[RM27]

I just installed a brand new set of Juicy 7's. When I adjust the pad dials inwards following the arrows the brakes become less responsive and require the levers to come all the way to the bar to stop. Is this normal or is the opposite of what should happen? I know the brake requires a break in period but they seem very weak. Lever feel seems on the mushy side but if I squeeze them several times almost to the bar they become much better. Any help is appreciated.

 

[coma13]

I just installed a brand new set of Juicy 7's. When I adjust the pad dials inwards following the arrows the brakes become less responsive and require the levers to come all the way to the bar to stop. Is this normal or is the opposite of what should happen? I know the brake requires a break in period but they seem very weak. Lever feel seems on the mushy side but if I squeeze them several times almost to the bar they become much better. Any help is appreciated.

Why don't you turn the dial the other way then?

 

[RM27]

Why don't you turn the dial the other way then?

Thanks I figured that out already. I need to know if these have to back to Avid or not.

 

[Johnny Hair Boy]

?????

If pumping the lever makes the brake feel better you most likly have a leak in the master cylinder. Try this, pull the lever as far as you can and then zip tie it to the bar. Let it sit for quite a wile and the check if the wheel is still locked if not then you definatly have a leaky master cylinder.
I hope that helps.

 

[RM27]

If pumping the lever makes the brake feel better you most likly have a leak in the master cylinder. Try this, pull the lever as far as you can and then zip tie it to the bar. Let it sit for quite a wile and the check if the wheel is still locked if not then you definatly have a leaky master cylinder.
I hope that helps.

Thanks for the response. I zip tied it around the bar for about an hour. The wheel was still locked, I guess I can rule this out.

 

[keen]

Try resetting the pistons. When I received my 7's the pads were fully bottomed in the caliper. Mounted on the bike I could see the pads were aways from the rotor. When I pulled the lever the pads hit the rotor w/ the lever near the bars. When I released the lever the pads returned to the original position far from the rotor. I pulled the caliper off the rotor and squeezed the lever till the pads moved in just enough to slide on the rotor - now my brake lever moves very little , firm brakes. Caliper pistons use square cut o ring's that act as an internal return spring sometimes they need setting (new brakes or pads).

 

[frogstar]

I just installed a brand new set of Juicy 7's. When I adjust the pad dials inwards following the arrows the brakes become less responsive and require the levers to come all the way to the bar to stop. Is this normal or is the opposite of what should happen? I know the brake requires a break in period but they seem very weak. Lever feel seems on the mushy side but if I squeeze them several times almost to the bar they become much better. Any help is appreciated.

I thought the dial was for mere contact-point adjusting - that is where in the lever travel the main piston is "engaged". The pads in the calipers stay put as in other open systems. Of course I am happy to be corrected on this, but that is how my juicys fell - turn the adjuster cw and the lever travel increases / oposite.

- Fx

 

[RM27]

Thanks to all who have responded. I believe Frogstar is correct. I was able to locate a review on Pinkbike that explained how the brake and the pad adjuster works. Spinning the dial in allows the brakes to engage with the lever closer to the bars.