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I really like my triple shot but I would like a bit more light on the periphery of the beam. Does anyone have any ideas for upgrading the LEDs? Seems like it could be less $$ than selling and buying the triple pro.
LED upgrade for triple shot
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Picture of the inside of a triple shot
I removed the front cover and reflectors... Does this help anyone to know how difficult swapping LEDs would be?
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I removed the front cover and reflectors... Does this help anyone to know how difficult swapping LEDs would be?
If you remove the black plastic holder you will be able to see the bare emitters.
I have not opened one up myself, but I understand that they contain Lumiled Luxeon devices as bare emitters (not on stars). I have heard of a couple of riders upgrading the emitters to better binned Luxeons (which is a straight swap), but changing to a Cree XR-E or Seoul Semiconductor P4 emitter would be a big undertaking due to different sizes and physical layout.
If using the Cree XR-E emitters you would have to contend with isolating the bottom of the package (I have posted a few techniques on how to do this in the past), and then find suitable optics or reflectors that would fit back in the housing while retaining a decent focus and beam. You would also have to come up with a way of mounting the emitters so that they lined up properly. There would be a lot of playing around with spacing and sorting things out there.
Electrically you should be alright as the three emitters are wired in series and are supposed to be regulated. I can only assume that they have a simple constant current regulator of some description, which is housed in the battery pack. I understand the battery pack is made up of 10 AA cells with a capacity of 2.7Ah. It might be an idea to measure the current draw at the emitters to see what’s going on.
Perhaps if you were to pull your light apart a little further and take some more photos along with doing some measuring of the various components we may be able to help you complete such a mod, but you’ll have to be prepared to do a lot of stuffing around!
Dave.
I have not opened one up myself, but I understand that they contain Lumiled Luxeon devices as bare emitters (not on stars). I have heard of a couple of riders upgrading the emitters to better binned Luxeons (which is a straight swap), but changing to a Cree XR-E or Seoul Semiconductor P4 emitter would be a big undertaking due to different sizes and physical layout.
If using the Cree XR-E emitters you would have to contend with isolating the bottom of the package (I have posted a few techniques on how to do this in the past), and then find suitable optics or reflectors that would fit back in the housing while retaining a decent focus and beam. You would also have to come up with a way of mounting the emitters so that they lined up properly. There would be a lot of playing around with spacing and sorting things out there.
Electrically you should be alright as the three emitters are wired in series and are supposed to be regulated. I can only assume that they have a simple constant current regulator of some description, which is housed in the battery pack. I understand the battery pack is made up of 10 AA cells with a capacity of 2.7Ah. It might be an idea to measure the current draw at the emitters to see what’s going on.
Perhaps if you were to pull your light apart a little further and take some more photos along with doing some measuring of the various components we may be able to help you complete such a mod, but you’ll have to be prepared to do a lot of stuffing around!
Dave.
No, the slug on the XR-E is isolated so there is no need to bother for that LED. It's the P4 you need to isolate. However since the slug on a Luxeon isn't isolated either (but is -ve, whilst the P4 is +ve) the light should already have electrical isolation between the LED mount points anyway (in the commercial light I've pulled apart this seems to be achieved using an anodised heatsink plate).Low_Rider said:
Arguably there is more chance of the P4 working with stock optics than the XR-E, or at least better chance of getting optics which work.
The bottom of the substrate on the 7090 package used in the Cree XR-E is designed for SMD soldering, and has three pads which are positive and negative contacts, with an electrically isolated central pad for heat spreading. If the Cree XR-E is not on a star it will need to be isolated, otherwise there will be a dead short across the emitter. The Cree XR-E General and Thermal Management datasheets cover this to a degree.chrism said:
As you say the housing is likely to be hard anodized anyway, so it may not be an issue.
I thought I had posted a guide for implementing the Cree XR-E in projects, but it seems it was in a PM I sent to another member which I have since deleted. I will create a new thread explaining the various issues and solutions in the morning.
