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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seeing all these freaking enduro bikes in the 28-29# marks have made me hate my bike (not really, but money is burning a hole in my pocket).

My current setup as follows:

2012 (V2) El Guapo Medium (roughly 6.8-7.0# frame weight).
Lyrik U-turn coil 160mm (heavy pig)
Hope Pro 2 EVO laced to Stan's Flows (non-EX) - tubeless
Schwalbe 2.4 Fat Albert Front
Specialized Ground Control 2bliss 2.3 Rear
MRP Micro chainguide (26-32t)
Gravity Dropper Turbo LP 4in drop post
Cane Creek 40 headset (ZS44 top, EC49 bottom)
Easton Haven Carbon 711 bars
WTB grips - thin
X9 rear shifter
X9 type 2 RD
X9 crankset with NSB 30t spiderless chainring
KMC SL 10speed chain
SRAM 1070 cassette
SLX brakes w/ 7in XT rotor rear, 8in XT rotor front
Nukeproof Electron Pedals (350ish grams)
Thomson seatpost clamp
Race Face Atlas 65mm stem

Weight: 31.2# on my Park scale.

Now...I ride aggressively in NC (1-2 trips to Pisgah National Forest during the nice month). Local trails are mostly just rooty, Pisgah is rocky and rooty. Weight = 190 with my camelbak on. I don't want to jeopardize "durability." I ride it hard and put it away wet.

Now, I know my next realistic upgrade will be the fork. It is 5.4# when I weighed it. A Manitou Mattoc or RS Pike is in the cards. That will get me right around the upper 29s to 30# mark.

I am thinking I can save a few grams on my tires, but I am also debating if it is worth it when I am trying to rip it downhill at Pisgah. So far I have answered "no."

So here I am, asking for advice. Is anything on this bike besides the fork worth dropping cash on to try to hit the 29# mark? It seems to look increasingly impossible without dropping A LOT of money and sacrificing some of the "set it and forget it" durability aspect of this bike.

Thoughts?
 

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I see nothing on that build that you could lose a worthwhile amount of weight on without spending silly money or losing strength.

Changing the coil for an air spring fork is about it, even the tyres you have are at the light end of 'real' mountain bike tyres.

Most 150mm bikes hover around the 30lb mark, it's kind of the limit where lightness and strength meet, I know of very few bikes that (genuinely) weigh less than that stock and maintain a good ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I see nothing on that build that you could lose a worthwhile amount of weight on without spending silly money or losing strength.

Changing the coil for an air spring fork is about it, even the tyres you have are at the light end of 'real' mountain bike tyres.

Most 150mm bikes hover around the 30lb mark, it's kind of the limit where lightness and strength meet, I know of very few bikes that (genuinely) weigh less than that stock and maintain a good ride.
Yea...as I was typing this out and checking weights I was getting closer and closer to your exact opinion. I am thinking the fork will be all the money I will dump into this beast, and call it quits. Too bad that is A LOT of money to drop, but the 2009 fork has lived a long and well loved life.
 

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Sweet ride!

Don't forget most of the "enduro bike reviews" post weights without pedals. And lots of companies spec crappy tires or no dropper post so they can post lighter weights. 30# is about as good as it gets.

However I think there are three areas where you can save weight AND increase the bikes capability.. not cheap but here's where I'd spend that burning money first:
  1. Fork. The Pike really is fantastic. Performance might not be much better than your Lyrik but it will be pounds lighter and plenty stiff.
  2. Carbon rims. Nominal weight savings but you'll be stoked with the stiffness. By all accounts the chinese rims are improving.
  3. Carbon bars. Or any bars. Only because that bike is crippled with anything less than 740mm width.
I would be kind of curious about doing a 140-150mm travel 27.5" fork and front wheel on that bike. Might keep the geometry intact but give you the roll-over advantages of a bigger wheel up front, where it matters.
 

