[homestar]

I just put an order in on a 19" monocog. I'm 5' 11" with a 33" (34" in my cycling shoes) inseam. How's the standover on the monocog? From the looks of the specs, a 17" would be flat out too small for me, but I thought I'd ask around before it's too late to change my mind.

I feel like a broken record on the whole size issue (was enquiring about inbred's last week), but after being burned on the purchase of a fisher last year - which was just flat out too long a bike for me - I'm a little wary of this process. Problem is, not a single store in the state of VA has a single SS in stock. And I want to get RIDING.

Thanks.
matt

 

[single1x1]

19" should be good

I just put an order in on a 19" monocog. I'm 5' 11" with a 33" (34" in my cycling shoes) inseam. How's the standover on the monocog? From the looks of the specs, a 17" would be flat out too small for me, but I thought I'd ask around before it's too late to change my mind.

I feel like a broken record on the whole size issue (was enquiring about inbred's last week), but after being burned on the purchase of a fisher last year - which was just flat out too long a bike for me - I'm a little wary of this process. Problem is, not a single store in the state of VA has a single SS in stock. And I want to get RIDING.

Thanks.
matt

I have a older monocog, red, from when they only had one size, and I am 6ft w/a 34" inseam and it fits me pretty well, I like the long top tube and put a shorter stem on it 80mm great for tecnical single track. I changed mine up a bit and it is now my heavy duty trail ride. Rynolite wheels 2.3 rear 2.5 front nbx dh tires, and profile cranks w/ a 30tooth bmx integrated ring/guard. nothing can hurt this ride, log drops of 1-3 feet, sketchey down hills, log piles, just bring it on, stiff and solid.
YOu might want to just buy the frame set and put it together how you like, would still be cheap. The complete aluminum monocog has better componants and is disc ready, but it's aluminum and so is the fork, but a kona fork w/disc tabs can be had for cheap, and I'm not sure how much stiffer the aluminum frame could be than the steel, which is quite stiff to begin with. The rear of the monocog can fit a 2.3 nbx, but anything bigger might be a little bit too big. mine is heavey 27-28 pounds, but it's not a xc racer by any streach, stock the compleate steel monocog is about [email protected]/2-25 pounds in the 19" size.

 

[homestar]

Thanks, single. Even though I do plan on swapping out some parts pretty quick, I'm sticking with ordering the stock bike. Eventually I'll be at a skill level where I can build up something on my own.

Do you (or anyone else) have a measurement for standover on the 17 and 19 inchers? It's amazing to me that they're listed NOWHERE on the web.

 

[mtnbikej]

Thanks, single. Even though I do plan on swapping out some parts pretty quick, I'm sticking with ordering the stock bike. Eventually I'll be at a skill level where I can build up something on my own.

Do you (or anyone else) have a measurement for standover on the 17 and 19 inchers? It's amazing to me that they're listed NOWHERE on the web.

At your size....you ordered the right size at 19". The medium would have been too small. My wife is 5'4" and has a 15". I can ride it.....only when I take it to the BMX track.

mtnbikej

 

[single1x1]

stand over

I just put an order in on a 19" monocog. I'm 5' 11" with a 33" (34" in my cycling shoes) inseam. How's the standover on the monocog? From the looks of the specs, a 17" would be flat out too small for me, but I thought I'd ask around before it's too late to change my mind.

I feel like a broken record on the whole size issue (was enquiring about inbred's last week), but after being burned on the purchase of a fisher last year - which was just flat out too long a bike for me - I'm a little wary of this process. Problem is, not a single store in the state of VA has a single SS in stock. And I want to get RIDING.

Thanks.
matt

I just measered mine, stand over was about 30.5 inches at 12inches down the 23" top tube and about 29 inches from the ground to the top of the top tube where it intersects with the seat tube, also remember this is with big 2.5 " nbx tire in front and a 2.3" nbx in back, it would probably be a little bit lower w/regular 2.1" xc tires.hope this helps

 

[weather]

you got more than enough standover. i have 32' inseam, and my 19 inch monocog leaves enough room for my manhood.

 

[FLYBYU]

I'm just under 6' and my inseam is 30", my Redline is a 19" and it fits me fine, but I also have a 120mm stem on it. However it should fit you good regardless, especially if you have a shorter stem on it.

 

[gofast]

Check the headset

I got about 3 good rides before the headset went. I'm not sure what they're putting on the new ones.

 

[jdub347]

I just put an order in on a 19" monocog. I'm 5' 11" with a 33" (34" in my cycling shoes) inseam. How's the standover on the monocog? From the looks of the specs, a 17" would be flat out too small for me, but I thought I'd ask around before it's too late to change my mind.

I feel like a broken record on the whole size issue (was enquiring about inbred's last week), but after being burned on the purchase of a fisher last year - which was just flat out too long a bike for me - I'm a little wary of this process. Problem is, not a single store in the state of VA has a single SS in stock. And I want to get RIDING.

Thanks.
matt

I am a hair under 6' with a 32" inseam and rode a 17" Monocog. Ran a 110mm stem on it and loved it. I do come from a BMX background and do prefer smaller frames though, so I am sure I am in the minority on frame size preferences.

