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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After a year of riding the 2013 kona taro I feel some upgrades are required.....


Firstly I mainly want to achieve an extra gear up and down. For steep hills and decent...


Have been looking at changing the chainring to a raceface narrow/wide 104 BCD 36 or 38 but thinking 38 may be a little too much for the hills??


Also thinking about putting a hope 40 TREX on a new 10 speed cassette/freewheel...


Maybe change the 12-36 to say 9-40 with TREX on?? With this in mind a 36 chain ring should be what I'm looking for...


New rear derailleur xt shadow ...


Hope tech 3 E4 brakes with Hope Floating (Saw) Rotor 180 and 160...


Any input or comments welcome


Many thanks liam
 

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you will no doubt get a bunch of coaching re this post, but I will start it out. I suggest you not spend any money on this bike other than normal maintenance...save up for a new bike that has all, or most of, the components that you want.

am I correct that your current bike is a 11-34t nine speed and a 32t...really a pretty good all-around spec. I again would suggest, if the Kona aint getting it done, sell it and get a bike that more closely matches your needs...assuming you​ really know what you need :cool: next...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Any suggestions! Ive got money to waste on a new bike but don't really feel a new bike is what I need..... Could drown in bikes with specs of this and that but until you ride the beast you don't know it's for you ; )

All components I'm getting rid off are to be bought off me so the outgoing on new parts isn't excessive and don't want to spend £3k on a tip top bike when a few thought out adjustments will produce the bike I want....
 

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Any suggestions! Ive got money to waste on a new bike but don't really feel a new bike is what I need..... Could drown in bikes with specs of this and that but until you ride the beast you don't know it's for you ; )

All components I'm getting rid off are to be bought off me so the outgoing on new parts isn't excessive and don't want to spend £3k on a tip top bike when a few thought out adjustments will produce the bike I want....
 

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Any suggestions! Ive got money to waste on a new bike but don't really feel a new bike is what I need..... Could drown in bikes with specs of this and that but until you ride the beast you don't know it's for you ; )

All components I'm getting rid off are to be bought off me so the outgoing on new parts isn't excessive and don't want to spend £3k on a tip top bike when a few thought out adjustments will produce the bike I want....
I am not sure why I got this back...you should do fine since youv'e "got money to waste"...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah the kona has 12-36 9 speed and a 32 chain ring... The frame and shocks are fine.. Just wanted a little more up and down hill with better brakes.. Most bikes stock parts are far from perfect and need rider desired upgrades... Could sell the bike for half price but that's not going to achieve much if I get a new bike that once ridden doesn't suit me.. And the hills I go up and down really need to be ridden to assess the bike..

Thanks for your suggestions tho ; )

Cheers
 

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patronise...

:skep: don't flatter yourself...

guess you will just have to wait it out...I gave you my opinion :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
:skep: don't flatter yourself...

guess you will just have to wait it out...I gave you my opinion :cool:
Find it hard to flatter myself with what constitutes to a troll.....

so if anyone has anything of any substance to say please feel free...

Its ta like someone asking to improve their mini and being told you should save up for a Ferrari!

Lookin in more for input on people who have changed from a 32 chain ring to a 34 or 36 and if it achieved their desired objectives and if anyone has changed the freewheel from a 36 to a 40 last cog???

Yeah brakes are a little expensive for the frame but i never asked to change the frame only the gears and brakes... I've done over 1500 miles on it this year and if I was unhappy with the frame then I would have bought another!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If this is all you have to input then please move on to the next troll thread thanks

***************
you will no doubt get a bunch of coaching re this post, but I will start out. I suggest you to not spend any money on this bike other than normal maintenance...save up for a new bike that has all, or most of, the components that you want. The upgrading sickness is totally understandable and predictable, but take a deep breath, and spend a bit of time researching... :nono:
***************
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Firstly I mainly want to achieve an extra gear up and down. For steep hills and decent...

As said earlier, I'm not looking for badges and status with the upgrades it to achieve a purpose!

So opinions with an answer to the right question would help..

Many thanks
 

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You can try a ten speed 11-36 XT, drop the 17 and add a 40 or 42 on the rear. Deore or SLX Shadow Plus derailleur and SLX shifter. W-N 36 or less on the front. SLX or Deore brakes will solve your stopping. Ribble as a source for the Shimano.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You can try a ten speed 11-36 XT, drop the 17 and add a 40 or 42 on the rear. Deore or SLX Shadow Plus derailleur and SLX shifter. W-N 36 or less on the front. SLX or Deore brakes will solve your stopping. Ribble as a source for the Shimano.
Excellent the right answer to the right question!! Sounds like an experienced and intelligent answer many thanks....

I was was only thinking the raceface ring chain as I have removed the chain guard and it throws the chain once a ride.... So the narrow/wide chainring helps prevent this but I believe a better derailleur would also help....

The original brakes were ok but after a lot of use tend to have some fade on long and very steep decents..


many any thanks I will have a look at the parts you suggested!

