[XSL_WiLL]

Knocked down the travel on this Sherman to 100mm. Axle to crown height is lower. Now you can safely huck in the lower position. I managed to cram a 130mm spring in there, so it's nice and stiff, perfect for urban and DJ.

Last week I took a Firefly down to 65mm, used the 80mm spring from a Sherman Jumper. I hadn't thought to take a picture of that.

If anybody is interested in taking the travel down, let me know. I can walk you through, or do it for a nominal fee.

 

[mattsavage]

Did you put a shorter compression rod in there?

 

[XSL_WiLL]

Did you put a shorter compression rod in there?

Nope. Pulled the travel adjuster out and used spacers to space it down to the desired travel.

 

[mattsavage]

So you just preloaded the spring w/o using the RTII system. Did you use the stock spring when doing so, or did you go softer to compensate for the preload?

If you put an 80 mm spring into the Firefly, how do you keep it from over extending when it tops out?

 

[XSL_WiLL]

So you just preloaded the spring w/o using the RTII system. Did you use the stock spring when doing so, or did you go softer to compensate for the preload?

If you put an 80 mm spring into the Firefly, how do you keep it from over extending when it tops out?

Dropped spacers into the middle of the travel adjust unit. Basically the spacers replaced the little metal wings that held the spring. I removed the rest of the travel adjuster. This prevents top-out.

Since Shermans are notorious for being undersprung, I ended up using the stock springs. I could've just choppped down the springs a bit if neccesary.

I'm at school right now. I'll put up details later.

 

[rip.]

Any more details? What did you use for spacers?

Clem

 

[XSL_WiLL]

Any more details? What did you use for spacers?

Clem

Totally forgot about this thread. Here's what I did.

Pulled off the Rapid Travel adjuster knob, the foot nut on the bottom of the left side lower, and the 20mm top cap on the left leg.

Removed the spring assembly. There's a little plastic wedge that turns to extend the metal "wings" at the bottom of the spring, I did not put this back in when I reassembled the fork.

Since I was doing a rebuild anyways. I removed both the adjusters on the right leg. Use a 8mm allen wrench and turn clockwise to unthread the dampener from the lowers. Removed the 20mm top cap and dampening assembly. This is the part where all the oil pours out or hits you in the face.

Pull the lowers off.

To access the travel assembly unit in the left leg, you will need to unscrew the assembly from the stanchions.

After you pull the assembly off, make sure the metal "wings" aren't extended. Then space out the assembly. I used rubber washers from garden hoses. Just stretch them out over the top of the assembly. Use as many as you would like to reduce the travel by. 30mm of spacers = 30mm less travel and 30mm lower axle to crown height.

Thread this assembly back into the left side stanchion.

Slide the stanchions back into the lowers, but not all the way. Before you thread the uppers and lowers back together, fill the semi-bath oil. 16ccs of oil in each lower leg. This oil is not for the dampener. So you can use any type of light oil. I also packed a lot of Manitou Prep-M grease under the new seals.

Thread the 11mm footnut back into the left leg.

Use something to push the rebound assembly to the bottom of the right leg. Turn your 8mm allen wrench counter-clockwise to thread it back in. Make sure it's nice and snug. Thread the rebound knob back on.

Grease the shi!t out of the spring. Drop the spring back into the left leg and thread the 20mm top cap on. On the 65mm fork, I used a 80mm spring. On the 100mm for, I used a 130mm spring. It was a pain in the ass to get it all the way down. But I did it. Shermans are notoriously undersprung anyways. If you really need to, you can always just lop off a bit of the spring. Remember to measure and think things through before you cut. Make the spring slightly longer than it has to be. The spring is slightly longer than it has to be when it comes with the fork too.

Add oil to the dampener side. I used a more viscuous oil to slow down the rebound in order to compensate for the added preload.

I was about 2.3 inches from the crown. Compress the fork regularly, oil will suck down into the rebound assembly. Oil heights are subjective. As long as it feels good, you're alright. Pop the 20mm top cap back on. After a few rides, check the oil height again.

I think that's it.

 

[XSL_WiLL]

Basically the washers do what the little metal "wings" are supposed to do. They keep the fork from extending. Except the washers don't break.

 

[rip.]

Thanks for the info!. Going to try this on my firefly over the winter

Clem

 

[XSL_WiLL]

Thanks for the info!. Going to try this on my firefly over the winter

Clem

No problem, let me know if you need any help.

 

[ebxtreme]

Will,

Is that the 150mm version you have there? Is it a Flick or Firefly? Jenson's blowing out the 150 Flick for ~$300 and I'm considering one.

How do they hold up to the abuse? The claimed weigh is 5.4 lbs......any idea on the real weight?

Thanks,
EB

 

[mattsavage]

Will,

Is that the 150mm version you have there? Is it a Flick or Firefly? Jenson's blowing out the 150 Flick for ~$300 and I'm considering one.