 

[homestar]

Thanks!

I just measered mine, stand over was about 30.5 inches at 12inches down the 23" top tube and about 29 inches from the ground to the top of the top tube where it intersects with the seat tube, also remember this is with big 2.5 " nbx tire in front and a 2.3" nbx in back, it would probably be a little bit lower w/regular 2.1" xc tires.hope this helps

Thanks so much for measuring...I really appreciate it. I actually want to be putting on at least some 2.3's. Is 2.5 as big as you can get in front?

Also, one last question: when they were making the monocog in just one size, what was the seat tube length? If I can get the kind of standover that you cited above on my new 19", I'll be pretty psyched. It just sounds like perfect geometry for what I like to do.

 

[single1x1]

front tire size

Thanks so much for measuring...I really appreciate it. I actually want to be putting on at least some 2.3's. Is 2.5 as big as you can get in front?

Also, one last question: when they were making the monocog in just one size, what was the seat tube length? If I can get the kind of standover that you cited above on my new 19", I'll be pretty psyched. It just sounds like perfect geometry for what I like to do.

The size was 19 inch, to the top of the seat collar, about 17 to top of top tube. I think you should be able to fit a 2.7 maxxis or michellin, but you might have to run a front disc(mine is v-brake only) it might also help, and look good if you remove the canti mounts, file and re-paint that part of the fork, to make a little more room for the tire. Not sure if a 3.0 gazzi would fit it would be pretty close. If you need 3.0 clearance a on-one kniffen fork has loads of clearance, or talk to mean todd at web cyclery, he'll know and hook you up.

 

[sime]

when you're checking the headset, think about repacking your hubs. i had a big issue with the rear within 4 months of buying the bike.........wore out the bearings/ developed slop/ enough slop that the chain hopped over a tooth out back, put enough stress on the chain to break it..........so yeah, check your hubs. and in time, swap out the chainring and chain for something a little more durable.

as for fit. i am 6'0" with about a 34" inseam......and i ride a 17", fits me. does that help add to your confusion? i had the advantage of 2, frames that fit me quite well (local custom builder) and i just compared numbers to the stock redline's when i needed a new beater/commuter

 

[single1x1]

The headset isn't that bad.

when you're checking the headset, think about repacking your hubs. i had a big issue with the rear within 4 months of buying the bike.........wore out the bearings/ developed slop/ enough slop that the chain hopped over a tooth out back, put enough stress on the chain to break it..........so yeah, check your hubs. and in time, swap out the chainring and chain for something a little more durable.

as for fit. i am 6'0" with about a 34" inseam......and i ride a 17", fits me. does that help add to your confusion? i had the advantage of 2, frames that fit me quite well (local custom builder) and i just compared numbers to the stock redline's when i needed a new beater/commuter

The headset that came on mine was some cheapo Aheadset sx-1 or something, I had that head set on the redline for about a year and overhauled it once, didn't have any problems. I upgraded to a canecreek s6 which is fairly nice with sealed bearings, so the overhaul regimine is not as necessary. I still am using the original redline headset on my Surly cross check, have had it on the single speed crosscheck for about 3 years, (2 full seasons of western WA cross racing)it feels slightly notchey now but only when you slowly turn the bars with the wheel off the ground. I've overhauled the headset probably once every 6 months or so, I think I've changed the bearings once, but they might need to be changed again if I don't just go and buy a decent sealed HS for the cross check.
Most cheapo a headsets can be have a fairly long life if they are adjusted properly and overhauled regularly, at least once a year, if not used too much and as often as once every 3 months if you ride alot and in wet weather, once every 6months is probably enough for most cases.

 

[Monocog Man]

Just wondering if any of you other Monocog owners had problems with the rear wheel loosening up or devloping play in it. I have had more then two people tell me that the cones need tightened, and probably weren't when I took it to the shop the other day. I also had someone tell me it may be the freewheel. If you have had this problem, I'd appreciate it if you would share with me how you corrected it.

 

[single1x1]

wheels not the best

Just wondering if any of you other Monocog owners had problems with the rear wheel loosening up or devloping play in it. I have had more then two people tell me that the cones need tightened, and probably weren't when I took it to the shop the other day. I also had someone tell me it may be the freewheel. If you have had this problem, I'd appreciate it if you would share with me how you corrected it.

Sime just said that the rear hub should be overhauled and tightened. The alex rims, that came with mine are pretty cheap, so I bought a pair of sun bmx hubs made w/rynolites that jenson was selling two years or so ago for $100 haven't had any problems with those. The freewheel that came on mine was a cheapo dicta I used it for about a month before replacing it with a ACS claw, engagement not very good, some play in the freewheel, reputation for a very crappy freewheel, and my paranoia about running a bad cheap freewheel. I don't think Jenson is selling that wheel set anymore, but you could call up Sun, they were a sun wheelset, or if you know how to build wheels, Bmx hubs and ryno lite rims can be had for pretty cheap. I have also seen a friends monocog w/ a 135 single speed mtn hub streached to fit inside.

 

[Monocog Man]

I haven't found the wheelset to be cheap (I have the same wheelset) but could I get away with just buying new BMX hubs?