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lyric 160mm a2c = 545
new 27.5 150mm pike a2c=542mm + 1/2"-3/4" =12-17mm increase from axle to ground of the 27.5 wheel compared to 26
new crown to ground height approximatley 9-14mm increase. get a 140 pike and your golden. almost identical geo.
 

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on my 3rd wind...
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I say it's worth try

I have EG V3 that I managed to get it down to 29.4 lbs by swapping to Pike, Easton Haven Carbon wheel, and 750gram tires. It used to weigh 32lbs before parts swap. After these upgrade how much faster bike climbed, how less tired I got on long rides, and how much more flickable bike got on the trail was immediately apparent. If I really wanted to I could have saved another 1 lbs by using lighter saddle, carbon bar, KS Lev, and XT crankset but for a little weight gain (loss) it wasnt worth the effort. I was damn happy with ~29lbs 6" travel bike.
 

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XX1 if you're ready to replace your X9 stuff will save about 1lb and I've seen the entire group go for $800 on eBay shipped. That coupled with the Pike and carbon hoops and you've got one mean and light E-ride. Can you say 28? ;)

I've done everything on my E29 short of a carbon frame and I'm 30lb 2oz. I did choose a CCDBA-CS and Reverb Stealth dropper. That right there is about 1.5lbs+ from no dropper and the stock Fox CTD. The performance gain is worth it for the extra heft.

I too would love to know I'm sub 30lbs, but then I have to remember that I typically leave the equivalent of $1000 in light parts in the t-bowl every morning! If I drop an extra 10lbs of blub even better!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have EG V3 that I managed to get it down to 29.4 lbs by swapping to Pike, Easton Haven Carbon wheel, and 750gram tires. It used to weigh 32lbs before parts swap. After these upgrade how much faster bike climbed, how less tired I got on long rides, and how much more flickable bike got on the trail was immediately apparent. If I really wanted to I could have saved another 1 lbs by using lighter saddle, carbon bar, KS Lev, and XT crankset but for a little weight gain (loss) it wasnt worth the effort. I was damn happy with ~29lbs 6" travel bike.
nice bike dude!

I am hoping to get into that same range!

1) My 711mm bars are about as wide as I feel comfortable running. I have some of the shortest arms on the planet. Literally, my nick-name is "Alligator Arms."

2) Sounds like a universal win on the fork. That will be my next upgrade. Waiting on a few more reviews of the Manitou Mattoc to come out before deciding between the Pike and the Mattoc. I am leaning towards the Mattoc because it comes in the box with all the parts to go from 26in to 27.5in. So this leaves the option to go to 27.5 up front open if I choose to go that route.

3) After reading the Knock-Off carbon rim thread and seeing plenty-o-pictures of destruction, I am holding on the carbon rim upgrade. I may re-build my front wheel with a carbon rim as a "tester" one of these days. Keeping this option open, but my wheelset isn't that old and I am not ready to give up the goose just yet.

Thanks for all of the tips! Keep em coming. I am glad most of my choices thus far have made semi-sense.
 

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on my 3rd wind...
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2) Sounds like a universal win on the fork. That will be my next upgrade. Waiting on a few more reviews of the Manitou Mattoc to come out before deciding between the Pike and the Mattoc. I am leaning towards the Mattoc because it comes in the box with all the parts to go from 26in to 27.5in. So this leaves the option to go to 27.5 up front open if I choose to go that route.
FYI, Pike fork on the picture is 27.5" version with 160mm travel.
 

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Off the back...
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Definitely go with the fork upgrade. Lyric 160 a2c is 545mm, 650x160 Pike is 552mm [an increase of 7mm], combined with a 13mm raise for the wheel size change gives around 1 degree slacker head angle. As a former EG owner, I can say that the handling totally benefits from the slacker front end.
 
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Anyone know the rear upper & lower stay measurements? i'm still in a search for a full squish mass produced frameset that has 72mm of clearance and will accept the new DW 2.75.....c-mon tell me this is it please
 
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