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Installing Crown Race

10557 Views 16 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  tigris99
I have heard people using PVC to set a crown race...my question is what size PVC pipe works well on a 1 1/8in steerer?

Most of the DIY stores only have 1in 1.5 or 2 inch sizes and my understanding is that these dimensions are the inside diameter.
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I just use some pvc on the edge, and I tap around. Haven't found the size that goes over the steertube the last I checked.
ahh - got it. I was thinking that people were using the PVC as a direct replacement for the tool - where it meets the top the the race all the way around the steerer.

thanks
They might have been doing that as well.

Just don't make the mistake many do, and that's putting the dropouts on the ground and then hammering from above.
1.25" pvc works every time
You could also get the 1.5 and cut 4 slits 5" up from the bottom of the tube and then take a worm clamp and tighten the PVC tube over the stem.
1 1/4" fits over the steertube just fine. Less than a buck for a couple feet and when the edge gets really beat up just cut off the bad section and you have a brand new tool that should last you a really long time.
1 1/4" :thumbsup:
I had to pull some off the rafters last night after I couldn't find the length I'd cut before... went missing in the move last year.
what would work for a tapered steerer 1/8 to 1.5
what would work for a tapered steerer 1/8 to 1.5
I'm wondering the same thing.
I do this with motorcycle bearing races all the time. You can get a piece of 1" PVC about 2 inches longer than your steerer tube, cut a slit in it from end to end on just one side. That will allow it to expand slightly over the 1 1/8" steerer tube and still fit the race nice and tight. Then just take a small hammer and lightly tap on the race until it goes home.

Wayne
I've been using 1 1/4 PVC as well. I made a 10" in piece from scrap to cover all steerer tubes. The scrap I had already had a coupler glued on so at the top it's double strong in the evet I need a hammer. I've put 60 to 80 forks over the past few years on with the same piece. I fing that sliding it up an down by hand without a hammer works well 90% of the time, the other 10%, a good wack takes care of the nasty ones.
what ever you're using I suggest turning the fork upside down so that the PVC is the part resting on the ground and then grab the fork and hammer it against the PVC (make sure the PVC is long enough!). Magnesium lowers are fairly strong but you could crack the dropouts if the fork is resting on them when you hammer
what would work for a tapered steerer 1/8 to 1.5
Some roll papers have a core, kind of cardboard tube works great.. guess you could flatten some cardboard and roll it up too.
cool
1 1/4" fits over the steertube just fine. Less than a buck for a couple feet and when the edge gets really beat up just cut off the bad section and you have a brand new tool that should last you a really long time.
Probably should have read this prior to changing my headset but my way worked well. Install headset, put forks in frame and used a spare stem cap instead of my good one. Oh and small amount of grease on the steerer. If PVC is enough ill grab a piece for the next time.
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