Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My V3 Spitfire KS2 linkage is very creaky. The bearings have about 1000 miles on them and about 3 of the 6001 LLU max enduro bearings are grinding badly and very stiff. Would you recommend purchasing direct replacements for these bearings (kits available at banshee or RWC) or upgrading to a "better" bearings? Also, what bearing press/puller/extractor (with appropriate removal pilot diameters) would you recommend?

Right now I'm looking at:

BANSHEE SPITFIRE V3 BEARING KIT

PIVOT BEARING CUP FOR 28MM OD BEARING
SBT-28-OD
12MM ID PIVOT BEARING EXTRACTION PILOT
SBT-12-ID
10MM ID PIVOT BEARING EXTRACTION PILOT
SBT-10-ID
PIVOT BEARING CUP FOR 22MM OD BEARING
SBT-22-OD
SUSPENSION BEARING GUIDE 6001
SBG-6001
SUSPENSION BEARING GUIDE 6900
SBG-6900
RWC SLIM HANDLE
SBT-MH
RWC HANDLE SET FOR MODULAR BEARING TOOLS
8MM-HANDLE-SET-RWC




Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update: I repacked the bearings with a ton of grease and no creaks after ~2hr of riding. Bearings will eventually need to be replaced because the repacking didn't eliminate their roughness but better than nothing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
I just got the dreaded rear suss squeaks, pulled all the bearings except the rear triangle bearings (still figuring out how to remove them), and all were pretty rough. I am a bit disappointed by this as I have only ridden the bike for about 20hrs, all in dry conditions. I'll be pulling the seals on all new bearings and repacking them full with marine grease to hopefully get them lasting longer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Update: I repacked the bearings with a ton of grease and no creaks after ~2hr of riding. Bearings will eventually need to be replaced because the repacking didn't eliminate their roughness but better than nothing
Did you end up removing all the bearings to repack? I am struggling to get the rear triangle bearings out - the surface isn't flat enough for my extractor to work, and tried a blind bearing puller with a slide hammer and they were wedged tight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Okay, I see. I was thinking that you were gonna remove, repack and reinstall.
That was the original plan, but figured it would be best to start from scratch and get it set up the way I like it (fully packed with grease) from the start. Just had to modify my bearing puller, and a little heat on the swingarm and they popped right out. Will be a piece of cake for the next service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Posting as might be of help to some as I couldn't find a bearing service guide on the banshee site or elsewhere.

I just did a bearing swap on the whole frame on my Prime V3 after about a year of riding twice a week in normal UK conditions.

It was reasonably easy but it did take 2.5 hours, but I really wasn't rushing and there was some puzzling.

I used the Rapid Racer Products bearing Press, adaptor Kit 5 and 8.

Notes:
1) All the bearings came out easy enough. Some needed the extractor cup reversing to get the bearing moving with the 2 parts engaged before pushing it out in the correct manner.

2) For the Trunnion bearings use the Male Extraction Adaptor from Kit 5 and the Female Extraction Cup from Kit 8.

3) Due to the lack of "flat" around the bearing locations, you will need to use the extraction cups reversed plus the female insertion adaptor to support the insertion.

4) For the bearings in the frame and rear triangle at either end of the lower linkage, press the bearings in together with the linkage in place. Swap the adaptors round a couple of times to make sure the bearings go in evenly. Having 2 Male adaptors from Kit 8 would be useful here but that's another £20 as you have to buy the whole kit (I might get a part machined up for next time.

5) Bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours prior helps.

6) The Trunnion bearings that come out are NOT F6900 LLU they are F6900 2RS. That being said they weren't that much notchier than the other bearings which are LLU.
 

·
Magically Delicious
Joined
·
14,198 Posts
6) The Trunnion bearings that come out are NOT F6900 LLU they are F6900 2RS. That being said they weren't that much notchier than the other bearings which are LLU.
LLU & 2RS are only seal designations and should have no bearing on their 'notchier' feel over other LLU seals. Perhaps on the rotational feel. LLU is a double lip, full contact seal and 2RS is just 2 rubber seals on each bearing side. Kinda nebulous.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
LLU & 2RS are only seal designations and should have no bearing on their 'notchier' feel over other LLU seals. Perhaps on the rotational feel. LLU is a double lip, full contact seal and 2RS is just 2 rubber seals on each bearing side. Kinda nebulous.
Sorry - maybe I wasn't clear, the 2RS bearing was notchier after a year of use compared to the LLU bearings after the same amount of use. I put this down to the bearing not being quite as well sealed. They are a bit more exposed too compared to the 6900-LLU bearings at the other end of the rocker link.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Posting as might be of help to some as I couldn't find a bearing service guide on the banshee site or elsewhere.

I just did a bearing swap on the whole frame on my Prime V3 after about a year of riding twice a week in normal UK conditions.

It was reasonably easy but it did take 2.5 hours, but I really wasn't rushing and there was some puzzling.

I used the Rapid Racer Products bearing Press, adaptor Kit 5 and 8.

Notes:
1) All the bearings came out easy enough. Some needed the extractor cup reversing to get the bearing moving with the 2 parts engaged before pushing it out in the correct manner.

2) For the Trunnion bearings use the Male Extraction Adaptor from Kit 5 and the Female Extraction Cup from Kit 8.

3) Due to the lack of "flat" around the bearing locations, you will need to use the extraction cups reversed plus the female insertion adaptor to support the insertion.

4) For the bearings in the frame and rear triangle at either end of the lower linkage, press the bearings in together with the linkage in place. Swap the adaptors round a couple of times to make sure the bearings go in evenly. Having 2 Male adaptors from Kit 8 would be useful here but that's another £20 as you have to buy the whole kit (I might get a part machined up for next time.

5) Bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours prior helps.

6) The Trunnion bearings that come out are NOT F6900 LLU they are F6900 2RS. That being said they weren't that much notchier than the other bearings which are LLU.
Did you have any issues with bearings not spinning after install? I thought I installed my first bearing perfectly aligned and looks to be flush but wont spin! Is this a tolerance issue? Nevermind, removed and reinstalled and all is good
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top