I've been trying to get my rear shift action dialed in for the past month but nothing seems to be making any difference. I've trimmed the housing so that there are no stiffening wires protruding beyond the plastic sheath, and I've cleaned a re-lubed the shift cable. I've also had a shop guy look at it and despite his twenty minutes of effort there’s not much difference. I can either tune the rear derailleur for the smaller cogs or the larger cogs but it will not shift through the entire rear cassette without going into constant ghost shifting at either the smaller or larger cog regions. It seems as if my shifter isn't moving the derailleur sufficiently far with each click. For example, if I set my rear derailleur so that it is dialed in on the smallest cog, I can see that with each shift to a larger cog, the derailleur tends to get closer and closer to the previous cog until it begins to ghost shift down to the previous smaller cog. Is there anyway to increase the amount which the derailleur moves on each indexed shift or is that a non-adjustable factor on XTR components? Any help or suggestions would be welcome.
#$%*ing derailleur
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double check your hanger, sounds like there is a slight bend in it......
one of mine is doing the exact same thing, and my hanger is slightly bent.....
from the sound of your description, it should be bent outward....
one of mine is doing the exact same thing, and my hanger is slightly bent.....
from the sound of your description, it should be bent outward....
hehe, i worked on a bike yesterday at the shop and about 2 min I wasn't getting it to work right and I stopped and counted the gears...looked at the shifter, and then the derailer. 9spd shifter and cassette, 8spd derailer...heh...
Anyhow, some suggestions; proper chain length may help, if it's too tight or slack it may interfear with the gears moving. Cables and housing, friction in the cables will keep the derailer from moving in the proper incriment when you shift. There's some good lubes these days that you can use on the cables, and these help. Particularly bad areas are the derailer-cable loop and any bend that is over 90 degrees, any dirt or decay that gets in here really messes with the shifting. Make sure your cassette lockring is tight (and the hub while you are at it). Lastly, old shifters can be problamatic, especially old SRAM shifters, as they just get real sloppy after a while. Check for a bent hanger and even the derailer itself can get bent...
Anyhow, some suggestions; proper chain length may help, if it's too tight or slack it may interfear with the gears moving. Cables and housing, friction in the cables will keep the derailer from moving in the proper incriment when you shift. There's some good lubes these days that you can use on the cables, and these help. Particularly bad areas are the derailer-cable loop and any bend that is over 90 degrees, any dirt or decay that gets in here really messes with the shifting. Make sure your cassette lockring is tight (and the hub while you are at it). Lastly, old shifters can be problamatic, especially old SRAM shifters, as they just get real sloppy after a while. Check for a bent hanger and even the derailer itself can get bent...
Check your cable bolt.
This is probably going to sound silly and trivial, but check which side of your cable fixing bolt on the rear deraileur that your cable is clamped on. It should be routed on the bottom side of the bolt, there is a notch in the washer that holds the cable down, the cable should be on that side. This may sound like nothing big, but once upon a time, I was having the problem that you describe. I figured out I had been dumb, and put the cable in on the wrong side of the bolt. Aparently it changes how much cable is pulled, enough to throw everything off.
This is probably going to sound silly and trivial, but check which side of your cable fixing bolt on the rear deraileur that your cable is clamped on. It should be routed on the bottom side of the bolt, there is a notch in the washer that holds the cable down, the cable should be on that side. This may sound like nothing big, but once upon a time, I was having the problem that you describe. I figured out I had been dumb, and put the cable in on the wrong side of the bolt. Aparently it changes how much cable is pulled, enough to throw everything off.
hello...anyone busted a truative hussfelt crank?
hi... i have a problem. i havent used these forum things before but, well, hear me out.
i have a hussfelt crank from which the pedal insert comes out when trying to remove the pedal. i have tried everything, including heat to remove it. i now resign to needing a new one. where do i go to find someone who has one in a busted [email protected] truative (1xjoke, really!) dont sell spares!
please help
hi... i have a problem. i havent used these forum things before but, well, hear me out.
i have a hussfelt crank from which the pedal insert comes out when trying to remove the pedal. i have tried everything, including heat to remove it. i now resign to needing a new one. where do i go to find someone who has one in a busted [email protected] truative (1xjoke, really!) dont sell spares!
please help
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3,172 Posts
I rode Monarch Crest a month or so back with some "inexperienced" friends of mine. After mile or so one of their bikes was making some pretty awful noises, so we stopped so I could check it out. He had a 8 speed chain on a 9 cassette. Sheesh.Jm. said:
This was just before my other "inexperienced" friend showed me the big hole in his tire that he had plugged with a nutra-grain wrapper. Sometimes being a mechanic sucks.
Anyway: I recommend you give the new SRAM X-9/7 shifters and deraillers a try. Besides being much less expensive than Shimano, they're very tolerant of mis-adjustment, dirty cables, and bent hangers. In short, everything the home mechanic could ever dream of.
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