I understand that this may be a wide spread problem so I am posting it so people with a Fox rear shock on their Burner can check it out before any damage occurs. (Sorry if it is a bit too long)
It seems that Fox has supplied at least some (many?) shocks with reducer/spacers (the two little aluminum "top hats" that press into the eyelet at each end of the shock where the frame mounting bolt passes through) with improper tolerances. There are some that are too short at the part that inserts into the eyelet. This results in the two "top hats" not meeting in the middle. When the mounting bolt is torqued, the "brim" of the two top hats then pinches the shock eyelet, preventing the bushing from rotating when the rocker moves. What happens then is the rotation occurs between the rocker and the reducer instead of between the bushing and the reducer. Depending on how tight the bolt is torqued, there may be inordinate twisting load on the shock. I have seen one shock that was damaged because of too much lateral force on it. Also, an unlubricated aluminum to aluminum wear surface is clearly not optimal. The other tolerance that may be improper is the diameter of the part that inserts may be too large. This causes the same result- the rotation occurs between the rocker and the reducer, instead of the bushing as it was meant to.
I spoke to Turner about this and it is a problem they are aware of. They have been unable to get it corrected by Fox, and recommended that I machine down the spacers until they fit properly. They also suggested that I contact Fox and have them send me new spacers and bushings.
I then spoke with Fox who basically said there is no problem with their product. When I asked what clearance was specified between the brim of the top hat and the eyelet, however, they did not have a specified tolerance! They said after a five or six rides the bushing will loosen up. In my case it would not have since the reducers did not meet in the middle AND the diameter was too large. Even with 15ft/lbs on the bolt, ALL the rotation was ar the rocker. So nothing was moving in there to ever "loosen up".
You can check yours by putting a small dot with a Sharpie on the reducer and one on the eye of the shock and compressing the rear suspension. The two dots should move relative to one another. If not, the rotation is not happening at the bushing. Next look closely at the rocker/ reducer interface and see if the rotation is happening there.
I followed Turners advice and removed some material from the reducers. The way I did it was to put the reducer on a drill bit which fit the hole snugly. Before I slid it on I wrapped some tape on the bit. When the reducer slid onto the bit the tape wedged it on. I ran the drill in reverse (it stayed on better) and lightly touched the reducer with a fine metal file until the diameter was small enough to fit snugly into the eyelet. Be carefull not to remove too much. I then placed a very thin washer (.010") with the right size hole in between the two top hats, and reassembled.
Everything works as it should now. Much less stiction too. But this is clearly a gerry rigged arrangement not befitting a bike of this caliber. If this is a widespread enough problem, perhaps Fox will outfit us with proper reducers and new bushings.
It seems that Fox has supplied at least some (many?) shocks with reducer/spacers (the two little aluminum "top hats" that press into the eyelet at each end of the shock where the frame mounting bolt passes through) with improper tolerances. There are some that are too short at the part that inserts into the eyelet. This results in the two "top hats" not meeting in the middle. When the mounting bolt is torqued, the "brim" of the two top hats then pinches the shock eyelet, preventing the bushing from rotating when the rocker moves. What happens then is the rotation occurs between the rocker and the reducer instead of between the bushing and the reducer. Depending on how tight the bolt is torqued, there may be inordinate twisting load on the shock. I have seen one shock that was damaged because of too much lateral force on it. Also, an unlubricated aluminum to aluminum wear surface is clearly not optimal. The other tolerance that may be improper is the diameter of the part that inserts may be too large. This causes the same result- the rotation occurs between the rocker and the reducer, instead of the bushing as it was meant to.
I spoke to Turner about this and it is a problem they are aware of. They have been unable to get it corrected by Fox, and recommended that I machine down the spacers until they fit properly. They also suggested that I contact Fox and have them send me new spacers and bushings.
I then spoke with Fox who basically said there is no problem with their product. When I asked what clearance was specified between the brim of the top hat and the eyelet, however, they did not have a specified tolerance! They said after a five or six rides the bushing will loosen up. In my case it would not have since the reducers did not meet in the middle AND the diameter was too large. Even with 15ft/lbs on the bolt, ALL the rotation was ar the rocker. So nothing was moving in there to ever "loosen up".
You can check yours by putting a small dot with a Sharpie on the reducer and one on the eye of the shock and compressing the rear suspension. The two dots should move relative to one another. If not, the rotation is not happening at the bushing. Next look closely at the rocker/ reducer interface and see if the rotation is happening there.
I followed Turners advice and removed some material from the reducers. The way I did it was to put the reducer on a drill bit which fit the hole snugly. Before I slid it on I wrapped some tape on the bit. When the reducer slid onto the bit the tape wedged it on. I ran the drill in reverse (it stayed on better) and lightly touched the reducer with a fine metal file until the diameter was small enough to fit snugly into the eyelet. Be carefull not to remove too much. I then placed a very thin washer (.010") with the right size hole in between the two top hats, and reassembled.
Everything works as it should now. Much less stiction too. But this is clearly a gerry rigged arrangement not befitting a bike of this caliber. If this is a widespread enough problem, perhaps Fox will outfit us with proper reducers and new bushings.