[FishMan473]

Had to replace a spike in my rear wheel. Don’t have any fat-width rim tape on hand. Is it going to work if I just tape over the spike holes or is sealant going to foul the tape adhesive?

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[rockychrysler]

As pictured, no, it's prolly not gonna work at all. Your "spike" appears to be too long and your rim tape looks to be insufficient for either a tubed and tubeless setup.

 

[11053]

you can make that work.
suggest you run few more overlapping wraps of tape on either side of the spoke holes though.
i've used skinny tape on fatbike rims in the past and by employing one continuous loop that overlaps side to side to cover most of the rim will get you rolling.
if you do that you'll prevent sealant from creeping under the tape by the spoke holes for a bit longer.

 

[Jayem]

you can make that work.
suggest you run few more overlapping wraps of tape on either side of the spoke holes though.
i've used skinny tape on fatbike rims in the past and by employing one continuous loop that overlaps side to side to cover most of the rim will get you rolling.
if you do that you'll prevent sealant from creeping under the tape by the spoke holes for a bit longer.

Yeah, with a few passes and then riding around with a tube in it for a couple days, you should be able to take the tube out and the tape be well sealed up against the rim. I wouldn't recommend trying to use it tubeless just having put a few passes of that tape on it, you need to get it to seal down, which it will with a tube in there.

 

[scottg]

I use gorilla tape on my fat rims - two wraps overlapping in the center gets me the width I need. And yes you want to first inflate it with a tube in it, ideally riding it a bit before removing the tube but that's not really necessary. Then break just one bead, remove the tube through that side. Lay the wheel flat over a trash can or something to inflate with the broken bead side down and gravity will help seal that bead enough to pop it in place. It's a lot less messy if you have an injector for the tubeless sealant so you can inject that after both beads are set.

 

[Bumpyride]

Still going with Shrink Wrap. Probably just finished my 20+ pairs. Took off a pair of 27.5 Maxxis Minions that were on the bike for Mountain Downhill and trail riding. 6 months and the Stans was still liquid, no dried residue. Re-shrinkwrapped for the Gnarwahls and pumped them right up. No fuss no muss, no leaks even without Stans. 1 roll of shrink wrap from Home Depot does about 15 to 20 tires for $9.

 

[scottg]

Still going with Shrink Wrap. Probably just finished my 20+ pairs. Took off a pair of 27.5 Maxxis Minions that were on the bike for Mountain Downhill and trail riding. 6 months and the Stans was still liquid, no dried residue. Re-shrinkwrapped for the Gnarwahls and pumped them right up. No fuss no muss, no leaks even without Stans. 1 roll of shrink wrap from Home Depot does about 15 to 20 tires for $9.

Wow I never thought of that..... what's the technique?

 

[Sparticus]

Still going with Shrink Wrap. Probably just finished my 20+ pairs. Took off a pair of 27.5 Maxxis Minions that were on the bike for Mountain Downhill and trail riding. 6 months and the Stans was still liquid, no dried residue. Re-shrinkwrapped for the Gnarwahls and pumped them right up. No fuss no muss, no leaks even without Stans. 1 roll of shrink wrap from Home Depot does about 15 to 20 tires for $9.

Got a link?

 

[Bumpyride]

Shrink Wrap. I used to have a pictorial but they shut it down. Here's a step by step:

The Shrink Wrap you can buy at Home Depot. 1,000' x 5" is $9

Easiest way is to turn your bike upside down with the Rim Mounted.

Take about a 6" piece of packing tape and put it on the rim, then attach the shrink wrap.

Spin the rim around 6 times, keeping the shrink wrap centered with light pressure, and keep the edges of the shrink wrap from creeping down the side wall of the rim.

At the end of 6 times, again use packing tape to attach the Shrink Wrap to itself. Best to go from shoulder to shoulder.

Then take a nail or something metal, heat it up to melt a small hole to put the valve in. I usually use 3 small pieces of inner tube to create a better seal between the valve and the rim. I press down on the valve as hard as possible while tightening up the valve nut.

Carefully put the tire on the rim, making sure you don't drag the shrink wrap into the rim. If it does go down you can pull it back up.

