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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well there you have it. I only have 2 rides in on it so far, but I really like it. So far I feel the bike is really balanced. I've enclosed some picture showing, tire clearances, and fork& rotor clearance. I was going to get the WB bw.8, but it was back ordered for 3 months and I gave up. Plus I wanted King Hubs for the engagment. I heard there was compatability issues with king hubs on the WB bw.8 fork. No problems with the Reba/King/Hope combo. When I first got the frame it looked real tight. I mean that in the sense of shoe/ tire overlap. I wear size 44 and I have about 2" of clearance between my shoe and front tire. I did have clearance issues with the Reba gate adj knob and downtube, but was remedied by swaping for an internal adjuster ("Race" to "SL"). I also thought the 70.8 degree head angle might have been slow, but it's not. It been Titus's experience for FS XC stability this works best . . . Why 70.8 and not 71? Sag compensation. It was Full custom. I sent the my body measurment, and picture if me on my last bike, and the geometry of that bike. Every angle and tube length was debated. I've ridden a lot of bikes, and I usually find something the bike does that I have to watch out for just plain don't like, and I'd have to say even with the 26" to 29" switch I've felt comfortable on the bike and it does everything that we ( Titus & I ) planned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mai Ti

endure26 said:
That's a sweet looking bike! Looking forward to a more detailed ride report once you get some miles on her. Is that front triangle aluminum or Ti? Hard to tell because of the color. Very nice either way.
It's Titanium. I could have gone with the Exo-Grid downtube for an extra $700! It's cool looking and all, and it saves about 1/3 lbs. they say.

http://www.titusti.com/exo_iso.html

But $700 is a nice wheelset. Plus I know how all my carbon parts get a times. No matter how careful I am, they just end up with pits & dings. So replacing a carbon component is one thing, a frame is another. The bike weight in around 26Lbs. I had targeted 24.5-25 Lbs. using an American Classic wheelset, and a XTR cassette.

I'm also thinking about the Stans 29" rims (400g) or Ritchey Trekking (470g) rims, with Sapim, X-Ray spokes or DT Super Comps; vs. Salsa rims (560g) w/DT Competition spokes. The Ritcheys are spec'd like Bonti, Mustangs, but are a little cheaper, and are 90 grams lighter, that's 180grams total. I just wonder how well the stan's 29" rims are. I mean 400 grams, how do you take 60g off a Bonti Mustang.

Do this experiment, find 60grams of aluminum and look to see how much material 60 grams of aluminum is. It takes up a lot of volume. One thing is for sure, they are race day wheels, heck combine that with his Aluminun rotors, and a interlock aluminum cassette and I might be able to get it under 25Lbs. well on race day that is.
 

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giddy up!
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Hexonxonx said:
It's Titanium. I could have gone with the Exo-Grid downtube for an extra $700! It's cool looking and all, and it saves about 1/3 lbs. they say.

http://www.titusti.com/exo_iso.html

But $700 is a nice wheelset. Plus I know how all my carbon parts get a times. No matter how careful I am, they just end up with pits & dings. So replacing a carbon component is one thing, a frame is another. The bike weight in around 26Lbs. I had targeted 24.5-25 Lbs. using an American Classic wheelset, and a XTR cassette.

I'm also thinking about the Stans 29" rims (400g) or Ritchey Trekking (470g) rims, with Sapim, X-Ray spokes or DT Super Comps; vs. Salsa rims (560g) w/DT Competition spokes. The Ritcheys are spec'd like Bonti, Mustangs, but are a little cheaper, and are 90 grams lighter, that's 180grams total. I just wonder how well the stan's 29" rims are. I mean 400 grams, how do you take 60g off a Bonti Mustang.

Do this experiment, find 60grams of aluminum and look to see how much material 60 grams of aluminum is. It takes up a lot of volume. One thing is for sure, they are race day wheels, heck combine that with his Aluminun rotors, and a interlock aluminum cassette and I might be able to get it under 25Lbs. well on race day that is.
Be careful with the ritchey...that's the claimed weight. MIne are absolute tanks!
 

