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May or may not be related, but I run Hadleys with floating Hope rotors... On both 183 and 203s I have to file the adapter for clearance at the rotor rivets. Takes about 5 min with a file to take about 1.5mm off the one of the thicker parts...

This seems to becoming a more and more common issue. Something with the post mount standard and tollerance stacking. There were a few posts about 15mm fox forks having issues with king hubs..rotors actually contacting the fork.

I am a little surprise that this has not been better addressed as it always seems like there is PLENTY of caliper adjustment to move the posts and rotor further apart. There is no reason that 'standard' decigns put the rotor and fork leg/post so close.
 

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crux said:
Anyone running I9 wheels with Hope floating rotors? Heard there could be an interference issue. with the bolts rubbing the shock leg. Anyone know first hand?
I am running this set-up.

I had to flat file a little material off the lower fork post mount where it was contacting the rivet that holds the rotor braking surface to the inner Al carrier.

This was a Fox Vanilla fork

:thumbsup:
 

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Look at the formula R1 floating rotors too. Their rivets are flush. They only come in 160 and 180 right now. They are also 1.7 mm thick. If you are looking for something beefy, they arent it.
 

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davep said:
May or may not be related, but I run Hadleys with floating Hope rotors... On both 183 and 203s I have to file the adapter for clearance at the rotor rivets. Takes about 5 min with a file to take about 1.5mm off the one of the thicker parts...

This seems to becoming a more and more common issue. Something with the post mount standard and tollerance stacking. There were a few posts about 15mm fox forks having issues with king hubs..rotors actually contacting the fork.

I am a little surprise that this has not been better addressed as it always seems like there is PLENTY of caliper adjustment to move the posts and rotor further apart. There is no reason that 'standard' decigns put the rotor and fork leg/post so close.
Can you post a photo of your handy work?
I am contemplating Hope floating rotors with Hadley + 2010 Boxxer.

Thanks.
 

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I have hopes on my i9s and have not had any issues. i am running 160s on a wb rock solid fork.
 

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running my I9 with floating rotor, I had an issue with my Marz AM1 & 55 forks which is rubbing my PM adaptor (183mm). I filed a adapter (less than 0.3mm) and moved the adaptor outwards and that's it. No issues with a Marz 66 and a RS Lyric.
 

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This issue I think is due to the fork, not the rotor or wheel. The only issues I recall reading of were from people with Fox forks. I have I9 ultralight and hope 6" floaters - there are no issues at all on my Reba forks.
 

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Toddmac1 said:
Can you post a photo of your handy work?
I am contemplating Hope floating rotors with Hadley + 2010 Boxxer.

Thanks.
Sorry, I did not see this earlier. Pics are so-so as they were taken in the garage..but these should give you some idea of what is going on.

Here is the 183 adapter that I just took off, you can see where one end needed to be made less 'wide' as the metal is silver rather than black where I filed. You can also see where the outer edge of the rotor touched the adapter a few times:


Here is the same adapter from a different angle, Should give you an idea of the amount of material removed:


now the 203 mm adapter with a similar mod, as you can see, the adapters are narrower in the 'middle' and wider at the mount ends:



Here you can see where the rivets on the rotor sweep past the adapter. It has plenty of clearance where the rivets sweep past the middle of the adapter, it is only an issue if the rivets sweep right over the wider mount end:



Finally a pic looking down into the rotor/mount gap. The rivet is passing right over the place with the least clearance...at this point that is right about a 1mm gap.


In my case, the rubing was worse when I would turn hard. The hub/bearings/fork flex just a tiny amount and it would make noise when leaned one way, but not the other..

Also, regarding Hadley hubs. There is a slight adjustment that can be done to shift the hub to one side or the other (maybe 1/2mm) to gain just a bit more clearance. This is due to the design of the hub as the inner bearing stops are not on the hub shell, rather the axle. By threading in one 'dust cap' (this is actually how you adjust Hadley bearing preload) in all the way, and the other out...you are able to shift the hub a small amount.
 
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