Ah, but if you're worrying about shorting the bottom pads you're presumably not planning on using them to connect to the LED, so simply cut the traces on either side of the LED to isolate them, which seems to be the standard solution with these when using the top connections.Low_Rider said:
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Now I know why I'm a motor head
Wow I hope you guys don't think I'm a wimp but this is getting over my head real fast
Still, I love the handiness and durability of my triple shot and it still needs a little help if I'm going to keep up when the Wed Night rides is going fast on terrain I don't ride regularly. The main problem is light on the periphery on fast twisty stuff.
You guys seem so knowledgeable I think maybe I should approach this differently. Given what you can see in my picture and your knowledge of the luxeon emitters which newer and better LED would provide the best combination of compatibility and performance?
Wow I hope you guys don't think I'm a wimp but this is getting over my head real fast
Still, I love the handiness and durability of my triple shot and it still needs a little help if I'm going to keep up when the Wed Night rides is going fast on terrain I don't ride regularly. The main problem is light on the periphery on fast twisty stuff.
You guys seem so knowledgeable I think maybe I should approach this differently. Given what you can see in my picture and your knowledge of the luxeon emitters which newer and better LED would provide the best combination of compatibility and performance?
I would bet you could change them to Seoul P4's without any problem. If they have stars you can just pry out the old LED's and pop in new Seoul's. You will need to shim the new ones with a small copper slug though. I replaced a 3W luxeon last week with a P4 and cut down a penny to be used as a shim.
Ignore our rambling rideandshoot, we tend to get a little carried away!
If you post some photos of the lens cap and optics, along with measurements like optic height and diameter, and housing depth from the base that the emitters sit on to the top of the housing, we'll see what we can work out for you.
You mention that you're struggling with your periphery vision, but is the light output in general enough for you? I'm just wondering if an optic swap might be an option rather then an emitter upgrade.
Dave.
If you post some photos of the lens cap and optics, along with measurements like optic height and diameter, and housing depth from the base that the emitters sit on to the top of the housing, we'll see what we can work out for you.
You mention that you're struggling with your periphery vision, but is the light output in general enough for you? I'm just wondering if an optic swap might be an option rather then an emitter upgrade.
Dave.
Don't want to highjack this thread, but I would like to ask Low_Rider's opinion on the new Princeton Tec Switchback LED lights. I read on an add that they used 3W Maxbright LEDs.Low_Rider said:Ignore our rambling rideandshoot, we tend to get a little carried away!
If you post some photos of the lens cap and optics, along with measurements like optic height and diameter, and housing depth from the base that the emitters sit on to the top of the housing, we'll see what we can work out for you.
You mention that you're struggling with your periphery vision, but is the light output in general enough for you? I'm just wondering if an optic swap might be an option rather then an emitter upgrade.
Dave.
What is your take on the lights and the LED used.
thx
Sorry but I have zero experience with the Switchback series unfortunately, I'd love to have a play with them!
I do know that they use Lumiled Luxeon emitters, and that they claim to be running them at 3 watts each (with one, two or three emitters depending on the light model). They run on Lithium Ion cells and feature plenty of burn time, and the lights appear to be well designed and constructed.
The man you want to talk to is [email protected], James posts here regularly and has an excellent Blog with plenty of quality information here to search through. He has a Switchback 2 on test, which will eventually end up in a sweet review later on. :thumbsup:
Cheers, Dave.
I do know that they use Lumiled Luxeon emitters, and that they claim to be running them at 3 watts each (with one, two or three emitters depending on the light model). They run on Lithium Ion cells and feature plenty of burn time, and the lights appear to be well designed and constructed.
The man you want to talk to is [email protected], James posts here regularly and has an excellent Blog with plenty of quality information here to search through. He has a Switchback 2 on test, which will eventually end up in a sweet review later on. :thumbsup:
Cheers, Dave.
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I like the Switchback 2. It has a cleaner beam pattern than the CatEye Double Shot.rideitall said:
I'll have beam shots up when my review -- the one that low-rider mentioned -- is finished... any day now. I am working overtime to get it wrapped up.