Soap the rim "LIBERALLY" and fill it up to 18 to 25 PSI depending on what your tire says. The soapy water will bubble if you have any significant leaks. Usually all bubbles go away with enough pressure.

The nice thing about the Shrink Wrap is that it seals the entire rim, welds, spoke holes and valve hole.

I have modified all my rims to Schrader valves, and insert by Stans Racing Fluid with the valve core out using a fairly large 2ml syringe. Even with all the hairs in the Stan's Racing it all works with the Schrader Vales. To drill out a Presta hole to a Schrader hole takes a 21/64 drill bit. Deburr the hole and smooth out. You can always use a Presta Tube for emergencies in a Schrader hole.

 

[Sparticus]

Shrink Wrap. I used to have a pictorial but they shut it down. Here's a step by step:

The Shrink Wrap you can buy at Home Depot. 1,000' x 5" is $9

Easiest way is to turn your bike upside down with the Rim Mounted.

Take about a 6" piece of packing tape and put it on the rim, then attach the shrink wrap.

Spin the rim around 6 times, keeping the shrink wrap centered with light pressure, and keep the edges of the shrink wrap from creeping down the side wall of the rim.

At the end of 6 times, again use packing tape to attach the Shrink Wrap to itself. Best to go from shoulder to shoulder.

Then take a nail or something metal, heat it up to melt a small hole to put the valve in. I usually use 3 small pieces of inner tube to create a better seal between the valve and the rim. I press down on the valve as hard as possible while tightening up the valve nut.

Carefully put the tire on the rim, making sure you don't drag the shrink wrap into the rim. If it does go down you can pull it back up.

Soap the rim "LIBERALLY" and fill it up to 18 to 25 PSI depending on what your tire says. The soapy water will bubble if you have any significant leaks. Usually all bubbles go away with enough pressure.

The nice thing about the Shrink Wrap is that it seals the entire rim, welds, spoke holes and valve hole.

I have modified all my rims to Schrader valves, and insert by Stans Racing Fluid with the valve core out using a fairly large 2ml syringe. Even with all the hairs in the Stan's Racing it all works with the Schrader Vales. To drill out a Presta hole to a Schrader hole takes a 21/64 drill bit. Deburr the hole and smooth out. You can always use a Presta Tube for emergencies in a Schrader hole.

Thank you.
I'd still like at least a photo so we can see what this stuff looks like.
Sounds like you're not talking about the stuff that has to be heated up to make shrink.
Thanks again.
=sParty

 

[Jayem]

Sounds like you're not talking about the stuff that has to be heated up to make shrink.
Thanks again.
=sParty

Yeah, that's what I think of when I hear it, plus I'd think that with the heat-shrink wrap you would only have to do one pass maybe? Is anyone using heat-shrink?

 

[Bumpyride]

Pratt Retail Specialties 5 in. x 1000 ft. Stretch Wrap 5005001 - The Home Depot

Pratt Retail Specialties 5 in. x 1000 ft. Stretch Wrap keeps items secure and tightly packed. It sticks only to itself, so you can use it to protect furniture, to roll up rugs and to wrap items into groupings.

www.homedepot.com

 

[Bumpyride]

Shrink wrap is like Saran Wrap/Cling Wrap. It's better described as Stretch Wrap, like they do with pallets that have loose boxes on it.

 

[FishMan473]

In case anyone in the future wants to know: kinda worked, but not really. I never had a problem holding air, but sealant seeped through and started corroding my nipples, I had to go through and rebuild the wheel wit new nipples a little over a year later.

 

[Sparticus]

In case anyone in the future wants to know: kinda worked, but not really. I never had a problem holding air, but sealant seeped through and started corroding my nipples, I had to go through and rebuild the wheel wit new nipples a little over a year later.

Thanks for following up.
I would have been surprised to hear anything besides what you said.
Rim tape is designed to do a specific job; IME it does its job well.
Better than anything else, I expect.
=sParty

 

[brentos]

As long as your rim diameter is big enough to tightly fit the tire bead and doesn't need tape thickness to achieve that, it will work. My enve's run just a narrow tape down the center, and I've never had an issue.