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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for a setup that will give me a single ring in the rear and still use my 22-32-44 tooth rings up front.

What options do I have? What would be a good conversion for my rear without buying a new hub? I'm currently using 8spd.

What would I have to use as a tensioner in the rear? Make my own?

I'm sick of deraileurs on technical stunts where I have to pedal kick 5-6ft off a skinny and having the thing be in the wrong gear or ghost shift, making me crash. :(

Please help me get rid of that extra weight in the rear!
 

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Seem too complicated to me...

MicroHuck said:
I'm looking for a setup that will give me a single ring in the rear and still use my 22-32-44 tooth rings up front.

What options do I have? What would be a good conversion for my rear without buying a new hub? I'm currently using 8spd.

What would I have to use as a tensioner in the rear? Make my own?

I'm sick of deraileurs on technical stunts where I have to pedal kick 5-6ft off a skinny and having the thing be in the wrong gear or ghost shift, making me crash. :(

Please help me get rid of that extra weight in the rear!
It would be much easier to drop the small and big ring in front. The set up you're looking for seems complicated and without a rear DR to help align the chain, the first time you pedal kicked, you'd likely throw your chain and take a tremendous header in to the ground. Your dentist would be happy, but I suspect it would suck for you.

Ken
 

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MicroHuck said:
I'm looking for a setup that will give me a single ring in the rear and still use my 22-32-44 tooth rings up front.

What options do I have? What would be a good conversion for my rear without buying a new hub? I'm currently using 8spd.

What would I have to use as a tensioner in the rear? Make my own?

I'm sick of deraileurs on technical stunts where I have to pedal kick 5-6ft off a skinny and having the thing be in the wrong gear or ghost shift, making me crash. :(

Please help me get rid of that extra weight in the rear!
I've been riding a three speed for 18 months now with no problems. I got the idea after I taco'd the rear wheel on my geared bike just before a long climbing session. I improvised for the climb and borrowed the rear wheel off my ss. I just left the rear der in the proper position and it shifted perfectly on the front for the entire ride.

After that I build up a great 33 lb three speed freeride hard tail.

I have a standard ss rear hub and freewheel, and run a XT rear der with no shifter and no cable. I just used the high/low limits to permanently set the position of the rear der centered on the gear.

I'm running 22, 32, 44 in the front, and 22 in the back. With the heavy bike and 2.4 rubber, the 1:1 gearing so far has no limitations on climbing, but with the added advantage of being able to get some good speed on the flats and the downhill since I have a big gear to jump into when needed.

I'm running my chain fairly short so when it's in the big ring, the rear der is pretty stretched out. This way my chain slap is very minimal. Plus I don't care about over-taxing the spring in the der since it's always locked into one gear position. After 18 months of hammering, I have not had to make any additional adjustments with the chain line. Works great.

Since then I do 70% of my riding on the three speed (just because it's so damn fun with the 130mm fork up front), and 25% on my SS. I only ride my geared bike 4 to 6 times per year.

I've also seen one person out on the trail with a single 34 tooth on the front, and 8 speed 11-28 on the rear, also running only one shifter.

Bikes are just plain fun and there are all kinds of innovative options.

I can post some pics for you as soon as I figure out how to post them in this thread. (a little computer challenged sometimes :D )
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
JamR said:
I've been riding a three speed for 18 months now with no problems. I got the idea after I taco'd the rear wheel on my geared bike just before a long climbing session. I improvised for the climb and borrowed the rear wheel off my ss. I just left the rear der in the proper position and it shifted perfectly on the front for the entire ride.

After that I build up a great 33 lb three speed freeride hard tail.

I have a standard ss rear hub and freewheel, and run a XT rear der with no shifter and no cable. I just used the high/low limits to permanently set the position of the rear der centered on the gear.

I'm running 22, 32, 44 in the front, and 22 in the back. With the heavy bike and 2.4 rubber, the 1:1 gearing so far has no limitations on climbing, but with the added advantage of being able to get some good speed on the flats and the downhill since I have a big gear to jump into when needed.

I'm running my chain fairly short so when it's in the big ring, the rear der is pretty stretched out. This way my chain slap is very minimal. Plus I don't care about over-taxing the spring in the der since it's always locked into one gear position. After 18 months of hammering, I have not had to make any additional adjustments with the chain line. Works great.

Since then I do 70% of my riding on the three speed (just because it's so damn fun with the 130mm fork up front), and 25% on my SS. I only ride my geared bike 4 to 6 times per year.

I've also seen one person out on the trail with a single 34 tooth on the front, and 8 speed 11-28 on the rear, also running only one shifter.

Bikes are just plain fun and there are all kinds of innovative options.

