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Grip descending in steep, loose conditions is more important to me than climbing traction. Does anyone have experience doing this?
Yes, I accidentally mounted a tire backwards years ago (15+) and decided to give it a try. Can't remember the model but it was definitely a Maxxis, probably an original high roller. The biggest difference i noticed was slower rolling, I didn't notice major traction differences. Although if its backwards theoretically i would think you get better climbing traction on dirt because the square edge will be digging in when rolling forward and worse braking traction because the ramped edge will be digging in when the wheel is locked and you are moving forwards. But like i said, I didn't notice any traction difference anyway. Although my perception may have been less refined all those years ago. Anyway, i would just tun the tire in its normal orientation.
 

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Cut a breaking sip in the smooth center lugs. Running it backwards isn't going to change the fact that there's no breaking sips on the DHF. In fact you would be braking on the slightly ramped side of the knobs reducing traction. You would slightly increase climbing traction because you'll be using the squared braking edge for climbing. Yep, you would not only be running the DHF assbackwards, you would be reversing what you actually want.
 

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Patch the inside with a tube patch. Avoid pumping the tire up past the high 20's so you don't stress the patch too much. Boots are good to carry incase you have to instal a tube trail side from a cut big enough to cause the tube to push through. I wouldn't use a boot as a permeant tubeless fix. I don't carry boots because you can use a candy bar wrapper, gel wrapper... to keep a tube from pushing through.
 

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Thanks for the replies. Next question can I repair the one centimeter slice in the center of the tread of my new DHR? Someone suggested a tire boot?
Clean the inside and outside of the tire. Get some dental floss or equivalent strength ligature. Use a needle and sew the cut closed. Use the sandpaper to roughen the inside tire surface surrounding the cut. Apply vulcanizing fluid on the surface. Let dry until tacky. Apply tire patch, covering the entire cut from the inside. Use cyanoacrylate glue on the outside of the cut to bond the ligature to the tire rubber.
 

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You'll likely find a 2.5 DHF will brake better in steep loose conditions. 2.8 wants to float instead of dig which will bring on an early lock up and slide on steep loose pitches. Couple that with the DHF's desire to drift quickly from center to shoulder and you've got one big ass tire that can be loose as a goose. Size down to 2.4 DHR and or 2.5 DHF and thank me later.
 

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Thanks for the replies. Next question can I repair the one centimeter slice in the center of the tread of my new DHR? Someone suggested a tire boot?
I've patched a 1cm slice right next to the bead and it held for the life of the tire running tubeless at 29psi. I was always a little sketched out by it but it worked. Just used a standard tube patch kit.
 

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I would not run it backwards— it’ll have worse braking traction.

If you need tons of braking traction for steeps though, I’d recommend the Magic Mary or Maxxis Shorty. They both wipe the floor with both Minion models in terms of maximum traction.
 
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