[Ray Lee]

Just got me a shinny new Primer and noticed the cable routing from right hand rear shifter levers enters the frame on the same right side vs crossing over the the left side of the frame. Same for the drooper cable but leaves the lever on the left and enters frame on the left side....seems like this is creating more kink in the shifter and dropper cable than crossing over from right to left and left to right. Also I feel the shifter cable is maybe too long and causing another small kink as it leaves the chain stay on its way to rear mech?

I am going to shorten them but any reason not to swap them so they enter opposite sides of the frame? The only thing I can think of is to keep the cable from rubbing the HT of the frame maybe?

This is my first Eagle, The bike shifts well enough just takes more thumb effort to move into easier gears than my Shimano XT 11-42 does. Issue is really from the big 50t cog it usually will not drop back down the cassette without a tap when its in the stand, when Im ridding it seems to work I think because the travel movement or the bumps on the road help it drop down. Seems like a symptom of kinked or old dirty cables but wanted to ask before pulling cables and housing.

lastly what are the red sticker for ? LOL

 

[Nels]

Actually the stickers are clear, red backing material. I put mine on the seat stays where the tire passes through to minimize scratches from debris stuck to the tire.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[FactoryMatt]

i wouldn't split the right hand cables like that going into the head tube.

i ran them on same side with no cross over. worked well.

if cable rattle bothers you, don't forget to get those foam churro tubes to go over cables inside the downtube.

it's an issue on the intense bikes.

https://www.cambriabike.com/product...MI0cGosp624wIVB7XACh1WygxJEAQYAiABEgL4sfD_BwE

 

[Ray Lee]

thanks

Thank you both, feel kinda stupid about the "red" stickers now LOL

Pictures in my original post are how the cables were set up from Intense, spit going into different sides of the frame. Seemed odd but wanted to ask just in case Intense had a reason for doing it. Like I said it shifts pretty good, not as well as I think it should going down the cassette from 50t to 42t cogs... Really hope its the odd cable routing and not the hanger.

Thanks for the tip on the cable noise, I do have clanking... haven't ridden it other than around the block and up and down some stairs, was thinking it was chain slap I was hearing.

Going to flip the cables like this image of my old bike, probably heat shrink the rear brake and shifter from bar to frame plus foam/pad them in the frame at the same time. If I had an extra $2 grand laying around maybe I would go with the new wireless SRAM option and not bother with routing cables through the frame The geo and fit are pretty much exactly what I wanted in a "do to all" bike, can't wait to test it out on the woods.

 

[Tickle]

I haven't seen anyone else comment on this but on my Primer the rear shift housing wanted to migrate into the main frame under the BB so there wasn't enough slack down there, and it would ghost shift during compression sometimes. I ended up replacing housing and I put a ziptie on the housing where it exits the frame under the BB and that kept things in place.

The old piece had a good kink where it enters the chainstay too, pretty sure there's some friction right there bet it would shift smoother if the housing just ran along the top of the chainstay

You can get the wireless der/shifter combo for a grand I think, still too rich for my blood but once that price comes down I will probably try it don't like the internal routing, only gripe tho

 

[erb16]

I purchased a Primer NM frame and routed the cables around the front of the headtube when I built it. No problems, but I have only had 3 short rides so far.

 

[Ray Lee]

Thanks, Intense installed a spacer and a zip tie tucked underneath to stop that from happening, Had a Specialized with similar under the BB routing and have seen pictures of deep grooves from having the cable loop short on those bikes... will be sure to check that every few rides.

Wireless seems pretty cool, and I would rather not have to deal with cables.. its not even the high buy in cost, its worrying about if/when I damage the rear mech. I could see getting for my gravel bike first just because it doesn't take the abuse my mountain bikes do. Im sure its going to trickle down pretty fast, seems like more profit selling volume at the mid level prices that the top of the line level.

I think mine is a hair slow to move down the cassette (mainly from the 50t to the 42t) not from any one bend but all of them combined... pretty sure just attempted redo the cabling 3 times now but every time I got some time I went for a ride instead

I haven't seen anyone else comment on this but on my Primer the rear shift housing wanted to migrate into the main frame under the BB so there wasn't enough slack down there, and it would ghost shift during compression sometimes. I ended up replacing housing and I put a ziptie on the housing where it exits the frame under the BB and that kept things in place.

The old piece had a good kink where it enters the chainstay too, pretty sure there's some friction right there bet it would shift smoother if the housing just ran along the top of the chainstay

You can get the wireless der/shifter combo for a grand I think, still too rich for my blood but once that price comes down I will probably try it don't like the internal routing, only gripe tho

 

[Ray Lee]

thank you ERB16, I wasn't sure if it had guides or individual channels for the cabling in the frame that might make it impossible to flip. Will take some of the bend out of the cable and I just think it looks a little cleaner.