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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had my Trek Rail 7 for a year now. I'm loving the bike but I've never had a bike with this many issues before.

A few months in the rear hub stopped engaging in the middle of a ride. When I pulled the rear wheel off to investigate the pawls went flying into the bushes. I had to push the bike off the trail. The shop got everything back in order for me.

The shifting has been tough to keep running smoothly and I've already replaced the chain and cassette.

Recently I had the nondrive side crank come loose during a couple rides. After bringing this in a 2nd time they called e thirteen and had them replace it under warranty.

A few months back the bracket that holds the battery came loose and I was unable to get the battery locked in and was unable to ride the bike. Again the shop replaced it free of charge.

I've also noticed that the paint has chipped off the frame more than I've ever seen with any of my past bikes.

When the bike works it's a lot of fun to ride. I can't help but wonder if some of this is the rail is a relatively new bike line and maybe not all of the ebike specific parts are dialed in yet. The Trek dealer has been good about helping me out with these issues. Just wondering if anyone else has been experiencing these kinds of problems.
 

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I've also had my rail just over a year , I haven't had any of those problems. But I only have around 600 miles on mine. I checked it over when it had around 400 miles , I found a few loose bolts and the front sprocket retaining bolt loose.
 

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When I bought my Rail 7, nearly everything that should have been torqued during assembly was loose, and the bike shop obviously didn't check the bike before delivery. After buying a couple tools (for the chairing nut), and torquing everything, all's well. (I did safety wire the chainring nut.)
As far as the crank arms, they should be torqued during assembly, and again after a few miles, then again prior to the next few rides. I did that, and both have stayed torqued for 400 miles.
 

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If you read back some months ago a rider wrote his was expensive many things were changed within a year.
I prefer a 10 speeds for an Ebike we do not need more and it saves lots of $$.
Hopefully your LBS is close to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When I bought my Rail 7, nearly everything that should have been torqued during assembly was loose, and the bike shop obviously didn't check the bike before delivery. After buying a couple tools (for the chairing nut), and torquing everything, all's well. (I did safety wire the chainring nut.)
As far as the crank arms, they should be torqued during assembly, and again after a few miles, then again prior to the next few rides. I did that, and both have stayed torqued for 400 miles.
That's good news that you got everything to stay in good shape. The Trek dealer that I bought the bike from seemed to think the crank arms needed to be replaced since they kept coming loose.
 

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When I bought my Rail 7, nearly everything that should have been torqued during assembly was loose, and the bike shop obviously didn't check the bike before delivery. After buying a couple tools (for the chairing nut), and torquing everything, all's well. (I did safety wire the chainring nut.)
As far as the crank arms, they should be torqued during assembly, and again after a few miles, then again prior to the next few rides. I did that, and both have stayed torqued for 400 miles.
I’ve got a Rail 7 and did likewise. First the chainring lockring loosened; caught that before the lockring unwound completely so bought the tools to remove the crank and tighten that lockring. Loctite is my friend.
But then the NDS crank arm fell off during a ride. Twice. The first time (thank heaven the bolt was easily found about 6’ behind the place I stopped) I picked up the pieces and reinstalled, torqued hard (in the field — no torque wrench). Figured it just hadn’t been torqued from the factory so I forgot about it. But after the second time (again, I was lucky to find the bolt), I took it home, cleaned all the grease off everything and again applied Loctite. This was several hundred miles ago with no recurrence of crank loss.
Things were obviously not properly torqued at the factory nor were they checked by my dealer during final assembly. It’s not right but my expectations are low regarding that sort of thing so I’m not upset. But If I‘d lost that crank arm bolt… I sure would have been.
In all other regards the Rail 7 has been a terrific ebike.
=sParty
 

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2800 miles on my Rail 9.7 since last February here. Within a month, drivetrain roasted (rear hub, rim, cassette). Went 10 speed Deore full steel carrier cassette (with exception of two smallest cogs that are loose) with Zee FR derailleur, Saint 10spd shifter. No drivetrain issues since as long don’t torque hard in high gears especially at slower speeds, like sprinting out from a stop. Also rear hub to full steel DT 350 Hybrid with steel step ratchet seems to help tremendously along with heavy duty rear rim and full 2-ply tires (badly damaged and smashed stock Bontrager rear rim with flimsy XR5 stock tires even with foam insert liner and 32psi.

Other upgrades include, Zeb Ultimate 170 fork to replace Yari 160. DVO Jade-X coil with progressive spring to replace air shock. TRP DH EVO brakes, proper 200mm post (PNW Loam). Preferred saddle, cockpit and this things rips.

