travel, and won't go to 140mm?
 
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