Depends how fast you work and drink. I'm good for a beer per wheelis it a one beer process?
Agree - lacing is the easy partLacing a wheel and truing a wheel are two different animals. If this first wheel your building is a fat bike wheel I would recommend having someone else get the calculations/spoke lengths for you, these are not just a standard calc. Things that need to be taken into account: rim offset, spoke hole offset from center line of rim, and single wall rims need the lengths to be spot on. Too short and you can collapse the shoulder of the nipple too long and you are popping your tube on the excess spoke. Fat bike wheel building is not something that I would hand to a beginner. the other thing I would not do is send some one off with a set of spokes,nipples, rim, and hub and expect to visit them the next day with a properly laced, tensioned, and dished wheel.
RIght!Agree - lacing is the easy part
Also second the motion to not have a pair of fat bike wheels be your first. I built a pair of more standard 26" wheels for another bike first, then the wheels for my fattie second (including offset rear on Rohloff).
It is possible to get past the expense of wheelbuilding kit (stand, dishing tool, tensionometer etc) - have a look here too (google wheelpro or Roger Mussen). I basically followed his line without too many problems.
Beers help (in moderation, of course) I'm happy keeping lacing and truing/destressing separate, but once I've gone beyond lacing, I try to finish the wheel in one hit.
It is possible to manage an offset wheel without a spacer - see here (bicycle nomad>bicycles>fat bike build).
I'm sure this and the wheel building forum would happily check your spoke calculations if you post them up - I'd suggest you use Freespoke (google Freespoke if you've not already found it).
Have fun - it's great to ride your own wheels
(as soon as I get another post I'll add the proper links....)
Man My LBS only charges $30 to build a wheel from scratch.I laced mine, got them till there was a little tension starting and then paid the local shop $30-40ish to finish/true the pair. The problem is the offset wheel, it's really tough to get it right without a wheel stand and the spacer. Even though it would have been my third set of wheels built, I still wasn't going to chance it due to the odd nature of fatbike wheels.
Great job, you are lucky to have a budy who could help you. I stopped into a lbs the other day and they told me they wouldn't touch a wheel (for tensioning/trueing) if they didn't build it from the start. He said they only charge 40 to build it up though. I'm toying with the idea of doing it anyway.I built my first 2 wheels yesterday, they were both fat bike wheels, wasn't terribly hard, of course my buddy from the LBS guided me for the first one and I was able to do the second one myself. I'm proud of myself! :thumbsup:
The nipple driver looks pretty close to the real thing, I ended up using just a screw driver. That tool would have been easier, the shop had one but I was already pushing my luck!Good job tracerprix. I built my first fat front this weekend using Roger Musson's book. No beer though, wanted to be as clear headed as possible. I just posted pictures of my crude nipple driver in the 47mm rim stability post. It helped tremendously. Getting even tension before tightening things down helped keep everything straight. I tried to eyeball it, but no dice. The tool made all the difference.
It helps that I spent lots of money there, plus they begged me to work for them part time, which I have, so they kind of owe me, HA HA! It took away from my riding time!:madman:Great job, you are lucky to have a budy who could help you. I stopped into a lbs the other day and they told me they wouldn't touch a wheel (for tensioning/trueing) if they didn't build it from the start. He said they only charge 40 to build it up though. I'm toying with the idea of doing it anyway.