Triple Shot Pro / Princeton Tec Switchback 3
You also mentioned that the Switchback 2 had a cleaner beam pattern than the CatEye Double Shot.
Have you had a chance to compare the SB3 vs the TS Pro at least in terms of setting up a comparison shot like what was done with the TS and TS Pro.
One last question is regarding the ability to upgrade the LED in an off the shelf lightset. From a quick glance it looks the the Princeton Tec Switchback 3 can be opened up. What LEDs are used in the light and could these be upgraded/changed out to newer LEDs mentioned in other threds (Cree XR-Es or SSC P4s)
I am teetering on buying a SB3, so any info you can provide would be appreciated.
Many thanks for you help on this.
James, saw some of your posted info on the TS vs TS Pro (http://acidinmylegs.blogspot.com/2007/01/pro-or-no.html), the light from the TS Pro looks pretty damn good.[email protected] said:
You also mentioned that the Switchback 2 had a cleaner beam pattern than the CatEye Double Shot.
Have you had a chance to compare the SB3 vs the TS Pro at least in terms of setting up a comparison shot like what was done with the TS and TS Pro.
One last question is regarding the ability to upgrade the LED in an off the shelf lightset. From a quick glance it looks the the Princeton Tec Switchback 3 can be opened up. What LEDs are used in the light and could these be upgraded/changed out to newer LEDs mentioned in other threds (Cree XR-Es or SSC P4s)
I am teetering on buying a SB3, so any info you can provide would be appreciated.
Many thanks for you help on this.
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rideitall,rideitall said:
I do have beam shots taken at the same time to compare the SB3 and TSPro. They'll be part of the review that will be up this week.
As for upgrading the LEDs, I would not buy any commercial LED system with the plans to upgrade the emitters down the road. I don't have a good enough electrical background to even approach doing that -- I let the smoke out of the wires -- and, frankly, they are too costly to mess up. I do know that the optics aren't universal and what fits Luxeon LEDs doesn't fit Cree emitters.
I'll post here and on my blog when the review is live. It'll be soon now. A couple more late nights and I should have it.
As I mentioned previously, they use Lumiled Luxeon emitters driven at 3 watts per emitter. You can probably put any emitter and optic combination in lights like the Switchback series and the Cat Eye lights if you were prepared to research and put the time in, fabricating new parts and stuffing about getting things to fit.rideitall said:
Personally I agree with James to an extent, you are buying a light for the wrong reason if you're buying it in the mindset to upgrade the emitters straight away. You would be a lot better off saving your money and buying a light that will fill your needs to start with, or building a light yourself from scratch. :thumbsup:
Don't get me wrong, I'm all for modifying and playing around, but unless it's on an older inadequate light or you find a real bargain (not likely seeing they have only just hit the shelves so to speak) I think it's a bit silly.
Dave.
I appreciate your input on the matter. If I end up buying the lights I would not look attempt modifications right away (mostly because I am cluesless to this sort of thing) however down the road ... who knowsLow_Rider said:Don't get me wrong, I'm all for modifying and playing around, but unless it's on an older inadequate light or you find a real bargain (not likely seeing they have only just hit the shelves so to speak) I think it's a bit silly.
Dave.
For now I just want to know how good these lights are and really if they are worth the scratch. Because I don't have the know how to build these up from scratch I am left with off the shelf options. My older BLT halogen does not cut it, nor does my Nite-Hawk emitter (not the newer K2 verson). Lastly the HID is pretty pricey and has some very limiting features, although the light is the best, at least for now.
The PT Switchback 3's look to be good, are they perhaps better than the Triple Shot Pro ??? Looking for feedback and when done a read of the review from James.
Thanks again for the comments.
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Too anxious to get out and night ride
I know, my bad, but we are finally getting some decent weather up here and want to start getting out for some night rides.
I pretty much know which light I want to go with, just want some knowledgable info to back up my gut choice.
Jeff
I know, my bad, but we are finally getting some decent weather up here and want to start getting out for some night rides.
I pretty much know which light I want to go with, just want some knowledgable info to back up my gut choice.
Jeff
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