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MTBiker
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a few questions, hopefully someone can help.

1. Are SSC P4-U or Cree XR-E Q5 led's going to serve me better for making a bike light, or are they pretty much equal? I want a nice white light (not blue), and they can't get too hot. I will be running them at 700mA to 1050mA

2. Does anyone have input on the Ledil SSC P4 square optics?

3. I have read up on the AMC7135 available from DX. Basically the plan is to get the 1050mA version, and desolder one of the chips. (If I want 1050mA in later versions I would like the option that's why I'd get those). Can someone verify that this does in fact work? Also I plan on doing something like this https://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m267/kuksul08/ledlight.jpg except using 6 AA NiMh's as the power source, then one P4 before the driver, and one P4 controlled by the driver. That means around 4 volts for the driver and constant 700mA in the circuit.

4. Lastly (for now), regarding this setup, how can I incorporate a 5k 1W potentiometer that I have to allow full dimming ability? Can I just put it in series with the circuit or do I need to make a control deal (which I know nothing about)

Thanks to anyone who can help.
 

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kuksul08 said:
I have a few questions, hopefully someone can help.

1. Are SSC P4-U or Cree XR-E Q5 led's going to serve me better for making a bike light, or are they pretty much equal? I want a nice white light (not blue), and they can't get too hot. I will be running them at 700mA to 1050mA

2. Does anyone have input on the Ledil SSC P4 square optics?

3. I have read up on the AMC7135 available from DX. Basically the plan is to get the 1050mA version, and desolder one of the chips. (If I want 1050mA in later versions I would like the option that's why I'd get those). Can someone verify that this does in fact work? Also I plan on doing something like this https://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m267/kuksul08/ledlight.jpg except using 6 AA NiMh's as the power source, then one P4 before the driver, and one P4 controlled by the driver. That means around 4 volts for the driver and constant 700mA in the circuit.

4. Lastly (for now), regarding this setup, how can I incorporate a 5k 1W potentiometer that I have to allow full dimming ability? Can I just put it in series with the circuit or do I need to make a control deal (which I know nothing about)

Thanks to anyone who can help.
Not a lot between the SSC p4 U bin & the Cree Q5 in terms of lumens but due to the shape of the dome the SSC is better for a flood and the Q5 is better for a spot.

Most wide optics for the Q5 have some sort of frosting so you loose a bit of light (the spot optics tend to be clear) but wide optics for the SSC are clear so no light loss.

The SSC can have bit of a cooler tint and may be a little too cold looking for you.

Check out some Dinotte beam shots as they use SSC P4. to see if you like the tint.
 

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MTBiker
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yetibetty said:
Not a lot between the SSC p4 U bin & the Cree Q5 in terms of lumens but due to the shape of the dome the SSC is better for a flood and the Q5 is better for a spot.

Most wide optics for the Q5 have some sort of frosting so you loose a bit of light (the spot optics tend to be clear) but wide optics for the SSC are clear so no light loss.

The SSC can have bit of a cooler tint and may be a little too cold looking for you.

Check out some Dinotte beam shots as they use SSC P4. to see if you like the tint.
Thanks

Since I would have had to buy 6 optics for the SSC P4's, and with the XR-E optics being available on digikey, I changed my setup to incorporate the xr-e R2 (WG tint) now.

As of now I am trying to figure out how to make a control circuit for the amc7135 chips so that I can use the potentiometer and dim it. It doesn't even need to go 0-100%, just enough to save power when I don't need all the light, because there will be an on/off switch too.
 

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kuksul08 said:
As of now I am trying to figure out how to make a control circuit for the amc7135 chips so that I can use the potentiometer and dim it.
I'm not too electronics-savvy, so I'm not sure about running a potentiometer with that board. (You can do it with a BuckPuck driver....see the LED Supply website). But here's a link to a ton of info on those boards, including a way to combine it with another cheap DX board to create a multi-level driver (in post #18). These guys are working with the 1400mA version of that board, ending up with a 2500mA multi-level driver...so some figuring will still be necessary to get it down to 1000mA or less.

JZ

EDIT: Duuuh! reading further into that link, I see that no figuring is needed....use just the board they're using for control by itself...it's a 1000mA 5-level 7135 board.
 
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