Only caveat is rattly/finicky RIB designed battery system that slops around and shorts power despite Trek’s special battery mounting alignment bracket plate and rubberized strip. I have to strap down battery around frame with two very tight velcro tension straps to minimize battery rattle and shorts. Also, battery life not the greatest and seems to lessen over time with 625w/hr battery. If any longer than 2hrs ride time, I have to really conserve battery useage and spend most time climbing in ECO.

Outside of these things the bike rips (faster than regular bikes on DH’s when motor off) especially after the upgrades from stock build and replacing main pivot bearings that went south this year as well. Still love the bike and regular bikes see little use since Rail the most fun for me!
 

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I got my 2020 Rail 7 in April 2021, so far I have close to 800 miles, it’s been back to the shop multiple times, the first was when the chainring came loose, that was the second ride I took it out, shop fixed it free of charge, two rides later the drive side crank came loose causing the chain to get stuck in the chainguide and snapped the chain! I literally entered the trail head hit some roots when this happened. Come to find out there was a missing washer and they ordered it. My little wrench emblem appeared (600 miles) so I took it in for service, they installed a new update and tuned up the bike, now I’m experiencing extreme bad shifting in gears 4,5 and 6, I believe the cassette is toast. I agree what others said, 10 speed is the way to go(or prime 9).
Does anyone know if they make a 10 speed free hub for the stock wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I got my 2020 Rail 7 in April 2021, so far I have close to 800 miles, it’s been back to the shop multiple times, the first was when the chainring came loose, that was the second ride I took it out, shop fixed it free of charge, two rides later the drive side crank came loose causing the chain to get stuck in the chainguide and snapped the chain! I literally entered the trail head hit some roots when this happened. Come to find out there was a missing washer and they ordered it. My little wrench emblem appeared (600 miles) so I took it in for service, they installed a new update and tuned up the bike, now I’m experiencing extreme bad shifting in gears 4,5 and 6, I believe the cassette is toast. I agree what others said, 10 speed is the way to go(or prime 9).
Does anyone know if they make a 10 speed free hub for the stock wheels?
I have never had a bike that was this tough to keep the shifting smooth. I don't know if it's the added torque on the drivetrain. Did you figure out if the chain needed to be replaced?
 

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It probably is the added torque on the drivetrain. Try to avoid shifting under load - and don't forget to carry a spare master link and chain tool in your pack. Also, not a bad idea to check your chain stretch every time you clean and lube your chain.
 

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I have never had a bike that was this tough to keep the shifting smooth. I don't know if it's the added torque on the drivetrain. Did you figure out if the chain needed to be replaced?
I find it easier to shift in the adaptive modes. Shifting smoothly in Turbo is a skill I'll have to work on, but I spend nearly all my time in EMTB Lite.
 

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I have never had a bike that was this tough to keep the shifting smooth. I don't know if it's the added torque on the drivetrain. Did you figure out if the chain needed to be replaced?
I ended up having the chain replaced and still shifted bad, so then I bought a new cassette and that fixed the problem. The only problem is I could only find a 12 speed in 46T.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It probably is the added torque on the drivetrain. Try to avoid shifting under load - and don't forget to carry a spare master link and chain tool in your pack. Also, not a bad idea to check your chain stretch every time you clean and lube your chain.
I do try to make my shifting as smooth as possible and I try to avoid stomping on the pedals in higher assist modes like you've suggested.

I also purchased a chain stretch measuring tool after swapping out my drivetrain a few months back. (What the heck is that tool even called?) You're right, I need to start using it!
 

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I have the Park CC-2 chain checker tool. However, something is still not right with your Rail, your mix of new parts or how you are riding it. Why not take it a different Trek dealer for a second opinion?

PS: My 2021 Trek 9.7 built by a dealer in Livermore, CA has been perfecto, even with the lowly 12 speed NX Eagle :ROFLMAO:
 

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The only issue I've had is the interior battery mount breaking causing it to fall out after a long long intense downhill. Bike shop used a stronger bolt to fix the issue. Battery is still providing plenty of juice and haven't had any worries about range. When I bought the bike, before they would let it out the door they did an hour inspection to make sure everything was tightened. Seems that was a necessary step to avoid issues i see in the posts above.

I delayed replacing the chain for too long (having too much fun) and now my lazy ass needs to replace the drivetrain due to wear (1600miles), but I chalk that up to user error.

I'm planning to upgrade the internals of the yari fork, but keeping everything else stock due to extra costs on the new drivetrain.
 
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