[CragRat]

Had the bike for a month now, it has always had a ticking/crunching sound when pedaling hard.I thought, oh its the BB ill sort that later.
I've stripped the bb greased all parts,cable housing,seat post,chainring bolts all the usual culprits.
The ticking seems to go up the down tube, the worring part is if i push hard on the down tube i can get in to tick/crunch.
Also after compressing the suspension then pressing the frame it ticks.
HELP!!!

 

[woody74]

I had a very similar noise on my Burner and also at one point thought the frame could be cracked. Turned out to be the horst link. Try undoing them and then tightening the bolts up and putting a bit of locktight on them. Sorted my Burner out completely.

 

[sirbikesalot]

Two places where I constantly have problems - the seat rails/seatpost interface, and the horst link. The only way to stop the creaking in the seat is to remove the seat and grease the rails. For the pivot creak I have to undo the horst links, grease the bushings, and tighten the bolts firmly. Then you have repeat this process every couple of months when the creaking starts again.

Had the bike for a month now, it has always had a ticking/crunching sound when pedaling hard.I thought, oh its the BB ill sort that later.
I've stripped the bb greased all parts,cable housing,seat post,chainring bolts all the usual culprits.
The ticking seems to go up the down tube, the worring part is if i push hard on the down tube i can get in to tick/crunch.
Also after compressing the suspension then pressing the frame it ticks.
HELP!!!

 

[Blue Shorts]

Had the bike for a month now, it has always had a ticking/crunching sound when pedaling hard.I thought, oh its the BB ill sort that later.
I've stripped the bb greased all parts,cable housing,seat post,chainring bolts all the usual culprits.
The ticking seems to go up the down tube, the worring part is if i push hard on the down tube i can get in to tick/crunch.
Also after compressing the suspension then pressing the frame it ticks.
HELP!!!

Things to consider. A friend of mine has an RP3 that makes a similar sound. Fox can fix that, I believe (if that's your problem). Also, check to see if a cable hits / rubs something when the suspension si compressed.

 

[Larsey]

Check the cage bolts on the downtube. They can make that very sound your talking about. Just ask Lambone.

 

[CragRat]

I have done all the above apart from the horst link,i dont understand how that could make a sound in the down tube on the front end, but i will try.
The fact that i can make the down tube tick by pushing it is strange.
Thanks for the replies.I do hope i find the problem.

 

[SIGMA]

stethoscope

I have done all the above apart from the horst link,i dont understand how that could make a sound in the down tube on the front end, but i will try.
The fact that i can make the down tube tick by pushing it is strange.
Thanks for the replies.I do hope i find the problem.

I have a auto mechanics stethoscope.I had a popping pinging sound on a giant nrs coming from the bottom bracket,main pivot area.I was sure this was where it was coming from until I traced it to the rear dropout and found a hairline crack .Sometime a noise a frame is coming from one part yet amplified through another. The stethoscope isolates this. they are about $ 20.

 

[turnerbikes]

click, crunch

Make sure you do not have metal cable ends on the housing from front end to seat stay. Big cruncher, when the suspension moves a bit the metal end caps moves in the metal cable stops and with the system under tension it will make noise. If not now, later.
Pull the deraileur hanger off and put some more grease between it and the frame, grease the screws and snug them up. They do not need to be super tight as the axle force will hold it in place, but snug screws a good thing. I assume that you have checked the frame carefully for cracks?

DT

 

[Lambone]

Check the cage bolts on the downtube. They can make that very sound your talking about. Just ask Lambone.

Yes do tighten up those cage bolts before you put any more work into it...

Out of the box mine were loose and I thought there was a small rodent living inside my frame...

 

[CragRat]

Make sure you do not have metal cable ends on the housing from front end to seat stay. Big cruncher, when the suspension moves a bit the metal end caps moves in the metal cable stops and with the system under tension it will make noise. If not now, later.
Pull the deraileur hanger off and put some more grease between it and the frame, grease the screws and snug them up. They do not need to be super tight as the axle force will hold it in place, but snug screws a good thing. I assume that you have checked the frame carefully for cracks?

DT

I have had a look for cracks at the welds and can't see any, could there be a crack inside the tubes.
I have greased the cable stops ill try the der hanger tho.
The other thing that has just sprung to mind are the headset cups,i have a King headset but their website says it does not recommend for nor against greaseing them.
Is it a real possibility my frame could be cracked already,i do hope not, as i love the bike.

 

[zkampyman]

Consider seeing a mechanic

I have never taken my bike to a good mechanic where that person was not able to do what I would do in a faster more efficient manner. Assuming that a mechanic and I are of equal skill, the mechanic will always be faster due to practice.

Cheers

K

 

[tscheezy]

Loosen the shock mount bolts and compress the suspension. Sometimes the reducer eyelets bind and then pop when they go through rotation.

Always greas headset cups for insertion. Any metal on metal contact should be greased, imo. You can probably eliminate the headset from suspicion by locking the front brake and rocking the bike back and forth really hard. Any creaks up front will speak up.

Dirt under the front der clamp can also make noise. Lightly lube under the clamp band where it touches the seat tube (I have even put a piece of black tape between the der and seat tube to shut this area up on my old hardtail).

Basically it can be ANY metal-on-metal contact point, and there are a LOT of these on a bike.

 

[turnerbikes]

Unlikely

Unless you are riding your Flux like Superstock on the Six Pack videos at turnerbikes.com I doubt that frame will crack for many years. As Tscheezy pointed out there are lots of metal to metal contacts on a bike. In fact a bicycle is nothing but a whole lot of parts bolted together.
The most incredibly quiet bike I ever rode was an XC assembled by a ex pro rally car mechanic in Northern Italy. He had assembled it with his favorite brand of anti seize on every single metal connection. anti seize on every single metal connection. Every one, and bolts too. Silence was what greeted me on the climb behind Pepi's shop. I think my bike is adequetly quiet, but his was silent. What a difference a little well placed lube makes for reducing lifes squeeky situations.

