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Bike to the Bone...
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I was talking the other day with Arivas, and I seem to be changing things in my ML that make it heavier.

I changed the FR lowers, a Selle San Marco saddle, and RS Revelation fork and the bike feels heavier. Now I'm on the way to weight it with a DHX 5.0 coil.

Anyway, this is just purely rant and I really like my ML. BTW, I didn't get to ride this weekend, which does no real good to my mood.
 

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I don't know if this is the same thing, but I just upgraded from a Flux to an RFX with the DHX coil. While it is setup as a heavy duty trailbike, it is still 6-7 pounds heavier than the Flux.

What I can say is the weight increase is really only apparent when I pick the bike up. Riding it, including on climbs is a completely different issue. It doesn't feel heavy, as well as offering me a better power input and cadence. I posted recently about the possibility of a "sweet spot" in power because I'm riding harder and faster, especially on climbs with less fatigue. While the power sweet spot is entirely possible, the quality of the shock could be making a huge difference. Regardless, the perception I have is when I would climb in the Flux (middle chainring only), I would either spin like mad or slow myself down to keep a constant pedaling force. Either way, I'd get burnt on climbs and I don't like the feel of so easily overspinning the gears on a light bike. On the RFX, I am not overspinning, and inputting more torque, but the perception is of an easier climb, go figure. I also think the stiffness in the rear end (which you might experience with the FR lowers) would help the perception. Weighting also seems to allow for less "grip or slip" behavior on climbs.
 

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thats right living legend
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rzozaya1969 said:
I was talking the other day with Arivas, and I seem to be changing things in my ML that make it heavier.

I changed the FR lowers, a Selle San Marco saddle, and RS Revelation fork and the bike feels heavier. Now I'm on the way to weight it with a DHX 5.0 coil.

Anyway, this is just purely rant and I really like my ML. BTW, I didn't get to ride this weekend, which does no real good to my mood.

It'll only make you stronger... Hel with the wieght!

BTW I rode my ass of all weekend "hee hee":D
 

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Having just bought a Motolite to replace my Spesh Enduro (2004 S-Works), although the bike isn't any lighter (if it is it's not noticable), the stiffness in the frame really helps the bike to climb better, so from this I draw the conclusion that frame stiffness can help to counteract some of the effects of increased weight. Also, suspension efficiency can help to counteract increased weight.
 

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"El Whatever"
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Unless you add weight to the wheels (your tyres are still on the light side, being kevlar bead and nice compounds/build), you won't notice much the difference of the bike and all the added stiffness and such, helps; as mentioned by Mikey74.

You'll be fine. It's an awesome build that one you have there.
 

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Noticed the same

I've been kinda feeling sluggish lately myself. I got the DHX along with a 2.1 and a 2.35 Nevegal DTC (before I was running the RP3, Conti Vertical Pro 2.3 upfront and a Maxxis Mobster 2.1 Exception in back). The bike did seam sluggish. My last ride I went back to the RP3, Maxxis Advantage 2.1 upfront and a Mobster 2.1 in back. Bike seemed zippier (and I could almost hang with a budy on his Specialized Epic). I think next I'm gonna try a 2.4 Advantage upfront and see how this works.

Chris
 

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Bike to the Bone...
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Discussion Starter #7
I'm going for an 8 inch disc rotor up front. I would had liked a 7", but I have Shimano XT centerlock brakes and they only come at 160 or 203mm.....
 

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thats right living legend
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You Control???

Jerk_Chicken said:
Same here, sort of. I'm upping to a 180 in the front, while keeping the 6" rear. The 180 might give me a better bit of control, even though I don't have trouble with the Hope Mono Mini 6".


Noway!!!
 

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rzozaya1969 said:
I'm going for an 8 inch disc rotor up front. I would had liked a 7", but I have Shimano XT centerlock brakes and they only come at 160 or 203mm.....
Hi!

You can get an LX/Hone SM-RT-62M rotor in 180mm. I am running one in the front of my Epic. Check it out http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7687

EDIT: Maybe with the part number you could source it locally (along with the Shimano 180 adapter SM-MA-F180P/S (for IS forks) which would fit your Revelation).

There is some more info in this thread
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=137835


Cheers,
Cris



 

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Jerk_Chicken said:
Same here, sort of. I'm upping to a 180 in the front, while keeping the 6" rear. The 180 might give me a better bit of control, even though I don't have trouble with the Hope Mono Mini 6".
JC, thought you may have had a bigger disk that 180 on your RFX. The 180 must be doing the job though, thought you would have 203 up front and 180 on the rare................
 

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Whafe said:
JC, thought you may have had a bigger disk that 180 on your RFX. The 180 must be doing the job though, thought you would have 203 up front and 180 on the rare................
Na, I have a 160/160 right now that serves my purposes well, including several mountain runs. The 180 front is mainly to move my caliper away from the spokes, perhaps give me some more control on the short DH runs I'm making.
 

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Jerk_Chicken said:
Na, I have a 160/160 right now that serves my purposes well, including several mountain runs. The 180 front is mainly to move my caliper away from the spokes, perhaps give me some more control on the short DH runs I'm making.
Makes sense then, was thinking sh!t if you are doing some big DH runs, you would get some fade......................All good.............

Have moved up to a 180 mm rota on the ML, way better than the 160 on the front....
 

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Bike to the Bone...
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Discussion Starter #17
Whafe said:
Makes sense then, was thinking sh!t if you are doing some big DH runs, you would get some fade......................All good.............

Have moved up to a 180 mm rota on the ML, way better than the 160 on the front....
I just have a question regarding larger rotors, is rotor warp an issue. And no, I'm not reffering to an known user here, I'm referings as warp as when something is not aligned to what it should be, er, still sounds like the character we know, but I think you understand me ;)
 

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Well, oddly enough, I was using my old rear brake for the mtn runs and I warped my rear rotor, but never had fade or pump up even once. It seems that when the rotor cooled, it warped. It was one of the round Maggie rotors. Surprising since they're a bit on the thick side. The front floating Hope 160 fared well. I did notice the Hope carrier accepts more heat from the braking surface than the center section of the Maggie rotor.
 

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rzozaya1969 said:
I just have a question regarding larger rotors, is rotor warp an issue. And no, I'm not reffering to an known user here, I'm referings as warp as when something is not aligned to what it should be, er, still sounds like the character we know, but I think you understand me ;)
On my Ellsworth Dare, which I thrashed, had 203 mm rotas front and back. Have never had an issue with warping at all................. Not saying go that big, should not really need it.............. You will love bigger anchors, :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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"El Whatever"
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I have had some rotors warping after cooling, as JC says. It happened on an Avid Mech, and I'm positive that it has happened to my Maggies too.

Oddly... sometimes the warpings self-correct with brake use. It's not a constant, though and I ignore what's the reason behind it. Stress relief?

All rotors, any brand will warp if heated enough. The ones with Al carriers, maybe less. But it's because the stresses inside the material and constant heating/cooling. This is why manufacturers try to minimize heating of the brake (as well as to prevent fade, boiling fluid, seal failure, etc.)
 
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