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Robtre
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My chain line has to be off. I have been riding a tall gear on trails 34x16 lately on a CX/MX bike and I have recently split out 2 KMC Z610 chains. The chain splits out the side like it is pulling more on one side. Chainline cannot be off by much. Is there a way to guarantee the chain line is straight?
 

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My chain line has to be off. I have been riding a tall gear on trails 34x16 lately on a CX/MX bike and I have recently split out 2 KMC Z610 chains. The chain splits out the side like it is pulling more on one side. Chainline cannot be off by much. Is there a way to guarantee the chain line is straight?
Use a very rigid straightedge placed against the side of the chainring.

Or the discontinued Park CLG-2
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-line

I never had good results with the KMC chains. The Wippermann 108 is by far the best SS chain http://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Wip...src=DEFAULT1&gclid=CNie7vH0070CFU6RfgodzDYAOw
 

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If it only looks straight, it is straight enough to not destroy chains. The human eye is surprisingly accurate. Your problem is most likely not related to chainline.

I like Shiggy's suggestion: it's much more foolproof than taking four measurements and calculating, all of which can be messed up at any point.
 

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Robtre
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
By eyeing it, I was looking down the line of course but also looking at the spacial orientation of the teeth in the chain on both the chain ring and cog. Cant figure this out.
 

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Attack Position
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The easiest solution IMO is put the cog on the hub with no spacers, pedal the bike in the stand for bit and it will line up the cog with the chainring. Mark the location of the cog on the hub, add spacers and ride.
 

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My chain line has to be off. I have been riding a tall gear on trails 34x16 lately on a CX/MX bike and I have recently split out 2 KMC Z610 chains. The chain splits out the side like it is pulling more on one side. Chainline cannot be off by much. Is there a way to guarantee the chain line is straight?
Chains, even singlespeed ones, can flex side to side more than enough to keep from splitting a chain. Chain line is not your issue. I'd look for a chainring tooth that's bent over on itself or something of that nature, or maybe you've just hit a patch of bad luck.
 

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Yes

Yes, you can just get a long straight edge, take the chain off your front and rear sprockets, lay the straight edge flush on the front sprocket side facing away from the frame, then rotate the sprocket until the other end goes down towards your rear cog. The perfecet alignment is when the straight edge just touches flush with the outside of the cog. There's a video on youtube showing exactly how this is done.
Check: How to check the chainline on your single speed bicycle or fixie - YouTube
 

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Chain line is not your issue...
Honestly, I've ridden years before I checked my chainline by a ruler/square method. It was off by 3-4mm. In those years, never did I have chain issues due to the chainline. As DanD said, I doubt the chain line is the issue here. Think about the extreme angles on a geared bike and what the chains go through without breaking.
 

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The way wafflebeast suggested is really good, I've used it several times, but make sure you put the locking on if your using a cassette body for your angle speed. I actually prefer the eyeball method. I have run a SS for 5 of 6 years just eyeballing it and it has never failed me yet. I've also got a 3 year old KMC chain that is still going strong. My buddy uses the whipperman. You have to have an issue some place else. Most chains can flex several millimeters before they get damaged.
 
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