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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for some ideas for a nice, light but strong for xc ridding, front wheel. :D I got two wheels for mine, a stock frt hub with Mavic 819 rims (32 spoke), and a Bontrager Race Lite that has a 28 hole Bontrager frt hub, and Bontrager rim. Both are nice but not light.
Any suggestions, please? Also some ideas/suggestions for a XC rear wheel. For rears I have the WTB Lazerlite hub and Mavic 819 and a Bontrager Race XLite; all wheels are tubeless.
I weigh 200lbs but don't do hucking, high jumps, crazy drop offs, (Hell I'm 62)!!:eekster: Just ride trails and do some racing but would like to lighten my ride. (Maverick Durance; DUC; xtr M960 crank, XTR dual control lever,XTR Rapidrize, XT brakes, speedball, Fizik Aliante XM, M770 pedals, Really pretty Blue Jagwire cables, hoses.
Other than switch the Speedball wheels are my next bet. Been using Conti MtnKings Protection and WTB Wierwolfs, UST.
ANY help is certainly apreciated, thanks!!:thumbsup:
 

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The Maverick front hub will prevent you from building a truly light wheel. If your 819 wheel is built with 14/15 butted spokes and alloy nipples it is pretty light (that's what I have in front).
Your weight rules out 14/16 butted spokes so the only way I think you could lose significant weight is by switching to a NoTubes 355 rim. It'll drop about 95 grams but is a little flexier. They also make a re-enforced 355 called the Arch that splits the weight and flex differences.
As for the rear: American Classic hub, 32 14/15 spokes, alloy nips, 355 rim, 790 grams.
I weigh 30 lbs less than you but ride a lot harder and my wheels are holding up fine.
 

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I am using Stans arch's on front and back for my XC setup. Using non-tubless tires with stands goo to seal them up. King hubs on front and rear. I built these wheels to replace my 819's. The new wheelset is definatly lighter.

What about the i9's. Not sure about the weight but man they are nice to look at.
 

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I9s, meh. No lighter than a lot of conventional setups. Possibly stiffer but much if you are using a light rim. Basically you pay A LOT for a small increase in stiffness, cool looks, and major hassles if you break a spoke. I'd go for an American Classic hubs with Ti spokes or butted steel over I9.
 

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Note: all quoted weights are from memory...

I am running a Bontragger Race X lite 28 holes rim (same as the Race Lite I believe) rim (430g), on a Bontragger Maverick hub (250g), Sapim CX-Ray spokes with DT-Swiss allow nipples. Without the Bontragger rim strip I think my front wheel is around 820g (add maybe 50g for the strip).

For the rear I'm running the same setup but with a DT-Swiss 240 hub (interestingly enough the rear wheel weight is almost identical to the front wheel if I recall correctly at around 820g).

My riding style / weight is very close to what you describe. That wheel has been very reliable (3000+ miles) and haven't needed any truing in ages. I am not good enough to say whether it's flexy (most of the flex I feel comes from the tire - fat tire, low pressure).

It's probably easier to shave weight by going to a lighter weight tire, especially with your riding style. I've been using the Bontraggers Tubeless Ready in the past and have been relatively happy with them (don't use their sealant... make your own!). Now I am running the Specialized Eskar S-WORKS 2Bliss Tire 2.3 and I like them (650g average per tire).

Some place you can shave weight easily (if not cheaply!) are:
- Pedals (CrankBrother dual or triple Ti - you can easily save 150 g there)
- Handlebars (MonkeyLite SL carbon)
- Seat post (Easton carbon)
- Cassette (maybe, depending on what you are running XTR vs XT is only 20g different I think)
- Grips (Bontragger Race X-Lite @ 24g vs 120+g for clamp on)


After that... it gets really expensive and reliability suffers.
 

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Stans Flow + Hope Pro II 20mm + Sapim Cx-Ray homemade, NoTubes sealeant. Light and strong enough for enduro.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
GREAT IDEAS, THANKLS TO ALL!! Nice ride Alpa!! Has anyone used Alex XCRPro rims? I have afriend (also a non-hucker) and they are super nice and light!! Thinking about using my Bontager hubs and building with the Alex XCR Pro rims (300gm). Any thoughts out there, and thanks again!!
 

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sxotty said:
Denis how do you make your sealant? If you don't mind.
There are a bunch or recipes on mtbr.com (check out the wheels / tires forum).

Here is what I used:

1 part slime (car / truck tire sealant from any automotive store - green goo!)
1 part liquid latex (from a hobby / crafts store - Got mine at Michael's)
1 part automotive antifreeze (Glycol is the key ingredient here)
2 parts water (from you local tap ;) )
I added some glitter (from a hobby / crafts store) to make my daughter happy... Actually some people claim that it helps fill bigger puncture holes, some folks have even experimented with different colors (which supposedely have different sizes) - I kid you not!

The stuff will last forever in a sealed container. So my recommendation is to make a few small batches experimenting with various mixes and see what works with you. When you have something you like, you can make a couple of liters that will last you a good while.

Some lightweight tubeless tires will definitively NOT hold pressure without the sealant. Their sidewalls are built really thin and porous. When you fill them up with sealant and pressurize them you'll see the sealant weeping through the sidewall and after a day or two the tire will hold pressure fine (I've had this experience with the Specialized S-Works and some of the Bontragger). This is not the case with the UST tubeless tires which are heavier and are spec-ed to run without sealant.

Hope this helps.

Denis
 

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Is this better than Stans? I always just use that and it is plenty cheap (I think it is latex). Normally I run tubeless tires, but they benefit too IMO b/c thorns don't pop 'em and even they ometimes have leaky sidewalls. (I broke and dislocated thumb yesterday so typing may be weird)
 

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sxotty said:
Is this better than Stans? I always just use that and it is plenty cheap (I think it is latex). Normally I run tubeless tires, but they benefit too IMO b/c thorns don't pop 'em and even they ometimes have leaky sidewalls. (I broke and dislocated thumb yesterday so typing may be weird)
It's definitively cheaper than Stan's and I've found it to be better (doesn't dry out as fast).
 

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