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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, so I want to use my Shimano Deore crankset(minus the middle and little rings) on my Nashbar X Aluminum build with a Nexus hub. Because the cog is a 22 tooth, I want to use the 42 tooth chainring, but the chainline isn't right unless I move the chainring the the center position. So, I put on a spacer to try it out, but the damn bolt is just spinning and won't tighten down. Clearly, I'm doing something dumb here. Is it not biting because the center chainring is steel and the outer is allow? Is it because of the slight bevel in the bolt hole which isn't there when I swap the outer ring to the middle?:madman:





 

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If you have washers that fit you can try to shim out the bolt a little more to see if that works. You can also use a thin piece of metal like tin or a coke can and drill a hole in it to make a shim just to see if adding a thicker or another spacer would help. If it does than the bolt being too long is your problem and I'd either use smaller bolts or cut the existine bolts down a little with my dremel. Keep in mind riding around with shim on your cranks made from a coke can will look janky, but it will start lots of conversations on the trails.
 

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Fix the Spade said:
Silly question: Are you using a chain ring wrench on the back of the bolt?

http://www.parktool.com/product/chainring-nut-wrench
That things looks handy, but can't you use a wide flathead screwdriver? I also have seen people use a cordless impact wrench just to get the bolt to catch and than proceed to tighten it by hand. If you do that be aware you can easily strip the bolt if not careful and will probaby need a bolt extractor to get it out. Most people get leary when they see a powertool anywhere near their bike as bike components don't need that much force when tightening the bolts.
 

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MoreCowbell82 said:
Unreal... in all my years of biking, I've never seen one.
It's one of those dumb, obscure little tools that you'll never need, until you do...

Outside of shop mechanic's kits I hardly see them either, but they're dead useful. Doubly so now many frames are using chain ring bolts for the dropouts.

monstertiki said:
but can't you use a wide flathead screwdriver?.
You can, but this fits the bolts perfectly and makes life easier.
 

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You can get those tools for very cheap from a place like Price Point. Or you can make one yourself.

In 4 years of owning one and probably 20 bike rebuilds/overhauls, I don't think I've used mine once. A finger usually does the trick until the nut can get enough purchase on the crank to hold itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also, the odd thing is, when the middle ring is in place in stock form, the bolt snugs up nicely... but to test it, I tried reversing the direction of the bolt, and again, slips.

Can't wait for that tool to arrive!
 

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My other ride is your mom
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I also would not rule out the possiblity that your bolts are too long (male end)....I recently pulled some bolts from an XTR and tried swapping them onto a SLX thinking all bolts are alike.....silly me.....

I had the same problem as you....so I pulled out my caliper and measured the inside width from back of the bolt to the front of the bolt.....XTR allows for a wider stack between the bolt and the "nut" (female part of the setup). All other standard bolts are built for a narrower stack. The XTR bolt set screws down onto an internal stop on the inside of the female piece....whereas other bolt sets are open ended and allow for more range of adjustment/tightening.

One of those things you don't think about until you're bashing your head against your crank trying to figure out what is going on.
 

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and the bolts are also lose because they connect the 3rd ring and the 2nd ring. the first ring has its own set of bolts on the inside that are 64mm apart. the outer is 104mm.. i have the same crankset on my jamis xam I 09...but i got Bash 22/34 used the same bolts no problem.
 
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