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"El Whatever"
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There is nothing worse

Than a cheap poorly made aluminum hardtail. When properly manipulated and butted an alu frame can be a wonderful thing, but these are either staight gauge tubing, or only single butted. Expect a harsh ride. Jim
 

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welding and butting

Guital2 said:
can someone explain to me the difference between welding and butting techniques???
Thanks
Butting refers to a process where the wall thickness of the tube is varied along its length, making it thicker where strength is needed (near headtube, and bottom bracket) and thinner where increased strength is not so important (away from the welded areas) this can be done once (single butted) twice (double butted) or three times ( tripple butted) along the length of usually the top tube and downtube. Seatubes are rarely butted, and seatstays and chainstays are butted on highend bikes. This butting is generally done on the internal diameter of the tube so it can not be seen, although I have seen a Giant that was butted on the external diameter. It has nothing to do with the welding process. This is done for two main reasons. To modify the ride charecteristics of the frame and to reduce weight. Hope this explains. Jim
 

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Bad Hand In Life
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Leader...

These are excellent frames. 7005 T6 tubing, light, but whatever. I actually used mine for uban assualt and DJ for a day, mined you I had wheels and tires off my fr bike. Has oversized headtube, so you'd most likely need a reducer headset if you plan on running a regular 1 1/8 fork. For a long wheel base, it manuals oddly easy. Not harsh, but I've got a steel seat post and Sette IXA Gel Ti saddle, so it helps a bit. Word of warning: I'm 5' 11'' and have the 19'', 17'' would be very manueverable in twisty sections, but 19'' ain't bad. Oh, crazy low pricing.
 

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There's no reason this can't be a good frame that builds to a decent bike. I got a SuperGo Access a couple of years ago and I'm very happy with it. Sure it's a "generic" frame but it's easily worth the price and then some. I'm sure these Leader frames can build up to the same sort of ride. It all depends on what you want and if the geometry fits.

That bit about the oversize headtube would be a bit of a pain though. So you need to find a 1 1/4 fork or reducers.
 

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IFELL said:
These are excellent frames. 7005 T6 tubing, light, but whatever. I actually used mine for uban assualt and DJ for a day, mined you I had wheels and tires off my fr bike. Has oversized headtube, so you'd most likely need a reducer headset if you plan on running a regular 1 1/8 fork. For a long wheel base, it manuals oddly easy. Not harsh, but I've got a steel seat post and Sette IXA Gel Ti saddle, so it helps a bit. Word of warning: I'm 5' 11'' and have the 19'', 17'' would be very manueverable in twisty sections, but 19'' ain't bad. Oh, crazy low pricing.
I'm a little confused. Is it just a zero stack headtube? You can't run 1 1/8 forks on it with a zero stack headset?
 

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"El Whatever"
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jimbo2k said:
Than a cheap poorly made aluminum hardtail. When properly manipulated and butted an alu frame can be a wonderful thing, but these are either staight gauge tubing, or only single butted. Expect a harsh ride. Jim
Dude, if you want a supple, plush ride get a Full-Suspension. BTW... Leader has one.
 

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Bad Hand In Life
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Headset...

The oversized headset thing is no problem, and yes it is a zero stack style as well. But, I did here leader came out with some one off's with regular headtubes. "Reducer" isn't a bad word, just that the inner diameter on the bearing cup is 1 1/8, bigger bearing cups are stronger in my case as well. I'm running a Black for reference, with some rare FSA ACB headset that I havn't seen anyware on the market.
 

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Aren't bad at all...

I built one of these a few weeks ago. They seems well made. For the price, they are reasonably light too. The only issue with these is the already mentioned headtube. All you need is a Zero Stack headset. Cane Creek and FSA make one, probably some others out there. The headset presses into the headtube just like a conventional aheadset and uses a 1-1/8" fork. If you do go that route, just be careful pressing in the headset cups. I used a Park headset press and found that using the conical reducers that are used for different size headsets make the cups get all warped. Just take the adapters out of the tool and press it right in.

Guital2 said:
There are a ton of these on E-bay buy it now for $139...Look decent says they are 7005 series aluminum...Is there something wrong with this picture that I am not seeing?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=98083&item=7144178583
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
HAHA a lead frame... That would be sweet....would weight about 80lbs and would turn into a U shape after the first tiny drop....very ductile though for all those frame geometry adjustments on the fly.
 

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"El Whatever"
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Guital2 said:
HAHA a lead frame... That would be sweet....would weight about 80lbs and would turn into a U shape after the first tiny drop....very ductile though for all those frame geometry adjustments on the fly.
LMAO!!!!!

ahem... that was rude!
 

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Guital2 said:
HAHA a lead frame... That would be sweet....would weight about 80lbs and would turn into a U shape after the first tiny drop....very ductile though for all those frame geometry adjustments on the fly.
That was what I imagine. I was surprissed but I think that I could have some advantage (may be not pure lead, may be it would be mix with aluminium or steel, perhaps to get more absorbance,...). The technology is always in advance.
 

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I got the LEader 515 set up as a mean XC race frame....SID XTR etc....had my doubts too but so far its been riding really well....lots of control...I intentionally got a 16 incher which is a size smaller than I need but I basically use it for balls on climbs.

Leader is a small company in SD and theyve been pretty helpful when calling...its a total mom and pop biz.
 
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