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In Praise of SRAM DUB

5003 Views 7 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Cleared2land
I'm building a new bike. It has a 73mm BSA threaded bottom bracket for which I bought a used SRAM Eagle XO1 DUB crank. I paid 42 bucks for the BSA DUB bottom bracket for this frame and it fits well and looks very well-made. I like the crank so much that I've decided to spring for a new XO1 crank for this bike and put the one I just bought on my old 2019 Stumpjumper FSR, itself a very nice bike.

But...oh noes..the Stumpjumper has a a PF30 bottom bracket! In any other situation I'd gnash my teeth and curse the cycling gods and their fickle and many-headed standards. In this case, however, all I have to do is buy a PF30 DUB bottom bracket and the problem is solved. The stumpy is four years old and is probably due for a new bottom bracket anyway.

So DUB, after thinking about it, is not actually a new standard. I could have run my old SRAM GXP XX1 crankset on the bike with the appropriate boost chainring and actually mounted it on the bike with the threaded bottom bracket from its original bike. Seemed to fit just fine. For DUB, all you have to do is upgrade to one of four flavors of bottom brackets and you are covered. Cranksets are now interchangeable.

I like SRAM products. 1x11 and Eagle may not be sliced bread but it's 1) Hot chicks 2) Sliced bread, and 3) 1x11 and 1 x 12.

I prefer threaded bottom brackets but I have the tools to extract the cups and press in new cups and bearings.
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When the spindles were 30mm, they were also interchangeable. It's just the BB92 stuff that threw a wrench into everything.

Even better, when the spindles were 30mm, they were interchangable with Race Face and Cannondale spindles, so I could mix-and-match and fit a pair of SRAM 30mm spindle crankarms on a 73mm BSA, 170mm fatbike, 190mm fatbike, etc. All I had to do was change the spindle out for the right length.

Now you can't get spindles anymore because Race Face is still 30mm.
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One comment on DUB cranks which is probably not unique entirely for self extracting cranks, but the outer self-extracting cap (outer screw in cap that the inner bolt pushes against to self extract the cranks) can come off. I was swapping cranks to a different bike yesterday and low and behold the cap is gone so I have to buy the $18 replacement before I can get the cranks off. I plan to use some loctite to put the new one on because I don't think that part has any reason to ever be disassembled from the cranks themselves. Just a word of advice to avoid some annoyance, think about making sure that outer cap is tight, or use some loctite to keep it from disappearing on you.
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One comment on DUB cranks which is probably not unique entirely for self extracting cranks, but the outer self-extracting cap (outer screw in cap that the inner bolt pushes against to self extract the cranks) can come off. I was swapping cranks to a different bike yesterday and low and behold the cap is gone so I have to buy the $18 replacement before I can get the cranks off. I plan to use some loctite to put the new one on because I don't think that part has any reason to ever be disassembled from the cranks themselves. Just a word of advice to avoid some annoyance, think about making sure that outer cap is tight, or use some loctite to keep it from disappearing on you.
My wife had that cap go missing after about 2 days on her brand new DH bike this summer. Annoying.
I lost one cap this year and found two on my hometrails, albeit both in the wrong color. So, yeah, these caps need loctite ...
I'm gonna go put locktite on the 3 bikes i own, they all have gxp so pretty much same extracting crank
After mine fell off the second time I decided not to fight it and leave them in the toolbox now
The extractor cup isn't a requirement to remove the cranks.
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