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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got these prototype hub conversions for my Sandman Kalahari expedition bike: "tweaked" Shimano XT hubs, a 165mm rear and a 135mm front hub. The conversion consists of inserts between the spoke flanges, longer axles and longer QR's.
They're very nicely made, not all too light but the conical bearings are such a plus in every far-away-from-bike-shop situation that I just don't care.

Two versions of the rear hub conversion have been made, one with an inner insert, the other with an outer sleeve.

My front & rear "inner sleeve" prototypes will be paired to 100mm rims and will go in a steel frame with rigid forks. A handful of these hubs have been made and distributed to testers. If they hold up to various sorts of abuse Sandman might offer a do-it-yourself conversion kit as a cheap solution to 165mm hubs in the future.



 

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is buachail foighneach me
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They're just pressure fit on there? Wonder if they'll twist on the insert with the opposing forces of the drivetrain and disk brake.
 

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Single Speed Junkie
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Looks like you did some nice machining there.

I would think that a pressure fit would slip after time. If they are bonded it would hold up a bit better. From the pics I can't tell, but they appear to be well done. Thanks for sharing.
 

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That Unicycle Guy
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Cool

Reminds me of the extra wide unicycle hubs that Tom Miller used to make out of the Suzue hubs that came on the early 36" unicycles.


Would it be better to move the non-drive side flange over just enough to get a symmetrical build and then add spacers to the frame? I mean you don't really need uber wide flange spacing, just chain clearance right?

EDIT: I guess my idea would mess up the disk position, could work on the front though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didn't do the machining, I'm just going to try to break them: with a dry weight of 120 kg and a pretty agressive riding style I've got a fighting chance :D. I'm going to put 200mm discs on those hubs, both front and rear.

From what I've understood the hub spacers are press fitted and bonded at the same time. Fit and finish is perfect.
I'm told the reason the rear hub is not split in the centre is that the inside of the hub is better suited for a spacer (read: not conical) on that spot.
But I don't think that the connection integrity between the two parts of the hub will be a problem. On some high end hubs the "spacer" between the two spoke flanges is plastic or carbon. The disk brake will try to twist things but if and how much it can twist in regards to the other flange depends on the spokes.

It's a pretty stress free zone in my opinion. I still recall the absolute horror I experienced when my LBS drilled a few holes smack in the middle of my brand new Shimano DX hubs (anyone remember those, that's 20 years ago) to create a grease port. Never had a problem with those (still have them). Never had to take those bearings apart either, that LBS was a visionary!

Anyway, I promise to do my utmost best to break them, bets are on :thumbsup:. I bet they'll hold.
 

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I did a similar conversion on a set of WTB Laserlites to fit my Fatback. I machined flanges onto a thick walled aluminum tube that is bonded into the split hubshell. It looks very much like the XT's in the picture. My hubs weigh less than 470 gms for the pair. I weigh 160lbs. I've ridden them all winter, say 1000 miles with no issues so far. 180 mm rotor front 160 rear. I hear Caminoloco relative to cup and cone bearings, I've got a pair of XTR hubs that will have surgery this summer so I can build up a set of 100mm rims.
 

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is buachail foighneach me
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sryanak said:
I did a similar conversion on a set of WTB Laserlites to fit my Fatback. I machined flanges onto a thick walled aluminum tube that is bonded into the split hubshell. It looks very much like the XT's in the picture. My hubs weigh less than 470 gms for the pair. I weigh 160lbs. I've ridden them all winter, say 1000 miles with no issues so far. 180 mm rotor front 160 rear. I hear Caminoloco relative to cup and cone bearings, I've got a pair of XTR hubs that will have surgery this summer so I can build up a set of 100mm rims.
How can you not follow that up with photos? :rolleyes:
 

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I was afraid someone would want pictures. I'm upload challanged but I'll give it a try.
I used the same diameter tubing for both hubs. It was a perfect match for the front hub, slightly small for the rear hub, hence the lip you can see on the rear. For the axles I bought a spare pair from WTB. They have very thick walls so you could turn down one end, of the extension, and drill the end of the extended piece out so the turned down end of the extension fit inside and presto a longer axle. I can't take pictures since it's inside.
 

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If you were to manufacture them for distribution. How much would you charge for a rear 36 hole 6 bolt rear hub? Either WTB or XT.
 

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Given the price of a set of WTB hubs I suspect buying ready-made from Speedway would be cheaper. I will try to take some pictures next time I go through the process though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No, I haven't even spoked them into wheels yet (pretty busy at work now). I'll try to figure out the spoke length next week and order some, I'm going to try to spoke the wheels myself - if you see a mushroom cloud at the horizon I botched it ;) !
 

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Wald makes a 175 (I think) 10mm quick release axle that would probably work for the rear on an XT hub. I'm still looking for a 9mm quick release that will work with the front. I explained above what I did for the WTB, Hayes, and Rotaz hubs I've modified. I've refined it a bit but still buy a spare axle from WTB and sleeve to the existing one with highstrength epoxy.
 
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