How do they hold up to the abuse? The claimed weigh is 5.4 lbs......any idea on the real weight?

Thanks,
EB

I have the Flick 150 and it is holding up superbly! I have nothing but praise for this line of forks. The qr version is plenty stiff for aggressive trail riding and light dh/fr. Then I bought a set of 20mm Nixon/Stance lowers off Ebay and that made a perceptable difference in steering precision and tracking. I felt more confident when racing DH. I raced the fork in sport class dh and was smoking guys with 888's and Super T's. I probably could have podiumed with this fork, but I don't have the heart of a racer. I was just doing it for fun.

The claimed weights are accurate with an uncut steerer. The only thing to consider is that it's undersprung. If you're 180-200 in gear, get the heavy spring. 200+ get the x-firm.

 

[XSL_WiLL]

Will,

Is that the 150mm version you have there? Is it a Flick or Firefly? Jenson's blowing out the 150 Flick for ~$300 and I'm considering one.

How do they hold up to the abuse? The claimed weigh is 5.4 lbs......any idea on the real weight?

Thanks,
EB

That is the 150 Flick pictured. I also did a 130 Firefly. Both have been holding up great.

I used to have a Firefly myself. I loved that fork. Very stiff, even with a QR. IMO stiffer than any Marzocchi I've ever owned.

 

[XSL_WiLL]

Will,

Is that the 150mm version you have there? Is it a Flick or Firefly? Jenson's blowing out the 150 Flick for ~$300 and I'm considering one.

How do they hold up to the abuse? The claimed weigh is 5.4 lbs......any idea on the real weight?

Thanks,
EB

Some people say the actual weight is slightly more than the advertised weight, but my Firefly with a cut steerer weighed 4.2 pounds exact. I didn't bother to weigh the other 2 forks I had.

Yeah, Shermans due tend to be undersprung, so if you aren't reducing the travel... I strongly suggest that you purchase an x-firm ride kit if you plan on doing any sort of abusive riding on it.

 

[ebxtreme]

I have the Flick 150 and it is holding up superbly! I have nothing but praise for this line of forks. The qr version is plenty stiff for aggressive trail riding and light dh/fr. Then I bought a set of 20mm Nixon/Stance lowers off Ebay and that made a perceptable difference in steering precision and tracking. I felt more confident when racing DH. I raced the fork in sport class dh and was smoking guys with 888's and Super T's. I probably could have podiumed with this fork, but I don't have the heart of a racer. I was just doing it for fun.

The claimed weights are accurate with an uncut steerer. The only thing to consider is that it's undersprung. If you're 180-200 in gear, get the heavy spring. 200+ get the x-firm.

Matt / Will,

Thanks for the feedback. I might have the opportunity to get a screaming deal on a Fox 36 so I've been giving that some thought, but even with a deal, it's MUCH more expensive than this fork (on sale). I just might jump on it (pun intended) after the holidays if they stick around.

BTW, I'm ~165 with gear on so that should be fine. I'm trying to build down my Stinky and will be putting my 66 RC or a 888 on a new dedicated DH bike.

Cheers,
EBX

 

[namaSSte]

Will, not stealing your thunder here but I can add a few things I found useful....


I took my firefly down to 80mm for park and street and found that the rubber hose washer didn't stand up to my abuse. Instead I used a metal bmx bb spacer. They are easy to find at a decent bmx shop (they probably have em for free if your a good custy). Anyway, just pull the black plastic footing off the bottom of the rod and slide it on, replace footing and bingo.

I also like to run a very stiff fork and found it quite undersprung when I swapped to an 80mm jumper spring. Solution? For $18 at toolanddie.com, I picked up a 12" heavy duty die spring and cut it down to length. It's crazy stiff now and can stand up to anything I put it through.

Just a few more options for those who like to try out different feels. Otherwise, your instructions are right on. Great job. Like Will said too, pm me if you need further help although I won't do it for you, those jobs get referred directly to Will.

 

[XSL_WiLL]

Will, not stealing your thunder here but I can add a few things I found useful....

I took my firefly down to 80mm for park and street and found that the rubber hose washer didn't stand up to my abuse. Instead I used a metal bmx bb spacer. They are easy to find at a decent bmx shop (they probably have em for free if your a good custy). Anyway, just pull the black plastic footing off the bottom of the rod and slide it on, replace footing and bingo.

I also like to run a very stiff fork and found it quite undersprung when I swapped to an 80mm jumper spring. Solution? For $18 at toolanddie.com, I picked up a 12" heavy duty die spring and cut it down to length. It's crazy stiff now and can stand up to anything I put it through.

Just a few more options for those who like to try out different feels. Otherwise, your instructions are right on. Great job. Like Will said too, pm me if you need further help although I won't do it for you, those jobs get referred directly to Will.

How do the hose washers not hold up? What happens to them?

Don't the BMX BB spacers knock around?

Cramming a 130mm spring down to 100mm definitely made it stiff enough.