Cheers again
 

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Your ideas for upgrading are pretty good. To achieve the 9-XX gearing you are going to have to get either a Canfield Microdrive hub or wheelset. The wheelset is probably the best bang for the buck. Someone posted pics of their bike running a 9-42 spread with the hub. Also, with the 9t gear a 32t chainring is going to be like a 36 or 37t up front.

I suggest you not spend any money on this bike other than normal maintenance...save up for a new bike that has all, or most of, the components that you want.
Ignore this post. The Taro is about 1 of 3 aluminum AM 29 hardtails. The Yelli and Paradox being the other 2. If you are happy with the Sektor put your money in wheels first, even before a fork, then NW chainring/clutch RD, brakes and maybe a dropper if you want. If the wheelset eats most of your budget go for SLX/XT brakes they are about $100 an end and are two top performers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Your ideas for upgrading are pretty good. To achieve the 9-XX gearing you are going to have to get either a Canfield Microdrive hub or wheelset. The wheelset is probably the best bang for the buck. Someone posted pics of their bike running a 9-42 spread with the hub. Also, with the 9t gear a 32t chainring is going to be like a 36 or 37t up front.



Ignore this post. The Taro is about 1 of 3 aluminum AM 29 hardtails. The Yelli and Paradox being the other 2. If you are happy with the Sektor put your money in wheels first, even before a fork, then NW chainring/clutch RD, brakes and maybe a dropper if you want. If the wheelset eats most of your budget go for SLX/XT brakes they are about $100 an end and are two top performers.
thanks, I was thinking about wheels too, more for weight and rigidity than anything else....

i didnt listen to a word of the troll earlier as he believed he made valid points but in reality was a rambling mad man without anything real to say!! He believed I wanted badges and not to achieve the bike I wanted and a new bike was the wholy grail!!

I have a be a decent fund available to do upgrades and realise that the upgrades will amount to 50% of bikes value but I think they will make the bike 200% better and exactly what I desire... Not going to spend £3k on a new bike that once ridden I'm unhappy with.. All well and good riding it around the shop car park but never going to be representative of real mountain riding!!!
 

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A Shimano Shadow Plus 10 sp rear derailleur uses a clutch to maintain tension on the chain forwards and backwards. This helps keep it from jumping off without a guide or front derailleur. SLX would be good.
 

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How you like the bike up hills? Have looked at it and the frame geo seems really interesting. Definately worth the upgrades you're contemplating imo.

I've no hands-on experience with it, but from what I've heard/read eb1888 is spot on. Heard a bit mixed comments on the 42 regarding shifting, a 40 might be better, but it's still rather new stuff. But wheels, SLX brakes, SLX shadow rear, 11-36 cassette, N/W chainring and your ready to go. I'd probably stay with a 36 ring up front, getting bigger would be tough going up hills.
 

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You could go with a RF Evolve crankset, which comes with a 32t NW(if specified) which is lighter than the stock FSA crankset on my 2014 Taro. This will also allow you to ditch the chainguide making your bike lighter for the climbs, and then add larger gear to the rear cassette for descents. From what I hear, a clutch rear derailleur is not a necessity with this set up, but perhaps if you have the extra cash, you may want to look into that as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
How you like the bike up hills? Have looked at it and the frame geo seems really interesting. Definately worth the upgrades you're contemplating imo.

I've no hands-on experience with it, but from what I've heard/read eb1888 is spot on. Heard a bit mixed comments on the 42 regarding shifting, a 40 might be better, but it's still rather new stuff. But wheels, SLX brakes, SLX shadow rear, 11-36 cassette, N/W chainring and your ready to go. I'd probably stay with a 36 ring up front, getting bigger would be tough going up hills.
Just been thinking, I really havnt been up to date on ins and outs of current tech etc, but would a bigger crank arm assist with uphills, leverage!! Could put a 34 n-w upfront and put a 10 speed cassette with 11-40?? Just working out if this would be worth it or just produce same ratios??


Think brakes are a first buy with bigger rotas for more stopping power.... Rd clutch maybe SRAM xx01 I think it is with titanium arm (new), toying with carbon wheels but what do you lot think??
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
How you like the bike up hills? Have looked at it and the frame geo seems really interesting. Definately worth the upgrades you're contemplating imo.

I've no hands-on experience with it, but from what I've heard/read eb1888 is spot on. Heard a bit mixed comments on the 42 regarding shifting, a 40 might be better, but it's still rather new stuff. But wheels, SLX brakes, SLX shadow rear, 11-36 cassette, N/W chainring and your ready to go. I'd probably stay with a 36 ring up front, getting bigger would be tough going up hills.
The bike is ok uphills, it's just when on really long 1.5 mile to 3 mile really steep hills I could do with either longer crank arms or another gear on back....

So maybe a 34 upfront with a 10 speed cassette with either 40 or 42 on would help but really need to do the circuit to know. Will do all the maths and see if it helps in theory and have to pay your money take your chance as they say..


Thanks for input peeps

Cheers liam
 
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