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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of getting a custom mtb frame done and have a question to anyone who has experience in having or have done internally routed shifter cables as I am toying with this idea. Besides having a cleaner look (IMHO), do they generally work well? I've seen the old Klein bikes with the inner plastic cable guides that seem to work fine from what I understand and other's with some sort of built internal cable guides. I've heard that some do not shift as well but others do. Any thoughts on this or how it should be done properly? Or not at all...Thanks in advance.
 

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What did the builder you are working with say about the internal cables and how he does them? Any feedback from him?

I have had good luck with all the bikes I have internal routing on, some are a real hassle to change cables and stuff - but they have all shifted and worked fine...
 

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I ride a Klein hardtail with internally routed cables, and I have to say, I really, really hate it. Not only is it a HUGE pain to work on compared to any other bike, the cables seem to "stick" a lot more than on my other bikes, even those with full housing. That is, when I release tension on the cables, they don't get pulled taut consistently or quickly, so shifting really suffers (particularly rear shifting). I really don't see that the "bling" factor is worth the extra PITA.
 

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Belltown Brazer
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For internals, I use 0.25" stainless tubing so that the housing and all gets routed through the frame. Works great, and no difference in shifting performance.

B
 

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Old school BMXer
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MDEnvEngr said:
For internals, I use 0.25" stainless tubing so that the housing and all gets routed through the frame. Works great, and no difference in shifting performance.

B
All of the 1/4" stainless tubing I've found is fairly heavy. I've been using 1/4" brass tubing, which seems to be a lot lighter than the SS I've found.
 

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Nice video with all the pictures!!! Couple of quick questions on the process. I am probably going to try this on an upcoming build... should be fun!

When you determine the entry and exit holes in the tubes, how do you position them in relation to the butts in the tube? Do you put the hole in the thick part of the tube, the thin part, in the transition, or does it matter?

Also, it appears that you are using brass tubing - and brass to braze it in place. Are there any issues with the brass tube melting or becoming deformed (or you may be using silver, hard to tell from the pictures)

Rody - why are your bikes so RAD??? :)
 

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dbohemian said:
There is absolutely no advantages to running internal cables on an MTB. Save it for the fluffy stuff (road bikes).:thumbsup:
C'mon Dave, you know that there are mountain bikers who are princesses who like all the pretty stuff too :D

rody
 

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tamen00 said:
When you determine the entry and exit holes in the tubes, how do you position them in relation to the butts in the tube? Do you put the hole in the thick part of the tube, the thin part, in the transition, or does it matter?
I always insure that the tubing enters and exits well within the thick butt portion of the tubing, and I try to avoid the vertical and horizontal axis...think placement at 4:30 and 7:30 on the virtual clock face.

Thanks for the complement, it's actually my customers who are so RAD, the bikes are just a reflection of them :thumbsup:

cheers,

rody
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks all for the feedback. Definitely something to consider especially the full housing option if that's going to alleviate any issues with shifting.:thumbsup:
 
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