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I've read through the entire thread trying to decide between this and the offering. I'm going to a single bike quiver. I'll be looking at a sml being 166cm.

I'm interested in the changes to the geometry with the sd bumper removal or the possibility of long shocking or using offset bushings.

Reason is I want to build it as a mullet, running 130mm 29er fork out front. All up a height difference of about 30mm which means roughly 1.4° change to the angles. That puts the sta at about 73.5 which seems a little too slack. I'm wondering whether long shock or offset bushings might bring this back to more reasonable figures.
 

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I've read through the entire thread trying to decide between this and the offering. I'm going to a single bike quiver. I'll be looking at a sml being 166cm.

I'm interested in the changes to the geometry with the sd bumper removal or the possibility of long shocking or using offset bushings.

Reason is I want to build it as a mullet, running 130mm 29er fork out front. All up a height difference of about 30mm which means roughly 1.4° change to the angles. That puts the sta at about 73.5 which seems a little too slack. I'm wondering whether long shock or offset bushings might bring this back to more reasonable figures.
Offering makes a better mullet based on your criteria...even with the 27.5 in the rear the STA will still be better than a Calling in full 27.5 form. The challenge is that you would likely want to lower the front end to level the bike back out but then the BB gets pretty low, especially when you think about fully compressed height at 140mm in the rear. I run my offering between 29/29 and mullet, current setup is 140mm front with 2.6” tires for added clearance. The fully compressed bottom bracket height is much less of an issue if you use a shorter stroke shock at 50mm to reduce the travel to ~127mm.
If you’re looking for a beast, bumping the fork to 150 or 160mm and leaving the rear shock alone would be a riot but definitely gives up a bit on the climbs. Negative Angleset could help steepen STA but then HTA is getting pretty darn slack.
Hope this is helpful.
 

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Offering makes a better mullet based on your criteria...even with the 27.5 in the rear the STA will still be better than a Calling in full 27.5 form. The challenge is that you would likely want to lower the front end to level the bike back out but then the BB gets pretty low, especially when you think about fully compressed height at 140mm in the rear. I run my offering between 29/29 and mullet, current setup is 140mm front with 2.6” tires for added clearance. The fully compressed bottom bracket height is much less of an issue if you use a shorter stroke shock at 50mm to reduce the travel to ~127mm.
If you’re looking for a beast, bumping the fork to 150 or 160mm and leaving the rear shock alone would be a riot but definitely gives up a bit on the climbs. Negative Angleset could help steepen STA but then HTA is getting pretty darn slack.
Hope this is helpful.
Thanks for your feedback. I ended up speaking with an Evil dealer and asked Evil themselves. The way I saw it ... The Offering will be hampered due to BB height, the Calling due to STA.

Both suggested the Calling would make a better mullet.

The STA on the Calling had me second guessing this recommendation for a while but
a) STA is adjustable via saddle fore/aft
b) Some dropper posts (e13) have heads allowing additional fore/aft adjustment
c) At my seat height, STA is practically a non-issue (675mm)
d) Slackening the HTA a little more via angleset can further correct the STA
e) Longshocking the Calling will help correct the STA

Specifically, Evil suggested the Calling with a 130mm 29er short offset fork. This should raise the front ~18mm (~1* slacker) vs a stock calling running a 150mm fork making the STA ~74*.

If the mullet didn't work out, and as much as I do like the rollover of a 29er, reality is a 27.5 for me at 5'5 is much more manoeuvrable anyway.

So I now have a Calling on order with an ETA of end of month ... woot woot!!
 

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For those of you that have long shocked the Calling by removing the spacer in the Super Deluxe how has that worked out?

Any issues?

Is this easy to reverse if I don't like it?

If I recall the spacer is sandwiched between two washers. You remove one of these washers correct?

Also there is no need to mess with the IFP if modifying the Super Deluxe correct?

Thanks
 

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For those of you that have long shocked the Calling by removing the spacer in the Super Deluxe how has that worked out?

Any issues?

Is this easy to reverse if I don't like it?

If I recall the spacer is sandwiched between two washers. You remove one of these washers correct?

Also there is no need to mess with the IFP if modifying the Super Deluxe correct?

