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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
006_007 said:
Looks really similar to the E13 zerostack
Pretty similar at first glance....
The big difference being that these k9 cups change your head angle +/- 2 degrees, by putting the headset at an angle to your head tube.

I have some concerns about this- seems like your head tube has to be perfectly faced, the headset upper & lower cups have to be perfectly aligned, and the head tube length has to be exactly to spec, otherwise you'd be wearing out bearings and putting extra stress on the steerer tube.

The potential benefits are huge though- so I was hoping somebody had some personal experience with them.

I emailed the MFG last week but haven't heard back yet. I'll post back here if/when I do.

 

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ROBOTIC RESERVE
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Question: I am currently using a Cane Creek XXC Flush Headset on my XL Turner Highline. It’s the only headset out there that has a low enough total stack height to accommodate an 888 or Fox 40 with a massive 6” head tube. (10.1mm) the thing that has me worried is the amount of cup insertion depth is very thin. 5/8 on the lower cup and a little less on the top, do you think I will run into issues if I keep using it? Or should I make the switch to the e13 etc…?

Is there a recommended cup depth for a DH application and 1.5 head tube?
 

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maker of trail
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Captain Snakebite said:
Question: I am currently using a Cane Creek XXC Flush Headset on my XL Turner Highline. It's the only headset out there that has a low enough total stack height to accommodate an 888 or Fox 40 with a massive 6" head tube. (10.1mm) the thing that has me worried is the amount of cup insertion depth is very thin. 5/8 on the lower cup and a little less on the top, do you think I will run into issues if I keep using it? Or should I make the switch to the e13 etc…?

Is there a recommended cup depth for a DH application and 1.5 head tube?
Not sure on cup depth, but I have a E13 1.5 to IS reducer cup in my bike, that has a decent insert depth (can't remember the exact amount) and results in a flush head set. If that helps..
 

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Captain Snakebite said:
Question: I am currently using a Cane Creek XXC Flush Headset on my XL Turner Highline. It's the only headset out there that has a low enough total stack height to accommodate an 888 or Fox 40 with a massive 6" head tube. (10.1mm) the thing that has me worried is the amount of cup insertion depth is very thin. 5/8 on the lower cup and a little less on the top, do you think I will run into issues if I keep using it? Or should I make the switch to the e13 etc…?

Is there a recommended cup depth for a DH application and 1.5 head tube?
What does this have to do with the OP's post/thread title?
 

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Calm like a bomb
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Hey FM, I've got a set on the way for my wife's Socom. Obtanium Performance Products is the US supplier for them. Give Jim a holler and I'm sure he can sort you out.

I can't wait to give these things a try. I'm planning to pull the slacker drop-outs off and install these cups to wind up with a slacker HTA but a steeper STA. This should make the Socom pedal a lot better for those FR days yet still be more stable on the DH.

We shall see....

Oh and on alignment, I'm pretty sure there's a mark on the cup and then you just measure and mark your head tube so that they line up perfectly. The Corsair Maelstrom that I ride has 1 deg offset cups, it has marks on the frame and cups for easy install.
 

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Err said:
Oh and on alignment, I'm pretty sure there's a mark on the cup and then you just measure and mark your head tube so that they line up perfectly. The Corsair Maelstrom that I ride has 1 deg offset cups, it has marks on the frame and cups for easy install.
Figured that might the case. Sounds kinda ghetto and an easy way to mess up your headtube/headset/bearings
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Gemini2k05 said:
I don't understand how you reliably align the top and bottom cups for setups like these? Do you just install the bottom one, then put the steerer tube through it and hope its all dandy?
Exactly... I see the cups have a mark on the edge, which is needs to go straight ahead, or straight back. So those have to be aligned, and the head tube length has to be exact, otherwise you're putting funky loads on the steerer tube.

Maybe there's some special trick explained in the instructions ;)
 
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i am running the Works Components offset cups which are basically the same thing without the included headset. I opted for a Cane Creek 110 integrated headset to go with it, which took a little machining to get the clearance from the bearing cap, but nothing to major.

As for creaking, I haven't had any, and it seems rock solid.
 

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Im going to get these for my glory fr 5.1in headtube 66.5 deg. but i wasnt sure to get the 1 degree or 2 degree cups (either works or k9) I currently have a boxxer raised way up to rake it out a little hoping to lower that to 205mm so i was thinking 2 degree cups. Any reasons this is a bad idea and i should go with 1 degree

I was also hoping to get a lower bb height out of it too. How much should i expect it to drop by lowering my fork and 1 or 2 degree cups
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
huntandride said:
How much should i expect it to drop by lowering my fork and 1 or 2 degree cups
Looks like 1cm compared to most external headsets. That's based on an MBR magazine review where they compared a Banshee Rune and a Morewood, both with external and then K9 headset cups. Nice of them to publish before & after BB heights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Follow up

Heard back from K9, here's what they had to say:

Changing the head angle by 2 degrees drops the bb by around 4 mm and increases the wheel base by around 24 mm on a DH bike with boxer forks. I imagine that on your Rune it would be around 2.5 mm in the bb and around 17 mm on the wheel base not including the reduced stack height. Reducing the stack height would further drop the bb by another 2 mm and shorten the wheel base by around 3 mm.

So running the ARC does drop the BB and the increase the wheelbase on your bike, but it really depends mainly on the size of the bike and the fork length.
Also, found this article on pinkbike that has some pictures & comments on installation.
Looks like a quality product.
 

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FM said:
Heard back from K9, here's what they had to say:

I imagine that on your Rune it would be around 2.5 mm in the bb and around 17 mm on the wheel base not including the reduced stack height. Reducing the stack height would further drop the bb by another 2 mm and shorten the wheel base by around 3 mm.
Funny, I was just discussing this combo with a buddy on a ride yesterday. IMO, if I were to get a Rune it would be set up with the K9 cups.
 
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