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Let's ride
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Beauty of a bike.

Have you considered bolt on skewers? I know some are partial to skewers if they need to take the wheel off all the time.

Yes, please keep us in the loop on the ride reports.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
To Donkey & Rensho

donkey said:
Be careful with the ritchey...that's the claimed weight. MIne are absolute tanks!
rensho said:
Beauty of a bike.

Have you considered bolt on skewers? I know some are partial to skewers if they need to take the wheel off all the time.

Yes, please keep us in the loop on the ride reports.
Donkey: Arrrgh! I orignally looked at the Salsa's because of the claimed weight of 460grams. I would mind even if they were 500 grams off, but a full 100, I think that must be a typo on there site, but atleast I had a chance to weight them before I bought them. I just ordered the Ritchey's sight unseen. Well at least Stan is telling you what tolerance his rims will be within. I mean being realistic everything machined is going to have some toerance + or - something, but for some odd reason is seems to be always plus . . . Hmmm.

Rensho: I never really considered bolt-on skewers because I'm planning on racing it, and if I get a flat I don't want to fumble around with a wrench. I had plans on getting a 20mm thru axel WD bw.8, but chose to go with QR for the same reason. I chose the Hope skewers because they have a brass washer behind the lever giving it a solid and tight feel. I put a little Phil Tenacious oil on it and it locks the wheel in like a vice with minimal effort. I could have went light, but I think the security in this place is worth it. As far as weight savings goes. The thiking in planning the bike was light weight & reliability. I didn't want a 28Lbs. bike. There were certain expectations though, since 29" parts are about 20% biggger it will had to weight 20% more. If I could spec together a combination of, lets say 10 parts that weighted 46 grams less, then I knew I could save a pound at that point, but 46 grams by it's self is really inconsequential. Although I must say I ran out of money on this project and the Bars (Easton Carbon 70), Thomson Stem, Thomson post, and WTB saddle were from my previous bike. I had plans to go Ritchey Carbon bars, Stem, & Carbon Post. That would have saved around 200 grams, so almost a 1/2 Lbs. It would be nice to get that Ritchey stuff and some lighter rims and spokes to make it down into the 25 something Lbs. range for a FS 29" MTB, but that will have to weight, It's time to ride.
 

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featherweight clydesdale
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Looks like you already sprung for the Ti/Alum bolt kit too. Is the weight with or without pedals? I noticed no pedals in the pic. You could go with Syntace stem over the Thomson and drop around 80g.

Did you weigh your frame and rear shock before you built it?? The frame and shock below was 6.8 pounds before I added the ti/alum bolt kit.

Another RX pic, just to compare an contrast what Titus does for taller riders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ahhh yes

Fattirewilly said:
Looks like you already sprung for the Ti/Alum bolt kit too. Is the weight with or without pedals? I noticed no pedals in the pic. You could go with Syntace stem over the Thomson and drop around 80g.

Did you weigh your frame and rear shock before you built it?? The frame and shock below was 6.8 pounds before I added the ti/alum bolt kit.

Another RX pic, just to compare an contrast what Titus does for taller riders.
______

These weights are a mixed of proposed, and actual. It's been so long I forget what's what, but I know for sure the Frame, Shock, and Ti upgrade kit weighted in at 5Lbs,13oz. (Almost the weight of an 18" Karate Monkey).

