Ttt?
Lefty 140 Max Air, dead spot at top, rebound doesn't work
I searched the forum and google for hours before wasting your time with my post, I haven't found a solution yet...
I have a 2010 Lefty Carbon Max 140 PBR (air spring) reduced 30mm for my 29er. My rep set it up and put an air volume spacer too before I bought it.
It's been the best fork on earth, super super awesome. Had it about 4 months now
last week it started clunking on a ride. Took it home and did the bearing reset. Helped the clunking a LOT. Now there is about 20mm of dead spot at the top of the travel, it's like there is no spring there for that 20mm, feels really weird when you are standing on the bike pushing it down and up. When riding it actually feels fine.
But the rebound also doesn't do anything, its too fast and the knob doesn't change the setting at all, this also just happened.
Am I low on oil? I can't find documentation anywhere on how much oil or how to change the oil on this fork.
Seemed that doing the bearing reset some oil leaked out, not a lot, just like some drips on the fork. I never saw any oil leaking other than when I did the reset.
And while I have your attention is there any way to make the lockout stiffer? It still bobs a bit when the lockout is on, wondering if there is any way to change this. I have access to a prototyping shop and 3d printer so i can make any of the parts needed.
Help!
I have a 2010 Lefty Carbon Max 140 PBR (air spring) reduced 30mm for my 29er. My rep set it up and put an air volume spacer too before I bought it.
It's been the best fork on earth, super super awesome. Had it about 4 months now
last week it started clunking on a ride. Took it home and did the bearing reset. Helped the clunking a LOT. Now there is about 20mm of dead spot at the top of the travel, it's like there is no spring there for that 20mm, feels really weird when you are standing on the bike pushing it down and up. When riding it actually feels fine.
But the rebound also doesn't do anything, its too fast and the knob doesn't change the setting at all, this also just happened.
Am I low on oil? I can't find documentation anywhere on how much oil or how to change the oil on this fork.
Seemed that doing the bearing reset some oil leaked out, not a lot, just like some drips on the fork. I never saw any oil leaking other than when I did the reset.
And while I have your attention is there any way to make the lockout stiffer? It still bobs a bit when the lockout is on, wondering if there is any way to change this. I have access to a prototyping shop and 3d printer so i can make any of the parts needed.
Help!
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Hey Luke, you might have better luck cross-posting to the Cannondale section.
Lol what's up dude!
Spring pre tension
The spring has two nuts and a cap at the top. If it is loose it will clunk, and you won't have any contact with the spring, you can lift the front wheel and have the dead spot.
Lots of information over on the Cannondale section.
The spring has two nuts and a cap at the top. If it is loose it will clunk, and you won't have any contact with the spring, you can lift the front wheel and have the dead spot.
Lots of information over on the Cannondale section.
There is no spring, this is an air fork.
The "clunk" and dead top out feeling might be the feeling of the solo-air piston self balancing. It certainly shouldn't be 20MM worth of movement in the dead zone though, only a few MM. There really isn't much to go wrong in a normal solo-air spring, so unless Cannondale did something strange with the tech, I would expect it to be quite reliable.
As for the damper, you are on your own, I have no clue whats going on there. Have you considered just shipping it back to c-dale? it should be under warranty yet being a 2010 model.
As for the damper, you are on your own, I have no clue whats going on there. Have you considered just shipping it back to c-dale? it should be under warranty yet being a 2010 model.
Somehow I doubt they would fix it for free. I'll probably just send it to Mendon tomorrow if I get no further guidance.
I have similar "problem". When I turn to lockout, the suspension it is not really dead end (stiff), it still have some play. Wondering is this normal?
It is highly likely that the oil damper either is not bled properly or that you have incorrect oil volume. Therefore, you will have movement before lockout is engaged. This can happen if you have a leak, if you have poor seals, if your oil is contaminated, or if the oil is simply breaking down through use or over time. It can also be the result of improper assembly or initial setup.
OMG, I just bought this bike, use it for one time and notice this problem!
What should I do?
I don't really trust the place where I bought this bike.
What should I do?
I don't really trust the place where I bought this bike.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Mountain Bike Reviews Forum
A forum community dedicated to Mountain Bike owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about bike parts, components, deals, performance, modifications, classifieds, trails, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Top Contributors this Month
View All
ilmfat
831 Replies
DIRTJUNKIE
473 Replies
Sparticus
399 Replies
Recommended Communities