Thanks
I've done it however I have the Fox DPX2 which is quite a bit more difficult; the travel reduced is essentially a metal shim on my shock.

The RS setup is much easier to snip from what i've seen and read.

No issues at all on the setup and I rarely use all of the additional travel anyways. I'm still working on volume reducer selection as the bike is already so damn progressive.

I have a 2021 Fox X2 on order at 185x55 to try out as well.
 

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I removed the stroke reducer AND the volume reducer. Both wins. Feels more plush and with the delta link there's never a harsh bottom out.
 

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Is this easy to reverse if I don't like it?

If I recall the spacer is sandwiched between two washers. You remove one of these washers correct?
1. Easy to reverse = nope. Its really a one-way ticket.
2. Spacer sandwich = yes. Cut the grey travel reducer and ONE washer. Don't remove the O-ring!
3. Totally worth it!
4. 150/142 or 160/142 is the way to go.

I actually added the Gnar-Dog volume reducer (removed the single standard reducer these come with).
 

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I removed the travel reducer, but left the extra washer since my snips were super dull. I have had no issues other than hearing the washer in the shock when hanging my bike vertically in the garage.

I’m also looking for a 185x55 shock to replace the original super deluxe (wrench scraped the damper body when installing new bushing) and there’s not much out there right now. I can’t even find a replacement damper body.
 

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I’m also looking for a 185x55 shock to replace the original super deluxe.... and there’s not much out there right now.
Been searching on the same topic for a coil. Cost is always an issue with the Push 11-6 being at the top end. I've been looking at the DVO Jade Coil, RS SD Coil RCT, Fox DHX2.

The metric trunnion is the hardest part to match....
 

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1. Easy to reverse = nope. Its really a one-way ticket.
2. Spacer sandwich = yes. Cut the grey travel reducer and ONE washer. Don't remove the O-ring!
3. Totally worth it!
4. 150/142 or 160/142 is the way to go.

I actually added the Gnar-Dog volume reducer (removed the single standard reducer these come with).
Any particular reason for going with the gnar dog? That seems like the opposite route of going with a coil which you mention in the next post.

Which washer am I snipping?
 

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Any particular reason for going with the gnar dog? That seems like the opposite route of going with a coil which you mention in the next post.

Which washer am I snipping?
Gnar Dog: Bottomed out with the standard reducer at 30% SAG. Only happened a few times, but just the sound was horrible. For only $10, it an easy thing to experiment with, but once I put it in, didn't go back.

Coil: More curiosity and interweb surfing than actual purchase. I've tried a couple non-Evil bikes with coil and really liked the ride... You are right, of course, about the decreased progression on the coil vs air... Seems like the newer generation of springs is resolving this?

Washer: The 'sandwich' goes (from top to bottom) Washer>Grey Travel Reducer>Washer>O-ring. It doesn't matter which washer is removed. You will be left with Washer>O-ring. Per the RS site, the O-ring is 'last gasp' protection in case you bottom out.
 

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Gnar Dog: Bottomed out with the standard reducer at 30% SAG. Only happened a few times, but just the sound was horrible. For only $10, it an easy thing to experiment with, but once I put it in, didn't go back.

Coil: More curiosity and interweb surfing than actual purchase. I've tried a couple non-Evil bikes with coil and really liked the ride... You are right, of course, about the decreased progression on the coil vs air... Seems like the newer generation of springs is resolving this?

Washer: The 'sandwich' goes (from top to bottom) Washer>Grey Travel Reducer>Washer>O-ring. It doesn't matter which washer is removed. You will be left with Washer>O-ring. Per the RS site, the O-ring is 'last gasp' protection in case you bottom out.
Ha, sounds like we are trying to move in slightly different directions. I have a Wreckoning with an 11-6 and a Stumpy with Ohlins coil. I love them, but wanted a poppier, more playful bike so built up the Calling. My problem is that I actually find the Wreckoning to be much more playful and poppy than the Calling.

I feel like the Calling could also use the extra cm of travel, even though that will continue to decrease its playfulness, hence why I might go down that route.

I imagine a Calling with coil would be great and if it performs like my wreckoning does it would be killer.
 