Yea the pedal, that's a sore point right now. The weight doesn't include the pedals yea Shame!, Shame!. I've got fallen arches so I have to use kneesavers
http://www.bikescor.com/product/knee.htm
so my ankles don't hit my crankarms. If your not familiar with them they are big, heavy, threaded pieces of metal to extend the pedal out from the crank arm. I don't actually need 20mm of extension, so I've been looking for someone to make me a set of custom axles for my shim 959. I just found out that Speedplay can make their pedals with 1/8"( 3.2mm), 1/4" (6.35mm), and 1/2" (12.7mm) custom extension. I'm not sure I like the action of the speed play. I know for sure Time make my knees hurt with all the float they have, the same for Crank Bros. I've been using Shim 959 for the last 3 years and since this is such a temperamental thing I don't really want to change since I don't have problem. It would be nice if I could get a set of custom axles made, but since Knee savers makes them in Titanium now I might get a set of those. . . . anybody do custom machining? . . . I've asked and called around but I haven't done the vigorous data scrubbing. I guess I need to get this done. Has anybody had both the Speedplay Frogs, and Shimano 959? Do they feel similar, and how do Frogs handle mud?

The stem is an interesting note. I had an FSA carbon post with the extended lay back to compensate for changing from (72.5 seat tube angle & Thomson Straight Post) on my last bike to the 73.5 on the Titus. In order for the suspension on my bike to work right the seat tube angle needs to be 73.5, so getting a post with layback works that out. Ultimately the reach from the seat to bars is the most critical dimension, and it was maintained with a slightly shorter top tube. The FSA extended setback (I've been calling it a Hockey Stick) put the seat back too far so I changed to my Thompson straight until I get a post with regular setback. I have a MaxM, 100mm stem (130grams), but switched to the Thompson 110 to compensate for moving the saddle forward. but I kind'a like the saddle in this forward position. Normally I like the tip of the saddle 7cm behind the center of the BB, the FSA put it at 8cm with the saddle sitting almost on back of it's rails! I probably could get it to work, but it would have looked funny. I mean it would work, but I've spent to much money at this point to have something look like it was compromised or that it doesn't fit. As you can see in the picture the saddle is position all the way on the front of the rail getting around 6cm behind the BB.

Grm Lbs.
Frame Racer-X 29" Titanium 2637 5.81
Shock Fox RP3
Xtra Titanium Bolts
Fork Rock Shox, Reba- Race 1737 3.83
Rear Der SRAM X.0 (Long Cage) 210 0.46
Front Der XTR 960 132 0.29
Shifter SRAM X.9 Trig 208 0.46
Brake Front & Rot Hope, Mono Mini, 160 350 0.77
Brake Rear& Rot Hope, Mono Mini, 160 350 0.77
Crank & B/B Race Face Deus 825 1.82
Chain Shimano XTR (7801) 280 0.62
Handlebar Easton EC-70 (Old) 125 0.28
Grips Salsa, Juegos de Fuego 94 0.21
Stem Thomson Elite 110 190 0.42
Headset Chris King 121 0.27
Seat Post Thomson (Old) 225 0.50
Saddle WTB Laser (Old) 235 0.52
Hubs Chris King - ISO ( EP) 472 1.04
Spokes DT Comp 2.0/1.8/2.0 392 0.86
Nipples DT Swiss (Black) Alloy 20 0.04
Rim Salsa Delgrado-X 540 1.19
Rim Salsa Delgrado-X 540 1.19
Skewers Hope 120 0.26
Cassette Shimano, XT, 11-32 (Old) 260 0.57
Front Tire WTB, Nano Raptor 625 1.38
Rear Tire WTB, Nano Raptor 625 1.38
Tube Bontrager, 29er 190 0.42
Tube Bontrager, 29er 190 0.42
Rim Tape Velox
11693 25.78
 

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Get your freak on!
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Awesome bike! I love it!

I noticed that you said you were using Velox rim tape..

You should conisder 3m strapping tape, you can get a massive roll of it for real cheap and it will save a decent amount of weight.

I second the bolt on skewers...
 

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If you think that Eggbeaters have too much float the Frogs will probably kill you. Like walking on ice. I like them, and for those with torque-sensitive knees they are great, but if you need to feel like you have some kind of torsional support or feedback from your feet you are NOT going to get that with Frogs.

BTW, nice bike!
 
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