DT

 

[CragRat]

Well i certainly aint riding like that i think, i id be the one broken if i tried. I have spoken to the mechanic where i bought the frame, he said he would be amazed if it was a crack and that i would get a new one if it was.
The sound is best described as if some one has thrown a couple of small ball bearings at the down tube,ill keep tyring to find the bloody thing tho.
My mate is a Rally driver also, driving a Mitsubushi Evo 6 so i will try DT's advice on that.
Thanks again To DT and all, i doubt Mr Specialized or Mr Trek would have replied.
Oh by the way, its best bike i've ever had the pleasure to sling my leg over..

 

[Wiggum]

had similar problem

Do you really notice it when you're really torquing the bars, pounding the pedals, and basically riding hard? Simply tightening the bolts on handlebars and stem fixed it for me. Not surprised if the bolts on your new bike need tightening.

Hope this helps. I should be getting my Flux within a couple weeks!

Wiggum

 

[Blue Shorts]

Well i certainly aint riding like that i think, i id be the one broken if i tried. I have spoken to the mechanic where i bought the frame, he said he would be amazed if it was a crack and that i would get a new one if it was.
The sound is best described as if some one has thrown a couple of small ball bearings at the down tube,ill keep tyring to find the bloody thing tho.
My mate is a Rally driver also, driving a Mitsubushi Evo 6 so i will try DT's advice on that.
Thanks again To DT and all, i doubt Mr Specialized or Mr Trek would have replied.
Oh by the way, its best bike i've ever had the pleasure to sling my leg over..

Make sure you post back when you find out what's causing the noise....and you eventually will find out, I'm sure.

Good luck!

 

[DGC]

some thoughts.....

Well i certainly aint riding like that i think, i id be the one broken if i tried. I have spoken to the mechanic where i bought the frame, he said he would be amazed if it was a crack and that i would get a new one if it was.
The sound is best described as if some one has thrown a couple of small ball bearings at the down tube,ill keep tyring to find the bloody thing tho.
My mate is a Rally driver also, driving a Mitsubushi Evo 6 so i will try DT's advice on that.
Thanks again To DT and all, i doubt Mr Specialized or Mr Trek would have replied.
Oh by the way, its best bike i've ever had the pleasure to sling my leg over..

Remember as said already by Tscheezy, when you have metal to metal all over the bike, noise is a lot more likely to happen than most think. When you have aluminum frames it amplifies noises from parts elsewhere on the bike and can easily fake you out to where it really is coming from, it will echo. DT brings up a good one, the metal housing ferrules, I have found that particular one on a few different bikes before being the culprit so I use plastic ferrules where possible and almost everywhere, also....the quick release on the wheels. Even on my own wheels with a King rear hub. Not a loose QR but not a totally snug tension either and a little torque sent noise through the entire frame. Some forks from all the companies namely Marzocchi, Fox, Manitou, Rock Shox have not always had the best of tollerance or locktite/lube at the crown, steerer, stancion location......hence creaky forks. Crowns are another point of metal on metal. Headset spacers, etc....I have a Fox on my bike right now doing that exact thing. Quite a noisy creaking crown.
To re-iterate what DT said about housing ferrules, check out the picture on my own bike, 1 set of metal housing ferrules (rear deraileur) and 1 set of plastic (front deraileur). To test out and see how long it takes on mine to become noisy. With one set vs. entire bike metal ferrules, I can more pinpoint where it will come from. You need to go through a process of elimination on your parts first, yes its a pain and time consuming but it could point to something dangerously loose or not lubed.
With everyones' comments here, you should be able to find this noise, hopefully I've helped you a bit.

 

[CragRat]

Spent last night lubeing and greaseing everywhere mentioned.The other way i can create the noise is bouncing the suspension removing the seat to eliminate the post/seat then if i put one hand on the seat tube above the top tube and the other on the wheel and stretch the frame out it pings up the down tube.But oddly if i do the same with my hand under the top tube and on the seat tube no noise.Also after bouncing on the suspension then pressing down on the down tube"PING".
And still if i pedal hard.
I have locked the front brake and really twisted and rocked the forks around and no creaks or ticks from up front.
It really seems to happen when the frame is flexed.
Could the mitre's be ticking,seems along shot.I see on the spec board some have had FSR's ticking which spec have replaced as it was found to be the frames.
I do hope not.
Cheers.
Sure we will get there in the end.

 

[squish]

hmm

Not sure if this one has been mentioned before, but have you checked all of your pivots?? A pivot that is dry, or loose could potentially make a sound like you have been describing while the suspension is cycling.

The torque ratings are...

All main pivots (large T40 torx bolts)=17 ft.lbs
Horts pivots=3.3 ft.lbs
Shock mounting bolts=4.2 ft.lbs

happy trails...

squish

 

[Bikezilla]

And if the pivot is making the noise it would be prudent to take it apart and inspect the shaft and bushing for wear and play. If it looks good, regrease reassemble, and retorque it.

Other things to try in the search: Unhook the cables from the cable stops to ensure the ferrules and housings aren't making noise. Take the rear wheel off and see if the bike still makes noise when pulling the front and rear sections in opposite directions. (I've had odd noises come from a tight but not snug enough rear skewer). If you haven't already tried it remove the top shock mount and see if the noise occurs when working the suspension. Do it w/o the rear wheel and cables. And of course if you haven't already make sure all the pivots are full of grease. You may want to dissassemble the HL pivots by hand as they are difficult to grease via the zerks.

G'Luck!