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Ha, sounds like we are trying to move in slightly different directions. I have a Wreckoning with an 11-6 and a Stumpy with Ohlins coil. I love them, but wanted a poppier, more playful bike so built up the Calling. My problem is that I actually find the Wreckoning to be much more playful and poppy than the Calling.

I feel like the Calling could also use the extra cm of travel, even though that will continue to decrease its playfulness, hence why I might go down that route.

I imagine a Calling with coil would be great and if it performs like my wreckoning does it would be killer.
Calling with 11.6 is a fantastic setup (and what I've ridden for several seasons). I strongly suspect the difference you feel between Wreck v. Calling is mostly from shock choice, as the geometry otherwise favors Calling as the more playful bike.
 

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As mentioned I picked up a 2021 Fox Factory DHX2 for my calling in 185x55 (long stroked) with an EXT spring (SLS orange didnt go with my build). Firstly the 2021 DHX2 is remarkably better than the old DHX2; easier to setup out of the box and the clicks all make a difference. The bottom out bumper is no longer a joke.

All I can say is wow... The rear wheel traction is unreal, the bike is still poppy and playful, but the way the bike tracks is a definite upgrade. I'm still working on nailing down setup, but that will have to wait for spring or a trip to squamish as we are in full out winter here
 

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How does the Following MB compare with the Calling? I'm going to setup my Following MB in the 27.5+. Much of a muchness in comparison to a Calling?
 

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What have you all paid for your LBS to replace the Delta pivot bearings (not including parts...the bearing set is about $60)

I just did a thorough clean and re-grease on the pivot bearings on my 2017 Calling... I do this once a year (might have modify that schedule!) and bearing rotation about two times a year. I you haven't rotated your bearings, now is the time as pivots have limited degrees of rotation (ie not 360 degrees like a bottom bracket), and will wear in the limited range of rotation provided by the pivot (probably less than 180 degrees in most cases).

I did find a couple of 'crunchy' units that did not improve much after re-greasing and will need to be replaced sooner than later.

Wondering about the price of the RWC tools (or other brand) vs. LBS? . I do all the other maintenance on my bikes, but have not ventured into the bearing replacement world...

DELTA Link Bearing Tools

This one looks horrible (rust? and some seriously degraded grease!), but actually cleaned up just fine. Bad photo coloring, but you get the idea.
1915977
 

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What have you all paid for your LBS to replace the Delta pivot bearings (not including parts...the bearing set is about $60)

I just did a thorough clean and re-grease on the pivot bearings on my 2017 Calling... I do this once a year (might have modify that schedule!) and bearing rotation about two times a year. I you haven't rotated your bearings, now is the time as pivots have limited degrees of rotation (ie not 360 degrees like a bottom bracket), and will wear in the limited range of rotation provided by the pivot (probably less than 180 degrees in most cases).

I did find a couple of 'crunchy' units that did not improve much after re-greasing and will need to be replaced sooner than later.

Wondering about the price of the RWC tools (or other brand) vs. LBS? . I do all the other maintenance on my bikes, but have not ventured into the bearing replacement world...

DELTA Link Bearing Tools

This one looks horrible (rust? and some seriously degraded grease!), but actually cleaned up just fine. Bad photo coloring, but you get the idea.
View attachment 1915977
If you plan to do your own maintenance in the long term then you should absolutely get comfortable with the procedure, it’s really not that difficult. The professional tools are nice but you can easily rig up your own presses with appropriately sized sockets, washers, nuts, bolts, and all-thread. I have and use both and for some bearings it’s actually easier to use the homemade versions.

A couple tips if you decide to tackle it:
  • put the bearings in the freezer before hand, they will actually shrink just a little bit
  • make sure they are lightly but thoroughly lubed, as well as the housings
  • go slow, getting everything started straight is the most important, once they start going in correctly you’ll know and then can pull them in fairly quickly
  • good luck!
 

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Hello.
I just posted in the Evil owners forum at Pinkbike, then noticed it might belong here.

For those who are still interested in new builds of old bikes, here's my size large Calling with -1.5 Works Components headset (around 65 head angle in low, not x-low position), 150mm Lyrik and tuned Super Deluxe MegNeg with 55mm stroke for 143mm rear travel. Super nimble (also capable) play bike compared to my Orbea Rallon 5 29.

Cheers, Lars

1918172
 
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