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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just a note to all. Many have recommended Jagwire teflon cables. I tried using their coated brake cables with Nokons and it didn't work. The cables are nice because they have a nice thick teflon coating, but it's too thick to slide inside the Nokon liner.
So I went ahead and used a generic uncoated cable with the Nokons and switched from the stock Tektro levers to Avid FR-5's.
The difference in my front brake feel is incredible. Before, I had Jagwire kevlar housing with Jagwire teflon cables. I only used this setup for a couple weeks.
I don't know whether to attribute the difference to the Nokons or the levers. I doubt there's much difference in compression between the Jagwire housing and the Nokon, so I'm inclined to say the FR-5 levers designed for mechanical brakes are the difference.
I'm waiting for another Nokon set to arrive along with an Old Man Mountain rear rack adaptor so I can mount the rear BB5's on the rear along with the other FR-5 lever.
As a side note, I found the Nokon setup actually easier than Flak Jackets. The Flak Jacket liner "set up for my front and rear derailleurs) has a wider inside diameter than the Nokon's, but it's walls are much thinner. The red Flak Jacket liner bend and crimped too easily during install and they failed the first rain test.
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Jesse David Smith said:
Just a note to all. Many have recommended Jagwire teflon cables. I tried using their coated brake cables with Nokons and it didn't work. The cables are nice because they have a nice thick teflon coating, but it's too thick to slide inside the Nokon liner...
Strange. It works for me.
 

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anyone tried using nokons together with full metal jackets? using the FMJ's on the straight runs of cable that is. or any idea if it will work?

i haven't tried it or seen it done, but i imagine that this will reduce the friction created (if any) when the cable goes through the holes in the cable stops..
 

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langen said:
anyone tried using nokons together with full metal jackets? using the FMJ's on the straight runs of cable that is. or any idea if it will work?

i haven't tried it or seen it done, but i imagine that this will reduce the friction created (if any) when the cable goes through the holes in the cable stops..
I have. Works great. I did it mainly to reduce the rattle of the housing against the TT and the amount of Nokon beads I needed. The Nokon can be floppy. I did not notice any friction difference.
 

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shiggy said:
I have. Works great. I did it mainly to reduce the rattle of the housing against the TT and the amount of Nokon beads I needed. The Nokon can be floppy. I did not notice any friction difference.
:)

i'm guessing that nokon+FMJ may be pretty close to the ultimate cable system for BB7's. i think i am going to try it on my next bike
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
shiggy said:
Strange. It works for me.
I'm assuming Nokon liner is the same for brake and derailleur. I got the cables on Ebay. He has them in bulk quantities. It's possible these are "defective" in that they received too much teflon coating. It's a noticably thicker coating than are on their derailleur cables. These cables ran with some drag in the Jagwire kevlar housing I had on before.
 

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Jesse David Smith said:
I'm assuming Nokon liner is the same for brake and derailleur. I got the cables on Ebay. He has them in bulk quantities. It's possible these are "defective" in that they received too much teflon coating. It's a noticably thicker coating than are on their derailleur cables. These cables ran with some drag in the Jagwire kevlar housing I had on before.
My Jagwire coated cables are smooth and I would not call the coating thick.
 

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Flak jacket

I consider upgrading to Avid Flak Jacket shift/derail cables one of the best upgrades I've made to my bike, although I can't vouch for the brake cables as I have hydraulics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
HTail said:
I consider upgrading to Avid Flak Jacket shift/derail cables one of the best upgrades I've made to my bike, although I can't vouch for the brake cables as I have hydraulics.
I had Flak Jackets on the derailleurs. After the first rain ride, water got in and froze. I was surprised because I installed them correctly, and everything seemed to fit tight between the ferrules and housing and the nose-end of the ferrules and the red liner, but with all the interruptions on the connections, there could be just too many places water can get in versus the Nokons while have a continuous, unbroken length of liner from shifter to derailleur. Keeping in mind, this is a winter commuter bike where mud getting in the housing isn't the issue, but total waterproofing from rain which falls from above and runs down alongside the frame tubes, housing, etc. is the main problems. A little water in the housing wouldn't be a huge problem, but this is Maine where the water will freeze overnight.
The only other possibility is that the water got in through the very end of the housing which starts at the shifter.
I initially bought two Nokon shifter sets and an extra liner kit. I didn't think I'd have enough housing to run full-length housing for the shifters, so I just went with full-length liner and housing only in the traditional places. It turned out I probably had enough housing left over to at least run the front shifter full length. I wound up using the extra housing for the front disc brake setup. I have two additional Nokon brake cable sets arriving on Monday, so I have more than enough to complete both brakes and derailleurs.
 
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