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Discussion Starter #1
Evil owners,

Have any of you had issues with the internal dropper seat tube not being in a great orientation? Mine currently exits closer to the front of the bike and is pointed right at the kink in the lower portion of the top tube. Just wondering if this is how all of them come or if mine is defective. I have tried pushing a cable housing through and it just gets stuck when it pops out. I can probably fish it up but I’m concerned that may be putting a lot of stress on the tube or cause extra cable drag. IMG_1065.jpg IMG_1064.jpg IMG_1063.jpg


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I see what you're saying. What is it made out of? Flexible at all? If it's not flexible I would tape a hacksaw blade to a dowel and cut a bit off. Much easier than the hassle of sending it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I see what you're saying. What is it made out of? Flexible at all? If it's not flexible I would tape a hacksaw blade to a dowel and cut a bit off. Much easier than the hassle of sending it back.
I believe it is carbon. I tried to trim back the excess tape that hangs off the end of the tube with a box cutter taped to a cloths hangar. Not very easy...


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In the wreckoning thread there’s a couple posts about someone “modding” their frame for deeper post insertion. That guy used a long punch down the seat tube to break away the end of that dropper cable tube. It worked for him, but I don’t think anyone else tried it. I don’t think you should use a punch, but definitely think you should remove as much as possible. Just go slow. I’d use a fine toothed hack saw or a narrow file.
 

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that tube is flexible and it's just laying toward the side of the seat tube. Once you get the dropper housing cable fished through there it will be pointed up toward the dropper correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
that tube is flexible and it's just laying toward the side of the seat tube. Once you get the dropper housing cable fished through there it will be pointed up toward the dropper correctly.
I’m curious if it is only supported at the entrance near the head tube or if it is encased in carbon until it starts making its way past the bottom bracket and up the seat tube.


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I used a punch only because it was long enough and fit inside the tube to allow me to loosen the apoxy that holds it in. It came out in one piece. This allowed me to get my 170 Reverb dropper to the correct height without have the line all kinked. No hammers were used during the process:) Also once it was removed it was still easy to route the dropper line.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I used a punch only because it was long enough and fit inside the tube to allow me to loosen the apoxy that holds it in. It came out in one piece. This allowed me to get my 170 Reverb dropper to the correct height without have the line all kinked. No hammers were used during the process:) Also once it was removed it was still easy to route the dropper line.
Any pictures of the tube? I don’t think I will do it, but I’m curious as to what it looks like.


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looks like a clear tube! lol yeah not sure what evil was thinking when they designed that seat tube junction. Gonna look at mine and see if I can yank it out as my 9point 8 needs to go lower, thanks!
 

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I've got a following mb, the tube on mine was to long and was stopping the dropper from going down to where i needed it to be set at. The tube is just a plastic material, mine was positioned correct just to long. All i did was take a 9/16" x 16" drill bit in my cordless and slowly drilled it away. Took all of 2 minutes to do
 

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I just fished an empty cable housing through and stirred around a long screwdriver around till I could push more cable in. Don’t need to be a rocket scientist... lol
 

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I used a borescope to look at the guide tube in my Offering. It appears to be made of carbon wrapped in tape, runs the whole length of the down tube to the head tube where the cable enters and is zip-tied in two places in the down tube.
 

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on my Following MB the long end of the internal guide hose broke off when I removed the seat post so I could get a good look at it. It is made of a fibreglass type material - smooth and hard but quite brittle. It works better now it's shorter!
 

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I thought I'd update this thread after talking to Evil. They actually have a pdf of their procedure for shortening the tube. They recommend using a power hand drill with a 15/64" bit on a 12" bit extension.

Insert drill bit into guide tube, activate drill, and push into the hose. You'll feel a catch and hear the guide tube break off. Remove drill from seat tube and pull broken off piece of tube from drill bit.

I know it's not really any new information. Just thought it'd assuage any fears anyone had knowing that evil is aware of the issue and have an official fix. They also said they consider this a warranty issue, so if anyone isn't comfortable doing it themselves, they can send their frame to evil to have it fixed.

btw a long wooden yardstick is a great way to fish up your cable too
 
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