I can post some pics for you as soon as I figure out how to post them in this thread. (a little computer challenged sometimes :D )
Sounds good to me! I don't understand why people think this would be complicated. I never thought about the fact that I can get rid of the shifter and the rest of the casssette cogs to save weight while still keeping the derailleur
 

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44:32:22
:
22:16:11

You could keep the middle ring, and create a 3spd cassette, something like 11-16-22, the 16 being a burly cheap Shimano DX cog, you'll use that mose anyway. Lose the front derailer, or fix it into position, most likely the latter, or replace it with a guide of some sort.
rear shits are nicer.
I have a bit close spaced 42/13-16-21 on my commuter MTB. the 13t for tailwind and theoretical DH's, the 16 for general riding, and the 21t for offroading. I still have to put back on the FD for those pesky chain drops, but overall the setup rocks. The option to shift, but riding like singlespeeder that picked the correct gear for what he's doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
JamR said:
Here's some pics of my three speed. Has performed fantastic for 18 months with no problems.

Hope this helps.
Cool! I'm gonna get one of those single speed cassettes off jensonusa.com.

BTW, nice bike! How does it feel with that much fork on it?

Have you ever had the chain come off the rear cog?
 

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MicroHuck said:
Cool! I'm gonna get one of those single speed cassettes off jensonusa.com.

BTW, nice bike! How does it feel with that much fork on it?

Have you ever had the chain come off the rear cog?
The fork took a little getting used to, since before this one I never had anything much over 80mm, plus the weight of the front end really threw me off for a while. Did qiute a few unplanned nose-wheelies and a few face-plants on jumps until I got the hang of it.

It's defnitely a sweet bike coming downhill and easy on the drops.

In over a year and a half, it's never skipped a gear climbing and has never dropped the chain. Locking the rear der in with the limit screws is a perfect chain tensioner that allows for the three front rings. The cage moves forwards and back, but the der never moves left or right out of the chain-line position.

For me it's a perfect mix. 1:1 for easy climbing (even on the technical stuff), and a big ring for speed and reduced chain slap on the downhill.
 

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I agree that there are alot of different configurations that will work, and the 3spd bike sounds quite versatile in theroy. For that matter, why not multiply your options by 8 or 9 and go with 24 or 27 spd? My personal comprimise is to have a 16t and 18t rear cog side by side in the rear that are easily switched by moving the chain. And I'm waiting for the first true SS diehard to tell me I'm not really "true SS"!
 

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Cranman said:
I agree that there are alot of different configurations that will work, and the 3spd bike sounds quite versatile in theroy. For that matter, why not multiply your options by 8 or 9 and go with 24 or 27 spd? My personal comprimise is to have a 16t and 18t rear cog side by side in the rear that are easily switched by moving the chain. And I'm waiting for the first true SS diehard to tell me I'm not really "true SS"!
I thought about toying with what you just posted. When I was recently looking at the ENO Freewheel website, I noticed a freewheel with 2 gears and am considering putting that on my 1988 Yo Eddy I'm currently re-building as a rigid ss.

I'm still pondering if I would switch the chain manually, or set the bike up with an old-school thumb shifter and short cage rear der set to switch between the two gears.

Then I would have a 1 speed, 2 speed, and 3 speed bikes in the stable.

Working on bikes and experimenting with components and configurations is half the fun for me.
 

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The 2 rear cogs side by side works great so far and it takes about 1 minuite to flip the bike over, release the QR (w/tug!) move the chain over, re-adjust the chain, and tighten the QR. Only drawback is that I need a 10mm wrench and 5mm? allen to reset the tug since I found out a tug *was* really a necessity with a QR.
 

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Cranman said:
The 2 rear cogs side by side works great so far and it takes about 1 minuite to flip the bike over, release the QR (w/tug!) move the chain over, re-adjust the chain, and tighten the QR. Only drawback is that I need a 10mm wrench and 5mm? allen to reset the tug since I found out a tug *was* really a necessity with a QR.
Thanks for the info. When I saw the two cog freewheel on the web-site, I was immediately interested, and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it. I'm going to take stock of all the components I need for my current re-build this weekend and order up all the parts next week. I will definitely be including the ENO Eccentric Axle Hub, and the dual Freewheel.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Two or three rings in the rear sounds good combined with a super lightweight derailleur.

Is it possible to go with a 11-20-32 setup or are the jumps too much for a derailleur?

I would like that, because then I could remove my front 44 tooth ring and replace it with a bash guard.

I would then have a nice and simple rear cassette that get's me where I want quickly. I rarely ever use anything other than the 11-20-32 rings anyways.

IMO, Simple = better

Too bad there isn't any way to have single speed in the rear and 4-5 rings up front. My main priority is to try and get my rear end of my hardtail lighter for jumping.
 
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